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Old May 16th, 2020, 06:01 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Bad Fuel Filter Like Symptoms

Since there’s no fuel filter what should I be testing to see if it’s the cause of my gs to start to stutter and die coming away from red lights?

I first notice the stutter at 3k rpm after a few minutes of driving (been going on for weeks) it recovers and shifts (automatic) when I let go of the accelerator.

Eventually I’ll hit a stop light and instead of stuttering at 3k it’ll progressively get worse (2k, 1.5k) until it loses all power and the car dies while keeping the electronics on.

If I restart the car it may recover enough to move 5 feet before it dies again.

If I restart atleast 8 hours later it’ll recover enough to get it home or, in my many cases, recover enough that the mechanics can’t replicate the issue and fix it.

I’ve noticed over the weeks that it doesn’t recover as long each time. It recovered once and it was fine for a week. However after the last mechanic it didn’t even last the whole day.

The mechanic loosened the exhaust to see if the cat was the cause, however the car still died and still recovered and now my car is annoyingly loud.

I’m new to the forum so I’m sry if I didn’t provide enough info.
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Old May 16th, 2020, 07:26 PM   #2 (permalink)
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There’s a fuel filter on the fuel pump, it’s a sock filter

Do you have any codes? The computers are great at telling you what problems exist on the car

Last edited by pcfreak4; May 16th, 2020 at 07:31 PM.
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Old May 17th, 2020, 01:05 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pcfreak4 View Post
There’s a fuel filter on the fuel pump, it’s a sock filter

Do you have any codes? The computers are great at telling you what problems exist on the car
The bank 1 sensor 2 is out of the assembly I assume to bypass cat. Both bank 2 sensors are new as of December.
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Old May 17th, 2020, 08:43 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
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There’s a fuel filter on the fuel pump, it’s a sock filter

Do you have any codes? The computers are great at telling you what problems exist on the car
The bank 1 sensor 2 is out of the assembly I assume to bypass cat. Both bank 2 sensors are new as of December.
It’s out of what? Why?

Looks like both bank 2 sensors are having problems and bank 1 sensor 2

Does that code reader have generic graphing abilities for the O2’s?
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Old May 18th, 2020, 12:39 AM   #5 (permalink)
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This was happening before I removed sensor 2 from bank 1. As stated it was removed to test theory of cat being clogged. It’s to allow air to flow pre cat to see if it’s the problem. The code is there because of that. The other two sensors are brand new from autozone front desk.
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Old May 18th, 2020, 06:45 AM   #6 (permalink)
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This was happening before I removed sensor 2 from bank 1. As stated it was removed to test theory of cat being clogged. It’s to allow air to flow pre cat to see if it’s the problem. The code is there because of that. The other two sensors are brand new from autozone front desk.
Are they Denso sensors?
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Old May 18th, 2020, 08:23 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Reading about the test method, it really seems like the first 2 cats are being ignored in it.

It does sound like it can be a cat issue. It doesn't sound very fueling related, seeing as heat affects it.

There are many things it could be though. It could even be the MFI relay lol. Bad relays can work until they get hot, then the gate inside can bend away, making an intermittent circuit that works fine when cold

Bad cats will absolutely cause this too though
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Old May 19th, 2020, 02:56 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Bad cats will absolutely cause this too though
This is exactly what I was thinking but even with the o2 sensor out to allow breathing room, it’s dying the exact same way.
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Old May 19th, 2020, 02:57 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Are they Denso sensors?
I do believe so yes
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Old May 19th, 2020, 03:43 PM   #10 (permalink)
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This is exactly what I was thinking but even with the o2 sensor out to allow breathing room, it’s dying the exact same way.
Out... In what way. What sensor is removed?

Because the upstream sensors CANNOT be removed, or it will run wrong

And removing the downstream sensors is dumb, because they're after the cats anyway, so that's no test at all. That's why I'm concerned about the testing method. It's heavily flawed. It's like the mechanic doesn't realize what O2 sensors are for, or that there are cats BEFORE downstream sensors. Is it even a mechanic, or just a tech?
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Old May 19th, 2020, 08:07 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Yes if u want to try and test for better running without as much back pressure from clogged cats, you will need to remove the top o2 sensors, as the bottom o2’s are after the cats and that won’t help remove restriction since the restriction of the cats is before them

However, 2 problems:
1: removing the top o2’s will make the car run extremely bad as you have it’s only “eyes” on the rich/lean condition of the engine blind, I suggest unplugging them completely with them removed to at least make the car run open loop at idle, don’t run the car with them plugged in but out of the exhaust
2: they aren’t very big holes anyway so if the cats are really clogged then I don’t see too much pressure being relieved through the two tiny holes on the side of the exhaust pipe but idk, it’ll be better than nothing
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Old May 19th, 2020, 08:15 PM   #12 (permalink)
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With them unplugged you'll run below 10:1 AFR and it'll be a mess anyway. I did it for fun. Wouldn't recommend it
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Old May 19th, 2020, 08:25 PM   #13 (permalink)
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With them unplugged you'll run below 10:1 AFR and it'll be a mess anyway. I did it for fun. Wouldn't recommend it
Mine has run without O2 sensors or exhaust manifold before lol
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Old May 19th, 2020, 10:50 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Did you have a wideband hooked up to see your ratios?
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Old May 20th, 2020, 05:37 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Did you have a wideband hooked up to see your ratios?
No
My mechanic started it without the manifold or sensors when it was getting a starter and the manifold modded as said before
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Old May 20th, 2020, 08:29 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Gotcha. Odds are, yours ran how mine did. Incredibly rich, tons of fuel coming out the back.
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Old May 20th, 2020, 10:47 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Gotcha. Odds are, yours ran how mine did. Incredibly rich, tons of fuel coming out the back.
Yeah probably but it was on for like 30 seconds pulling out of the shop and 30 seconds to pull it back in later
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Old May 20th, 2020, 12:41 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Just guessing, but are you thinking I meant what I wrote as in it'll cause damage? The mess was that it's a ton of fuel and runs awful. Long term, it will cause damage. Short term, it's just really rich and rough
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Old May 20th, 2020, 03:40 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Just guessing, but are you thinking I meant what I wrote as in it'll cause damage? The mess was that it's a ton of fuel and runs awful. Long term, it will cause damage. Short term, it's just really rich and rough
Yeah it could probably have shortened the life of my cat, but then I realized that there was no manifold connected so the exhaust was shooting straight out of the engine and not going down the pipe anyway lol so we’re good
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Old May 20th, 2020, 04:06 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Ohhh, no. You got lucky. Don't ever run a car without a manifold connected at all

That can result in a ruined head from exhaust valves cooling too quickly. They can warp in the guides
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