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Old March 15th, 2020, 10:23 PM   #41 (permalink)
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I have twin Walbro 525 pumps that should hold out to 1200whp on E98 before seeing anything less than 60psi head pressure from the injectors into the manifold. One will be triggered with a Hobbs switch and a relay, the other with a relay off the OEM fuel pump wiring
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Old March 23rd, 2020, 05:30 PM   #42 (permalink)
140whp+15.72%= 162hp
 
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If you are completly sure our bone stock internals can handle a turbo then im in. I would like 5-7psi of boost to hear the bov with every shift. I kind of decided to end the friendly car rivalry i had with my younger brother cause everytime I tell him i beat a car he either says the other driver wasnt trying or the car I beat was slow to begin with. If you come up with the set up I would rather you pick the parts needed since you are more savvy at that than I am but I would like to get my hands dirty and do the install myself as I have with every mod in my car except welding the exhaust.
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Old March 24th, 2020, 09:48 AM   #43 (permalink)
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If you are completly sure our bone stock internals can handle a turbo then im in. I would like 5-7psi of boost to hear the bov with every shift. I kind of decided to end the friendly car rivalry i had with my younger brother cause everytime I tell him i beat a car he either says the other driver wasnt trying or the car I beat was slow to begin with. If you come up with the set up I would rather you pick the parts needed since you are more savvy at that than I am but I would like to get my hands dirty and do the install myself as I have with every mod in my car except welding the exhaust.
I run 12 psi on my completely stock block
My boost cut is set to 12.5 psi in the tune, no issues at all been like that for 2 years now
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Old March 24th, 2020, 04:29 PM   #44 (permalink)
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I'm concerned about the boost cut in Fastworks.

I hit cold boost cut, and that happened to be the second that my engine died. That was 3psi boost, around 3000rpm, low throttle. I was just about to shift gears, hit boost cut, and then my motor began to knock.

It works by cutting fuel, which is standard... But I'm still afraid of it, based off my experience
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Old March 24th, 2020, 04:44 PM   #45 (permalink)
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I'm concerned about the boost cut in Fastworks.

I hit cold boost cut, and that happened to be the second that my engine died. That was 3psi boost, around 3000rpm, low throttle. I was just about to shift gears, hit boost cut, and then my motor began to knock.

It works by cutting fuel, which is standard... But I'm still afraid of it, based off my experience
I understand that, I'm always super slow on throttle when car is cold,
Also my boost controller is set to 12.5 PSI, So once I hit that, it drops down to 11.5, and works back up and holds at 12 psi
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Old March 24th, 2020, 05:13 PM   #46 (permalink)
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That's an odd way for it to do it. Mine's set for 16psi, and just holds 16psi. Is your gate opening too late? I have my gate set to crack at 10psi
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Old March 24th, 2020, 05:22 PM   #47 (permalink)
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That's an odd way for it to do it. Mine's set for 16psi, and just holds 16psi. Is your gate opening too late? I have my gate set to crack at 10psi
I have mine set that way, because I was getting really bad boost spikes, helps relieve it
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Old March 24th, 2020, 09:51 PM   #48 (permalink)
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12psi sounds good but im not looking to be fast. I dont understand this boost cut... is it like a rev limiter?
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Old March 24th, 2020, 10:38 PM   #49 (permalink)
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What it means is that you set a boost pressure where the car will cut all power, to prevent overboosting to a dangerous level. Eg, if oyu want to stay at 12psi, set your boost cut to 13. If it hits 13 because something went wrong, it'll cut power, and won't overboost

I have my ECU boost cut set to 14psi cold, and no limit hot. I also have an electronic boost controller. On my default setting when I turn the car on, it just does 10psi. On my second setting, it's set to do 16psi, and cut to 10psi if I hit 18.5psi.
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Old March 25th, 2020, 12:48 AM   #50 (permalink)
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I thought the BOV got rid of the extra boost that could endanger the engine. Or was i mislead by a guy in a pick up using a leaf blower to boost his truck? I guess boost cut is the proper method.
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Old March 25th, 2020, 06:44 AM   #51 (permalink)
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Quote:
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I thought the BOV got rid of the extra boost that could endanger the engine. Or was i mislead by a guy in a pick up using a leaf blower to boost his truck? I guess boost cut is the proper method.
Ok so there’s the wastegate, blow off or bypass diverter valve, and the boost controller (bleeder valve or solenoid)

So the turbo spools up and would spin too much and overboost the engine, so the wastegate arm is pushed open at spring pressure to open the wastegate and let extra boost escape, the boost controller holds extra boost between the turbo and the wastegate to allow you to hold more boost than the wastegate spring allows, the blow off or bypass valve is mounted on your charge intake pipe after the turbo so that when you let off the throttle and the throttle plate snaps closed, the boost escapes through it so that it doesn’t blow a charge pipe connection off or try to spin the turbo backwards as the boosted air has nowhere to go when the throttle plate closes and needs to escape, a blowoff valve just dumps this to the atmosphere where a bypass diverted dumps it back into the intake, usually used on MAF cars where the air has already been measured by the MAF

A boost cut in the ECU is a failover catch in case any of these devices failed and caused an overboost, the MAP sensor sees this and the ECU cuts fuel, it’s not something you want to do

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Old March 25th, 2020, 08:06 AM   #52 (permalink)
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I'd like to add for clarity that the turbo is spun up by exhaust flow, and that the wastegate diverts excess exhaust flow to prevent it from building too much pressure. It's a constantly variable amount of flow needed, so the actuator that opens the gate is controlled by a diaphragm that pushes against a spring, and is supplied air pressure from the intake manifold
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Old March 25th, 2020, 05:48 PM   #53 (permalink)
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On my WRX there’s a nipple on the turbo housing, and that goes to your boost controller input port, then the boost controller output port connects to the wastegate nipple, the wastegate spring open at like 8 psi so to do say 15 psi total you need to set the boost controller to hold another 7 psi before allowing the air to travel to the wastegate where the 8 psi is required to open the wastegate

A 3 port boost controller has a 3rd line that connects to the intake before the turbo after the MAF and can allow air to travel through that as well, I forget exactly how that works though
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Old March 25th, 2020, 06:13 PM   #54 (permalink)
140whp+15.72%= 162hp
 
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I get it now. It took abit to figure out what you two were saying but i got it. Im guessing the extra air on the third port that goes into the intake after the MAF is so the sensor doesnt read that extra air but if it doesnt read it wouldnt the air/fuel mixture be more lean?
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Old March 25th, 2020, 06:55 PM   #55 (permalink)
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Yeah just like a bypass valve dumps the air back into the intake after MAF, because the air has already been metered
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Old April 9th, 2020, 11:38 AM   #56 (permalink)
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EGR delete is mentioned above. Do NA builds benefit from that?
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Old April 9th, 2020, 11:43 AM   #57 (permalink)
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Nope. It's not taken out for power or fuel economy gains (probably hurts fuel economy to remove).

It's taken out to prevent cylinder 4 pistons exploding from excess heat from the turbo setup
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Old April 13th, 2020, 01:14 AM   #58 (permalink)
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Got it! Could a bad EGR cause rough idle?
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Old April 13th, 2020, 08:35 AM   #59 (permalink)
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Not usually. It'll run hot stuck open, but will pass the flow checks so no code.

Cruising and idling, it should be open anyway. Check for vacuum leaks
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Old April 15th, 2020, 07:20 PM   #60 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sabertooth^2 View Post
Not usually. It'll run hot stuck open, but will pass the flow checks so no code.

Cruising and idling, it should be open anyway. Check for vacuum leaks
Is there a method you use to check for vacuum leaks?
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Old April 15th, 2020, 09:29 PM   #61 (permalink)
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I actually use a boost leak tester to find vacuum leaks. You can make one dirt cheap

A Schrader valve, plumbing cap, silicone coupler, and gear clamps. You basically just make a clamp on cap for the intake pipe, or wherever you're gonna use. Then, add pressure with the oil cap off. You'll hear leaks
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Old April 15th, 2020, 10:34 PM   #62 (permalink)
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Pressure? Pump air into the valve? Excuse my ignorance. Engine off, right? I assume that im searching for the same air going in leaking out?
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Old April 15th, 2020, 10:46 PM   #63 (permalink)
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Engine off, you pressurize the intake and hoses.

Air then leaks out from any leak spots
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