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4G Eclipse GS/SE Specific 2.4L I4 (4G69) Specific Forum


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Old May 25th, 2020, 04:34 PM   #1 (permalink)
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4G69 Engine Overhaul Efficacy

Recently my 4G69 equipped 2009 Eclipse GS 2.4 has started throwing an oil pressure light at idle speeds (600-800RPMs) when up to temperature.

She's 189,000 miles old, and has given me absolutely no mechanical woes; I'm the second owner, purchased in 2014, and have kept her bone stock with oil changes at 4.5k intervals on semi or full synthetic oil.

Second pic is underside of block, by oil pan. She hasn't even gone weepy.

The car will likely need a new oil pump/front timing assembly (MN137803), new timing belts, etc.

From an overall cost perspective, is it worth it to keep this car in daily service and repair it in the engine bay, purchase a second vehicle and garage this one to pull and rebuild the engine, or should I clean her up and sell her to her final owner?
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Last edited by GotWeez; May 25th, 2020 at 04:43 PM.
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Old May 25th, 2020, 04:54 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Try a new pressure sensor first

It looks great to me
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Old May 25th, 2020, 09:44 PM   #3 (permalink)
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The fact that it's at idle HEAVILY supports that the sensor isn't the issue. Usually that's a sign of worn bearings or a leaking pump (internally). But hey, it's worth a shot at the price.

If you rebuild the block, you'll see quite a lot more use from the car. They're a very stiff chassis, and will last a long time maintained. The Bay looks like it's incredibly clean, and is in better shape than any in Canada I've ever seen
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Old May 26th, 2020, 12:09 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Anybody else wants to point out that he should stick to full Synth instead of going bk and forth from semi to full synth? Or is he ok?
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Old May 26th, 2020, 12:18 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparda D'Mon View Post
Anybody else wants to point out that he should stick to full Synth instead of going bk and forth from semi to full synth? Or is he ok?
You ultimately should pick one and stick with it, if you’re gonna go synthetic, stay with synthetic, some would argue that sticking to the exact same one too is advisable due to different additive packs getting mixed if u switch brand or type

I use Castrol Edge 5w20 in my eclipse if anybody cares
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Old May 26th, 2020, 02:14 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Anybody else wants to point out that he should stick to full Synth instead of going bk and forth from semi to full synth? Or is he ok?
I cared before I started rebuilding motors. Now, I've found that synthetic just slows down wear due to being more slippery
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Old May 26th, 2020, 04:20 PM   #7 (permalink)
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So as far as the blend of oil, I'm not as concerned as the oil changes are complete flushes. Typically, I use the Castrol GTX high mileage Syn.

I removed the oil pressure switch and found that at cold idle had about 25-30psi and idling at temperature with 18-22psi. Spec should be around 4.5 psi.

Replaced switch, waiting for thread sealant to cure. Will attempt to replicate symptoms. Next step will be a 10W-30 to help keep things sealed up better at temperature.

A little baffled as to the high pressure reading on dial. Any thoughts?
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Old May 26th, 2020, 09:24 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Weird. I only do about 10psi hot idle on 15w-40 on a freshly built motor. When coolant first hits 185f, the oil is only about 120f. It takes quite a while to get the oil up to or past 185f where the pressure sits around 10.
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Old June 3rd, 2020, 07:22 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GotWeez View Post
So as far as the blend of oil, I'm not as concerned as the oil changes are complete flushes. Typically, I use the Castrol GTX high mileage Syn.

I removed the oil pressure switch and found that at cold idle had about 25-30psi and idling at temperature with 18-22psi. Spec should be around 4.5 psi.

Replaced switch, waiting for thread sealant to cure. Will attempt to replicate symptoms. Next step will be a 10W-30 to help keep things sealed up better at temperature.

A little baffled as to the high pressure reading on dial. Any thoughts?

If you're getting 25-30/18-22 psi cold/hot @ idle, I'd say those are excellent numbers for an engine with that kind of mileage/age. A good rule of thumb I usually go by for oil pressure is ~10 psi per 1000 rpm when hot.

Do you know the actual oil temp when you took those oil pressure readings? On a cold engine, coolant temps typically rise a lot faster than oil temps. That might explain the higher than normal pressure reading.

Also, there isn't a problem mixing semi/full synthetic or varying service spec oils over the life of the engine. One of the SAE specs that is part of the API service rating classification is that the newest spec is backwards compatible with previous ones.


API Engine Oil Classification

https://www.api.org/products-and-ser...oil-categories
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Old June 6th, 2020, 10:26 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fizzix View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by GotWeez View Post
So as far as the blend of oil, I'm not as concerned as the oil changes are complete flushes. Typically, I use the Castrol GTX high mileage Syn.

I removed the oil pressure switch and found that at cold idle had about 25-30psi and idling at temperature with 18-22psi. Spec should be around 4.5 psi.

Replaced switch, waiting for thread sealant to cure. Will attempt to replicate symptoms. Next step will be a 10W-30 to help keep things sealed up better at temperature.

A little baffled as to the high pressure reading on dial. Any thoughts?

If you're getting 25-30/18-22 psi cold/hot @ idle, I'd say those are excellent numbers for an engine with that kind of mileage/age. A good rule of thumb I usually go by for oil pressure is ~10 psi per 1000 rpm when hot.

Do you know the actual oil temp when you took those oil pressure readings? On a cold engine, coolant temps typically rise a lot faster than oil temps. That might explain the higher than normal pressure reading.

Also, there isn't a problem mixing semi/full synthetic or varying service spec oils over the life of the engine. One of the SAE specs that is part of the API service rating classification is that the newest spec is backwards compatible with previous ones.


API Engine Oil Classification

https://www.api.org/products-and-ser...oil-categories
No, I didn't measure the oil temperature directly, I just ran the motor for about as long as it took for the pressure indicator to light up, about 20-30 minutes.

When I replaced the oil pressure switch, I did note oil present inside of the electrical connector. Since replacing it and switching oil grades, I haven't had any indicators light up, so I'm thinking it was just the switch. For now, I've coated my replacement pump in oil for storage and will wait and see what happens.
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