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Old March 16th, 2020, 05:59 PM   #41 (permalink)
140whp+15.72%= 162hp
 
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So the kit matches oem quality or do you have a better brand in mind I could try?
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Old March 17th, 2020, 12:52 AM   #42 (permalink)
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I would feel less confident with that than OEM. OEM typically uses much more reputable brands. I'd look for a better specific one for you, but lack the signal strength right now to do much
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Old March 18th, 2020, 11:52 AM   #43 (permalink)
140whp+15.72%= 162hp
 
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Understood. Back to Hackish. How much is his ECU reflash?
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Old March 18th, 2020, 04:29 PM   #44 (permalink)
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Understood. Back to Hackish. How much is his ECU reflash?
I did it two years ago and it was $350 USD for a non boosted tune
It’s more for boosted tunes

Plus u need a Tactrix Openport 2.0 which is $179
https://www.tactrix.com/index.php?op...ed=1&Itemid=53
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Old March 24th, 2020, 09:34 PM   #45 (permalink)
140whp+15.72%= 162hp
 
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Im looking at that link, then at that open port and for a moment I think I witnessed what the pearly gates look like... Thanks!
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Old March 24th, 2020, 10:56 PM   #46 (permalink)
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Im looking at that link, then at that open port and for a moment I think I witnessed what the pearly gates look like... Thanks!
Can I ask your age?
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Old March 25th, 2020, 12:00 AM   #47 (permalink)
140whp+15.72%= 162hp
 
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~salutes~ 32 my good sir.
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Old March 25th, 2020, 05:48 PM   #48 (permalink)
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Im looking at that link, then at that open port and for a moment I think I witnessed what the pearly gates look like... Thanks!
Can I ask your age?
Why the question? Do i strike you as immature? 😂🤣
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Old March 25th, 2020, 05:56 PM   #49 (permalink)
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Im looking at that link, then at that open port and for a moment I think I witnessed what the pearly gates look like... Thanks!
Can I ask your age?
Why the question? Do i strike you as immature? 😂🤣
Lol honestly I thought you were a 16 year old kid with his first car, and that’s totally ok, we respect everyone here and accept everyone

You just seem really into wanting to boost your car which is fine I just didn’t want to see someone young and inexperienced without a lot of $$ to complete a feat like that to go down that rabbit hole and end up with an incomplete build because they ran out of funds, didn’t know how to do it properly, etc

But we’re always here to help bro

I’m just gonna tell you that while our car can be boosted and some have, its gonna cost like $3,000 and require some custom fabrication and welding to make all the parts let alone hook it all up and make it work and properly tune it etc, it’s way harder than even getting a premade turbo kit and slapping it on an old Honda Civic for example

It’ll probably be easier if you wanted a boosted car to just buy a turbo car that was turbo from the factory, that’s what I did; Eclipse is my reliable daily driver with good MPG with minor bolt on mods, my WRX is my turbo from factory toy with a lot of mods

Last edited by pcfreak4; March 25th, 2020 at 06:00 PM.
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Old March 25th, 2020, 06:32 PM   #50 (permalink)
140whp+15.72%= 162hp
 
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Im looking at that link, then at that open port and for a moment I think I witnessed what the pearly gates look like... Thanks!
Can I ask your age?
Why the question? Do i strike you as immature? 😂🤣
Lol honestly I thought you were a 16 year old kid with his first car, and that’s totally ok, we respect everyone here and accept everyone

You just seem really into wanting to boost your car which is fine I just didn’t want to see someone young and inexperienced without a lot of $$ to complete a feat like that to go down that rabbit hole and end up with an incomplete build because they ran out of funds, didn’t know how to do it properly, etc

But we’re always here to help bro

I’m just gonna tell you that while our car can be boosted and some have, its gonna cost like $3,000 and require some custom fabrication and welding to make all the parts let alone hook it all up and make it work and properly tune it etc, it’s way harder than even getting a premade turbo kit and slapping it on an old Honda Civic for example

It’ll probably be easier if you wanted a boosted car to just buy a turbo car that was turbo from the factory, that’s what I did; Eclipse is my reliable daily driver with good MPG with minor bolt on mods, my WRX is my turbo from factory toy with a lot of mods
Honestly... i would end up spending 5-6k for a 2G GST anyways. Im not ready to boost because im learning. And i read around here that if i cant tear down the engine on my own then i shouldnt even go into deeper waters with a turbo. Saber mentioned he's working on a turbo for us GS owners and if he can fabricate a stable set up for bone stock 4G69 engines then i would definately save to buy it. I honestly want my 2nd car to be more family friendly. So my GS is my DD but i only drive it for as long as i get to be home. Being a trucker doesnt leave u with alot of home time. Have you watched that RRE video of that blue 4G GT on the track?
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Old March 25th, 2020, 07:03 PM   #51 (permalink)
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Well my eclipse was wrecked and I got it from Copart insurance auction and fixed it myself

Got my 02 WRX cheap too and fixed it up myself

There’s deals to be had out there with a little DIY elbow grease to get something like an old WRX or something cheap that has some minor required fix up work

I just think putting a turbo on a non turbo car like ours is 1) NOT a diy task or cheap and 2) will highly diminish the reliability of your car as a reliable DD as they are stock
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Old March 25th, 2020, 08:17 PM   #52 (permalink)
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I see your point. That's why i want to know how to pull our engines appart and put it back together. Wether i go turbo or not i want to be able to fix it and not just do what most ppl do because they lack the knowledge. Junk the car or sell it.
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Old March 25th, 2020, 09:33 PM   #53 (permalink)
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I see your point. That's why i want to know how to pull our engines appart and put it back together. Wether i go turbo or not i want to be able to fix it and not just do what most ppl do because they lack the knowledge. Junk the car or sell it.
What mods do u have on your car right now?

Why do you want to pull the engine apart right now? If it’s not knocking or burning oil real bad with blown rings or down on compression then there’s no reason to tear it apart NA without boost once again as these engines are actually very durable and well built, no reason to tear a 4G69 apart unless you’re trying to build it up for more boost, it can even handle moderate boost stock pretty well with proper tuning, naturally aspirated there’s no reason to upgrade its internals IMO; I’d be more worried about the transmissions in these cars holding together than the engine to be honest with you

This 4G69 4 cylinder is the successor to the legendary 4G63 and 4G64 engines from Mitsubishi which are known as some of the best tuning and modifiable and well built engines ever, along with the LS GM (Corvette), EJ Subaru (WRX/STi), RB Nissan (Skyline and Silvia/240SZ), B20 and K20 Honda, and 2JZ Toyota (Supra) engines

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Old March 25th, 2020, 10:23 PM   #54 (permalink)
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Kyle, why do you worry about the transmissions so much? Aside from the GS auto, when have you heard of common issues. You'll definitely wreck the motor in a GS or GT on any of those other transmissions before the trans goes. But, that said, 500hp has been done on a stock GS motor, and 460 on a stock GT motor. Guys have put a 175 shot of nitrous through a GT with an auto and been ok
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Old March 26th, 2020, 06:47 AM   #55 (permalink)
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Kyle, why do you worry about the transmissions so much? Aside from the GS auto, when have you heard of common issues. You'll definitely wreck the motor in a GS or GT on any of those other transmissions before the trans goes. But, that said, 500hp has been done on a stock GS motor, and 460 on a stock GT motor. Guys have put a 175 shot of nitrous through a GT with an auto and been ok
I have a GS auto lol

I’ve auto heard of people with the manuals that the shift bearings go out and it’s a discontinued part
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Old March 26th, 2020, 08:15 AM   #56 (permalink)
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That's pretty rare, and bearings of the same size from other Mitsubishi parts such as the Evo transmissions will still fit. The synchros die often in the manuals, but that just makes for notchy shifting. I killed mine with Royal Purple 3 years ago, and still race the car on the same trans.

I haven't observed any issues having raised the power, nor has anyone I've seen who didn't use a Lancer differential (those DO die very easily, and our GS manual trans is a common upgrade for high power FWD lancers)
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Old March 26th, 2020, 08:38 AM   #57 (permalink)
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Good to know
How did royal purple kill yours?
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Old March 26th, 2020, 09:00 AM   #58 (permalink)
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It's chemically not safe with our synchro brass alloy. Dissolves the surfaces. It says on there it's brass safe, but it's only a few brass alloys, and turns out it's long known in the Evo community as not safe in Mitsubishis
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Old March 26th, 2020, 10:41 AM   #59 (permalink)
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Interesting

Never bought RP myself but found some 75w90 gear oil and 5w30 engine oil in the trunk of my WRX from a previous owner, maybe 2 owners before me as the last guy said he used Rotella T6 5w40
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Old March 26th, 2020, 10:48 AM   #60 (permalink)
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I use redline 90 weight oil in my trans, and a variety of 5w-40 in my engine
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Old March 27th, 2020, 09:50 PM   #61 (permalink)
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Full bolt ons. I recently changed my transmission oil and i used redline for the same safe reason Saber stated. Copper parts in our MT. As for the engine question is just to have knowledge and be able to repair my own engine.
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Old April 29th, 2020, 05:11 PM   #62 (permalink)
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what would you guys say the life of our 5 speed would be? i bought my gs at 100k and had to rebuild it. I drive it pretty hard but ive begun to baby it a bit and not go over 5k rpm. I'm just wondering if itd be smart to buy an extra transaxle since i already have a spare motor im building
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Old April 29th, 2020, 05:55 PM   #63 (permalink)
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what would you guys say the life of our 5 speed would be? i bought my gs at 100k and had to rebuild it. I drive it pretty hard but ive begun to baby it a bit and not go over 5k rpm. I'm just wondering if itd be smart to buy an extra transaxle since i already have a spare motor im building
Depends on how you abuse it and how often you change the gear oil
Don’t launch it, drop the clutch, change the fluid often, and don’t bang through the gears all the time especially 1st to 2nd and it’ll give u more life, that’s how we treat the 5spd Subaru transmissions to make them last
Now an STi trans can handle anything lol
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Old April 29th, 2020, 08:16 PM   #64 (permalink)
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Except stationary launches, lmao... But no trans likes that.

Manual trans need clutch drag when they launch, otherwise the gears slam together instead of already being meshed under torque..

300,000 miles has been done on our trans, as has 600hp. Like Kyle said, it's really about how you treat and maintain it. Driven hard will always wear quicker. The synchros are the first to go usually. Then bearings. Major gear failure is rare
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Old May 1st, 2020, 07:19 AM   #65 (permalink)
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Is power shifting always involved with launching? Is it that loud bang that is heard after releasing the clutch that gives the wear from 1st to 2nd? Cause i feather instead and hate power shifting. Does that also stress my transmission? Also i tend to easily go up to 3,000rpm before i hit hard to 6,000rpm and shift to 2nd. At that rpm i seem to ride on MIVEC all the time.

This is when i race CALMLY.
When i feel excited or race something i really want to see how my car fares against i tend to mess up. I get too much spin out or stupidly miss a gear. Tho missing gears seems very rare to me these days.

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Old May 1st, 2020, 12:16 PM   #66 (permalink)
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There's no reason to flat shift an NA car. It's hard on the clutch and trans. On a turbo car, you can tune for it so that you don't lose your boost when shifting by heavily retarding timing at full throte, clutch in.
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Old May 1st, 2020, 04:31 PM   #67 (permalink)
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Isnt that what we hear in F&F when they take sharp turns? The engine revving high and bouncing at certain rpm's? 😍😍
So that isnt healthy for NA only FI engines? That dampens my spirits... thought i could set like a 6,800rpm engage and resume at like 6,750rpm as a high rev limit to shift when it's bouncing. Not even sure if many rev limits can be integrated in one tune.
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Old May 1st, 2020, 07:42 PM   #68 (permalink)
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Isnt that what we hear in F&F when they take sharp turns? The engine revving high and bouncing at certain rpm's? 😍😍
So that isnt healthy for NA only FI engines? That dampens my spirits... thought i could set like a 6,800rpm engage and resume at like 6,750rpm as a high rev limit to shift when it's bouncing. Not even sure if many rev limits can be integrated in one tune.
You’re mixing up general rev limiter and launch control? Launch control is a rev limiter in first gear while the clutch is down, or speed below like 2 mph
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Old May 1st, 2020, 09:10 PM   #69 (permalink)
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Power shifting, aka flat shifting, aka no lift shifting is where you stay gas pedal to the floor while shifting gears.

The popping rev limiter up high is a hard cut, aka ignition cut rev limiter. We have fuel cut.

The machine gun sounds on a launch of a turbo car is timing retard and ignition cut semi randomly across all the cylinders to pump air through without revving higher. Basically just such low power it cant rev higher, but spools the turbo

Pop's during sharp turns... I can think of rolling anti lag. That's where the car will stay at its current rpm, and will cut ignition on some cylinders and retard timing to 0 or less degrees to keep air flowing to keep the turbo spooled.


Almost all pops on an NA car are absolutely worthless, just for show, or as a side effect
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Old May 2nd, 2020, 12:47 AM   #70 (permalink)
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Launch control i can set to do the pops i want. Gen rev limiter i want to set to bounce like fuel cut before shifting. Read hitting fuel cut is bad... Am i on the right path? And definately all on my behalf is for show. It's all street for me. Track is for serious power and good driving. I can barely drive straight as it is, nevermind at the track. If i ever track with you two i will leave with just my steering wheel in my hands.
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Old May 2nd, 2020, 05:46 AM   #71 (permalink)
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Launch control i can set to do the pops i want. Gen rev limiter i want to set to bounce like fuel cut before shifting. Read hitting fuel cut is bad... Am i on the right path? And definately all on my behalf is for show. It's all street for me. Track is for serious power and good driving. I can barely drive straight as it is, nevermind at the track. If i ever track with you two i will leave with just my steering wheel in my hands.
So basically your general rev limiter set at ~7000rpm, resume ~6959rpm is not meant to be hit in our car every shift or ever when shifting, it’s a fail safe, you need to know where it’s set at in your tune just so u know to shift at just before you hit the rev limiter
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Old May 2nd, 2020, 08:33 AM   #72 (permalink)
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Yes. Alex just explained it to me. If i use that limiter the way i wanted i would nose dive. So basically the tune just moves the limit up to 7,000rpms and shift before it. No problem there.
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