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Old February 12th, 2020, 09:48 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Low Oil Pressure

I've looked through threads and did not see any recent info . I have a 2007 gs spyder , the low oil pressure light came on . Does anyone have any experience trouble shooting ? Is there a way to tell if it's a sensor or oil pump ? Car idles fine ... do not want to drive it until I get this issue fixed . Thanks !
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Old February 12th, 2020, 11:49 AM   #2 (permalink)
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An oil pressure sensor/tester is how you test properly.

If you want to throw money at the problem, step 1 is oil pressure switch, then pickup tube, then pump, then bearings. Not at all the right way
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Old February 22nd, 2020, 10:58 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Update. I replaced the oil sending unit aka oil pressure sensor. That was a major pita to get to. Ordered the part online , it did not look 100% identical 98% maybe .It was just a tiny bit longer. I noticed the oil filter ( a K&N ) was a bit narrower than the normal Purolator or Mobil 1 that I had been using . My plan was to drop the oil pan and inspect that also but after seeing the location and what was involved.. time did not allow that. After I installed the part and added oil , I removed battery leads and the car sat an hour or so until I was able to start it ( had other things to do ). At start , no low oil pressure light. Drove an hour or less , no light . Get up next day , drive to work , no light . Come to a stop about 20 minutes of driving.. rpms drop to normal idle .. Light comes on . Just tap the gas light goes out .. car drops idle .. Light goes on . Get to work check oil level , might be a bit lower than perfect. Add maybe 3 or 4 oz of oil .. start car drive home .. no light . Drove to and from work yesterday , no light . This is weird ! Oil couldnt be that low , maybe a weak connection or just a fluke ?
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Old February 22nd, 2020, 12:36 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Check your oil pressure. The oil pressure switch in the engine just means you have more than 5psi. It's not a sensor beyond that, and like you said, it could be an electrical issue

Throwing parts at it isn't the fix
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Old February 24th, 2020, 02:47 AM   #5 (permalink)
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I'm guessing you are saying the sensor is reading 5lbs or less? Other than adding a 2nd pressure gauge.. I am not sure how that is supposed to be done? I am not exactly a rookie and what I have dealt with in the past is trying cheapest parts 1st usually works . I realise throwing parts isn't always a fix... unless the parts being thrown fix the issue .
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Old February 24th, 2020, 08:44 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Go to any Autoparts store with a tool loan service
Borrow an oil pressure tester.

Then you'll have known right away if your pressure was actually low or if it was a bad switch
So that would have been cheaper already.
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Old February 24th, 2020, 11:28 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Sabertooth^2 View Post
Go to any Autoparts store with a tool loan service
Borrow an oil pressure tester.

Then you'll have known right away if your pressure was actually low or if it was a bad switch
So that would have been cheaper already.


Lol I did that for both of my GS the first one had terrible oil pressure after using the rent a tool from autozone due to my oil pressure light coming on and obnoxious valve ticking and while idling when I removed my oil cap the top of my engine just looked so damn bare with no oil to be honest.... long story short my pick up tube was not clogged my sensors did not fix it so I changed my oil pump along with the timing belt/water pump because why not while Iím down there..... and she sounds and works amazing ever since

Now my other GS whose oil pressure light came on almost simultaneously with the other did not even need ANY PARTS TO FIX THE LIGHT lol my car coming from up north had very bad rust and turns out the 1 connection to the oil pressure switch on the back of the block had corroded straight through the connections wire so when I went to check of the switch was loose or what not the wire literally just snapped in half and feel off so all I needed to do was find healthy wire with good connection and connect it to the switch and all is fine


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Old February 24th, 2020, 12:12 PM   #8 (permalink)
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On your brand new pump, have you measured your hot idle pressure?
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Old February 24th, 2020, 01:09 PM   #9 (permalink)
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On your brand new pump, have you measured your hot idle pressure?


That is new information to me bro..... so no I have not

What is that?


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Old February 24th, 2020, 03:15 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I'm just curious what your oil pressure is, at idle, when the engine is fully warmed up.

I've read many things about what the proper oil pressure is, but have never tested it with a brand new pump myself, so don't have any concrete data to support that 8psi is proper hot idle temperature (seems to be 8psi on 4G63, and 4G64, and I see that on mine at idle, but my pump has 100k miles on an otherwise brand new engine)
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Old February 24th, 2020, 06:59 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Sabertooth^2 View Post
I'm just curious what your oil pressure is, at idle, when the engine is fully warmed up.

I've read many things about what the proper oil pressure is, but have never tested it with a brand new pump myself, so don't have any concrete data to support that 8psi is proper hot idle temperature (seems to be 8psi on 4G63, and 4G64, and I see that on mine at idle, but my pump has 100k miles on an otherwise brand new engine)
Proper PSI once warmed up is ~8psi compared to the 5psi+ required to make the stock dash dummy light sensor happy correct?
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Old February 24th, 2020, 10:02 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sabertooth^2 View Post
I'm just curious what your oil pressure is, at idle, when the engine is fully warmed up.

I've read many things about what the proper oil pressure is, but have never tested it with a brand new pump myself, so don't have any concrete data to support that 8psi is proper hot idle temperature (seems to be 8psi on 4G63, and 4G64, and I see that on mine at idle, but my pump has 100k miles on an otherwise brand new engine)


Well my new pump has about 5-10K on it so Iíll definitely check out the oil pressure on it and let you know


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Old February 24th, 2020, 10:15 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Proper PSI once warmed up is ~8psi compared to the 5psi+ required to make the stock dash dummy light sensor happy correct?
8psi is my finding, and matches my 100k mile pump. But I'm curious about a fresh pump. Unfortunately, it'll only tell half the story again, because of bearing wear lowering oil pressure. But it's still useful info for approximating normalities
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Old March 1st, 2020, 11:39 AM   #14 (permalink)
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How did you know if your tube was clogged ? Thanks
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Old March 1st, 2020, 05:28 PM   #15 (permalink)
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I had step by step instructions written out for a bunch of stuff and scenarios, but no.

Go to the autoparts store, and borrow the tool. Then come back and tell us what your PSI is at idle, 2000, 3000, and 4000rpm, and tell us what the oil temperature was like when tested (roughly, at least let us know if it was just started, or you had been driving just long enough for full coolant temperature, or if you drove it longer after that before testing)


Throwing parts at the situation is the worst option, especially considering we literally don't know if you even have low pressure, and if so, in what situations.
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Old March 19th, 2020, 11:31 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Does the oil pressure light come on when you idle or stop? Or do you have 500 rpm at idle. If so could be that your throttle or aic is clogged with carbon and needs to be cleaned. I had the issue of my oil pressure light constantly coming on from low idle rpms. And cleaning the trottle body out with it. Don't know if it might help your issue, but its something easy to try, and could be beneficial over all.
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Old March 20th, 2020, 12:03 PM   #17 (permalink)
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This is a trainwreck of a post. The guy who posted it didn't want advice unless it was what he wanted to hear. He's only gonna do what he had in his mind before he came here, and only came here to support his ego.

I'd welcome him to prove me wrong, but having already had step by step instructions, and refusing to even check if he actually HAS low pressure, it's iffy.
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Old March 23rd, 2020, 04:33 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Sorry im late. One of the reasons why the previous owner sold me his GS and "failed to mentioned" was that the oil light would turn on every now and then. I started small as I wasnt even a rookie handling a wrench and threw in a Oil Sending Unit. Cheap part and it got fixed. Now im not saying that's your problem but Saber laid out a very good way to check oil pressure and I would try his method.
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Old March 23rd, 2020, 04:59 PM   #19 (permalink)
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He already changed that, and it wasn't the fix. He also changed it before even testing it, which would cost him only the gas to drive to and from the autoparts store, who would have given him the tool to borrow for free.
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Old March 23rd, 2020, 05:07 PM   #20 (permalink)
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He already changed that, and it wasn't the fix. He also changed it before even testing it, which would cost him only the gas to drive to and from the autoparts store, who would have given him the tool to borrow for free.

I guess I got lucky or maybe the 5-30 oil I use is hiding something that will hurt on the long run? I'll try that oil pressure tester. Also I was planning on one of the three gauge for the column to be oil pressure. Air fuel ratio and what would you suggest for the third?
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Old March 23rd, 2020, 08:44 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Quote:
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He already changed that, and it wasn't the fix. He also changed it before even testing it, which would cost him only the gas to drive to and from the autoparts store, who would have given him the tool to borrow for free.

I guess I got lucky or maybe the 5-30 oil I use is hiding something that will hurt on the long run? I'll try that oil pressure tester. Also I was planning on one of the three gauge for the column to be oil pressure. Air fuel ratio and what would you suggest for the third?
On a non boosted car? Air fuel gauge for sure, then oil pressure, then oil temp
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Old March 23rd, 2020, 10:19 PM   #22 (permalink)
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^Heh, that's my pillar setup! Literally in order, top to bottom, too.

Oil pressure gauges are super important when you have extra oil lines run, or are revving very high, or on a very thick oil, like an SAE50

I don't think you were just lucky though. It's usually a bad pressure switch that causes the problem. Seeing as your light didn't come back, I'd vote it's fixed and running fine now. That 5w-30 oil is also going to prolong your engine's life.
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Old March 23rd, 2020, 11:56 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Haha awesome

Yeah on a boosted car I’d say the order is Boost gauge, air fuel gauge, then oil pressure

On my WRX all I have is a boost gauge but I want to get an AEM air fuel gauge in it

5w30 prolonging life of the engine?
I just did an oil change with 5w20 Castrol Edge lol
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Old March 24th, 2020, 08:10 AM   #24 (permalink)
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My boost controller is my gauge, and it's on the steering column upper trim behind the wheel.

And yeah, thin oil is better fuel economy, and doesn't need as much warm up before you can beat on it. But a thicker oil lubricates better, and covers all the surfaces longer, which is important when you don't have oil sprayers
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Old March 24th, 2020, 09:30 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Excellent! Glad im on the right path helping my 4G last a long time.
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