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Old January 7th, 2013, 10:16 PM   #1 (permalink)
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how many of you are running spacers?

(wheel spacers) And if so what size? and if you have it post a pic please!!!!
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Old January 7th, 2013, 10:46 PM   #2 (permalink)
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just get wider wheels :]
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Old January 7th, 2013, 10:49 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I alreadt ordered some 25mm for all 4 wheels but just curious how many people have them already and what sizes they went with...not tryin to get rid of the rims i have they will be ok come this weekend....lol
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Old January 7th, 2013, 10:56 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Can't wait to see before and after pics chuck. If I get coilovers come tax time I'll prob look into getting spacers aswell. GL!
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Old January 7th, 2013, 11:00 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I will def post pics of before and after in my ride thread....
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Old January 7th, 2013, 11:04 PM   #6 (permalink)
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it affects your offset, id say try to keep the offset in the 20's for our cars....you should be ok with a 25mm
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i see kchu's swag has rubbed off on you sir
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I would retract this statement and go f**k yourself before kchu comes and makes you look and feel like the biggest moron to ever walk this earth.
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Old January 7th, 2013, 11:06 PM   #7 (permalink)
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thanx kev...ever ran spacers yourself?
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Old January 7th, 2013, 11:10 PM   #8 (permalink)
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for a few weeks.....just make sure to tighten the lugs every couple hundred miles
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i see kchu's swag has rubbed off on you sir
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You _REALLY_ don't wanna start that war...

Trust me.

I would retract this statement and go f**k yourself before kchu comes and makes you look and feel like the biggest moron to ever walk this earth.
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Old January 7th, 2013, 11:36 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Agree^ I stress this to customers that ask me questions about wheel spacers. Personally I don't feel that there to safe. Interested to see pix though
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Old January 8th, 2013, 07:16 AM   #10 (permalink)
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I'm running 20 f 25 r spacers, and I have had to tighten my front passenger wheel once but it hasn't happened again since. but i do try to keep a feel for any play on the highway
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Old January 8th, 2013, 07:19 AM   #11 (permalink)
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For the V2 spacers, What about using a threadlock like Monkey Spit (200 or 300) or LocTite on the hub-to-spacer threads? Getting ready to add a pair to the rears.
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Old January 8th, 2013, 07:33 AM   #12 (permalink)
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^do what you feel comfortable with, but honestly you will be fine without. my wheel was spinning at 80 mph for 20 miles and it was just 2 lugs that needed to be tightened. the other 3 were fine and again only on one wheel. i checked the rest just to make sure but they were all tightened down. It was honestly probably my fault for not torquing them enough
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Old January 8th, 2013, 07:35 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Per the manual at Tearstone: 73 7 ft-lb
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Old January 8th, 2013, 08:46 AM   #14 (permalink)
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95 ft-lb on wheel to hub is what is recommended on the cars specs. I would just replicate on wheel spacer just to b extra safe. 95 to 115 is what I usually torque my wheels at
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Old January 8th, 2013, 09:52 AM   #15 (permalink)
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I thought 73 ft-lbs looked low, but where does it say 95 ft-lbs for our cars? I'm pulling 73 ft-lbs out of the "Group 31 - Wheel & Tire" guide.

I am going to torque the spacer down as though it were a wheel, but using some threadlock.

Then torque the wheel down on the spacer, w/o threadlock.
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Old January 8th, 2013, 10:54 AM   #16 (permalink)
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I don't think it says 95 ft/lbs anywhere, but I've been using that same torque setting for my lugs on all my cars for years and it's never failed me.
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Old January 8th, 2013, 11:12 AM   #17 (permalink)
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At Discount tire wheel torque spec guide. Not even the smallest cars take 73. The minimun is 80 ft lbs. Each vehicle has a specific torque spec. If I did 95 on a f150 he would be screwed. So hopefully you are talking about eclipse. If it hasnt failed then ur lucky if you have used that spec on all cars
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Old January 8th, 2013, 11:31 AM   #18 (permalink)
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I'm referring to the 4G Eclipse Factory service manual, here: http://tearstone.com/eclipsefsm/2006...0003000-31.pdf. Why any garage would apply a number other than this to a car, escapes me. According to this, 81+ ft-lbs = over-torque = neligence.

(stay with me...there is a lot of room for discrepancy here...there's what is published...there's what we know will work...there's typos...yada yada yada)

I've said I thought 73 ft-lbs was light. For my Sebring it's 100 ft-lbs, but numbers go where numbers go for a reason. I have to wonder why Mitsubishi put such a seemingly low number in for wheel nut torque.

I've had my wheels off before, on many cars, but never used anything other than "elbow torque", as in, "Yep, damn that's tight enough!". I've also never had spacers on before, and I'm about to do so, so I'm getting a little picky about it.
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Old January 8th, 2013, 12:01 PM   #19 (permalink)
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You can follow the service manual but its no wheel expert when it comes to torque. It says 73 etc but also a Honda civic requires 80 ft lbs. clearly something is not right lol. But hey il keep 95 ft lbs on my torque spec and the lugs come right off just like other customers 4gs. I guess someone should test out the 73/80 ft lbs and see how it goes. I sure wont
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Old January 8th, 2013, 12:21 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Hey, I'm nervous about it too!
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Old January 8th, 2013, 03:20 PM   #21 (permalink)
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According to the chart I have at work, it's 80, as are most import cars. Almost all domestic cars (with the exception of rebadged imports like the pontiac vibe and chevy aveo) are 100. Volkswagons and other german cars with the bolt style lugs are between 67 and 110. Trucks vary from 100 (like the mazda b series, or nissan trucks) to 160 for domestic duelies.

Just a thought, but since most people put on their spares by hand with a four-way, they probably over torque it. I don't think 95 will do to much damage to an 80.
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Old January 8th, 2013, 07:04 PM   #22 (permalink)
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hey torque monkeys...wheres some pics of before and afters, lmao
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Old January 12th, 2013, 07:37 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Just put 20mm spacers on the rears. Torqued all 10 lugs on each side to 75 ft-lbs and I was again surprised at how light that really is. Gonna monitor closely, remove the wheels again tomorrow night and see how I'm doing.

BTW, 20mm spacers on the rear, I stood back, had a look, and had what I like to call, a "Chip Foose" moment, and said, "Why do I have to spend money to get here, why doesn't it look that way stock?" 20mm on the rears are perfectly flush with the fender.
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Old January 12th, 2013, 08:04 PM   #24 (permalink)
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BTW, 20mm spacers on the rear, I stood back, had a look, and had what I like to call, a "Chip Foose" moment, and said, "Why do I have to spend money to get here, why doesn't it look that way stock?" 20mm on the rears are perfectly flush with the fender.
Did you have to trim the studs at all or did the spacer clear them?
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Old January 12th, 2013, 09:23 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Did you have to trim the studs at all or did the spacer clear them?
These are the "v2" type spacers (although not Ichiba brand).

After mounting the spacers on the rear hubs, I considered that, but...the stock 17" wheels have recesses in them that seem to be there for those spacers. I THINK the ends of the studs are sitting inside those recesses in the wheels.
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Old January 12th, 2013, 10:21 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Hmm alright..thanks for the reply
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Old January 12th, 2013, 11:42 PM   #27 (permalink)
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here they are installed ....
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Old January 12th, 2013, 11:43 PM   #28 (permalink)
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and from the back
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Old January 12th, 2013, 11:45 PM   #29 (permalink)
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and gave it a waxing
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Old January 13th, 2013, 12:12 PM   #30 (permalink)
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20mm Spacers Install, GS Stock rear wheels, Before and After

Passenger and Driver side rear - Before




Driver side after




Driver side before and after - Spacer only added to the rear




Before - According to my ghetto measurement, I need about 22mm to get "flush". The level bar is sitting on the fender, and I measured the distance from the tire to the bar. I'm not lowered yet, so I need the bar to get close to accurate on this.




Couple of shots of the passenger side spacer installed. Torqued these 19mm nuts to 75 ft-lbs. Also torqued the lug nuts to 75 ft-lbs.




After - Sitting the bar across the tire, which is mounted on the car, the bar now shows some space between the bar and the fender. Either the spacer is larger than 20mm (doubt it), or my ghetto measurement above needs help (most likely). This shows I'm now a few mm's outside of flush, and I am happy! (arm and a leg of an awfully cute little helper in this pic, too)




A lot of work yet to do, but overall, a good step forward with the 4G. This exercise has shown me the importance of learning offsets when shopping for new wheels.



(the car is a dd and is unforgivably dirty right now)
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Old January 13th, 2013, 12:14 PM   #31 (permalink)
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I need to add that I think my pictures SUCK at showing the real difference here. The car looks so much more aggressive with the 20mm spacers pushing the rears out to flush with the top of the fender. And that's on stock rims and (other than the spacers) no "stance".
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Old February 27th, 2013, 08:02 AM   #32 (permalink)
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Someone asked me in a PM about needing to chop off the studs to accomodate the wheel. Anyone who's done spacers before knows this isn't required, but I thought I'd throw out this picture of the backside of a stock 17" wheel. You can see the trapezoidal spaces in between the stud holes. This is where the original wheel studs sink into, and why you don't have to cut anything to use a spacer.

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Those of you running 9.5 all around ryanastyG4 Wheels, Tires, Brakes and Suspension 4 September 15th, 2010 07:30 PM
15mm H&R Spacers & GS TB and Intake Manifold Phenolic Spacers MarkGuutz Automotive For Sale/Wanted 11 June 17th, 2010 09:04 AM
any running this setup ? the fuzz 2006-2012 Eclipse (General 4G) 2 July 21st, 2009 09:46 PM
running 2 OEM RF subs? XxkevinchuxX Audio & Lighting 11 May 29th, 2009 11:37 AM


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