HOW TO: Cure Gas Cap Cancer - Club4G Forum : Mitsubishi Eclipse 4G Forums - 2006-2012 Eclipse Authority
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Old August 4th, 2009, 07:54 PM   #1 (permalink)
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HOW TO: Cure Gas Cap Cancer

This is what iam talking about, the evil horriable cancer



You will need
Fine Sandpaper. I used 400grit but a but rougher wouldnt hurt
10mm Socket and with a rachet and extender bar
#4 Metric alan key
Clear Coat
Latex gloves
Alcohol wipes

First use the 10mm socket remove the 3 bolts inside the gas cap and remove the entire assembly.(The alloy part ahe the black plastic part behind it.)

Next use the alan key to remove the 6 bolts aroung the diameter of the gas cap. Set those little guys aside. Be careful not to lose the nuts off the back side.

You should be left with this.


Now take your sandpaper and sand with the grain on the gascap until the cancer is all gone. You will notice a white powdery substance come off as you sand this is a mix of wax and factory sealent coming off. its ok.

Now you should be left with somthing like this.


Now put on the gloves and wipe it down with the alcahol wipes to remove any dust dirt or oil that may be left on the gascap. Keep in mind that this is now raw metal and will ruse if any oil or water are left when you paint it so do a damn good job getting it clean.


Now while you have a clean dry and cancer free surface apply clearcoat till your satisifyed its sealed and totally coated. I did 4 coats.


Then you should be left with somthing that looks like this.




NOTE!! As you can see i wasnt able to get all the cancer out but it looks 1000% better this is where a slightly grittyer(if thats a word) sandpaper would have come in hand but over all im pleased.






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Old August 4th, 2009, 07:56 PM   #2 (permalink)
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What "exactly" is the gas cap cancer?
Where did the spots come from?
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Old August 4th, 2009, 07:58 PM   #3 (permalink)
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no idea but myself, EclipseFL07 and Witeout all have it. And it looks like shit, but its all better now
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Old August 4th, 2009, 07:59 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Well, I'll be on the lookout for it. Thanks for the warning.
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Old August 4th, 2009, 08:11 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I love you man!! I am getting the same shit on mine. Not as bad as yours but still bad.

I will do this ASAP!!
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Old October 13th, 2012, 03:25 PM   #6 (permalink)
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gas cap needed a little TLC

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Old March 8th, 2013, 09:51 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Just came across this thread.
When I first got my Eclipse I had almost the same problem with my gas door. However my door had a few sections, mostly on the outer ring area, that were even worse than just the cancer spots. It had large black sections.
Here are a few pics of how mine turned out.
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Old April 11th, 2013, 07:30 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Is the gas cap aluminum? I was going to use slr to clean it but it says no aluminum
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Old April 11th, 2013, 05:12 PM   #9 (permalink)
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If I ever pick one up I will probably do like I did for the fork legs on the bike. 400 grit, 1000 grit, 1500 grit, 2000 grit then 3000 grit, then aluminum polish to make it near chrome and then just polish to keep it clear or, sand it smooth prime and paint match.
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Old April 12th, 2013, 07:30 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I use a degreaser to clean, wire brush on a drill then finer wire brush to finish and clear coat.
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Old April 15th, 2013, 11:45 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Looks GREAT!!!
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Old April 27th, 2013, 02:01 PM   #12 (permalink)
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These are all great methods of curing the "cancer." I'm assuming the discoloration is simply oxidation in areas where the factory clear coat was a) applied inconsistently, b)scratched through or c) removed over time by car washes. Even though Al is supposed to be resistant to oxidation, it still just that: resistant. Certainly, environmental factors contribute to speeding up the process. A car in a hot, humid area (like FL or NJ in the summer) is more likely to develop the condition than one in a hot, dry area (like in AZ or NV). I just posted in the detailing section about how I cleaned my wife's with a simple Mr. Clean Magic Eraser. It turned out 99% better with hardly ANY work. Just be careful around the painted body work surround the door, as the eraser will dull the clear coat finish.
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Old October 19th, 2013, 08:01 AM   #13 (permalink)
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This happens on the plastic gas cap covers as well. I wish I could find out what causes it because it looks like shit.
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Old January 14th, 2015, 09:06 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Results

I stumbled across this thread while aimlessly browsing the forum and thought why not give it a shot. It isn't perfect, but I am very happy with the way it turned out in the end. It definitely beats spending about $150 on Amazon for a whole new one like I was originally going to. Thanks for sharing and I would highly recommend this to anyone with the same problem. It makes the whole car look 1000 times better overall!
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Old July 20th, 2015, 11:56 AM   #15 (permalink)
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My siste's Eclipse started to suffer this so when she asked me what could be done, I told her I could fix it nearly forever! Lol, I cleaned media blasted the cancer away and powder coated it for her. (The gunmetal cap is hers, the chrome is one I did for another friend)





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Old July 20th, 2015, 05:10 PM   #16 (permalink)
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I like the gun metal look!!!
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Old September 29th, 2015, 07:46 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Thanks for the great ideas! I had the dealer replace that door only 5 months ago and it started corroding again. I bought this car brand new with 12 miles on it. It’s only got 5000 miles on it now and I was not going to let that door go again.

I read a number of posts on this site and got ideas of what I wanted to do. A few days ago, I reinstalled the door and this is the results. The picture here shows my car’s original color, (Silver), which wasn’t my first choice at all but when the dealer called with a ridiculously low counter offer just so he could clear it from the lot well, I would’ve been crazy to turn it down.

Anyway, I removed and disassembled the fuel door assembly. CAREFULL!, those screws are aluminum and the mating nuts are aluminum too! Like metals will gall very easily, (I’m a machinist by trade), and then of course, the cross-threading possibilities are a concern as well!

I washed the parts in warm soap water, removed any corrosion with a moto-tool, (steel brush bit), and then lightly sanded the surfaces with 400 grit emery paper.

Then rewashed the parts, blew them dry, and spray painted the outer ring and door with 4 coats of primer gray, (front and back). I sprayed the door itself with 4 more layers of clear-coat “Flat”, (in all cases, each coat applied was “thin” to avoid runs and ripples).

For the outer ring, I spray painted it with Rustoleum Gloss Black, (about 4 or 5 coats). I waited about 3 hours after the last coat and went over the entire thing with a fine sand paper to ‘dull it up” a bit. Then I sprayed 4 or 5 more clear-coat layers on it.

I only had Clear Coat in “Flat” finish, (the store I was at didn’t have the satin finish version). I didn’t want a high gloss on that ring but I didn’t want it flat either. I did have Krylon protectant in clear satin finish and applied 4 coats of that.

I know it sounds like a lot of “coats” but remember, each coat was light which offered fast drying times as a result. Therefore, I had the entire job done in about 5 hours, which included the 3 hours of drying time I gave the Rustoleum stage.

I waited until the following day and reinstalled the door. That’s it! Thanks again for the great suggestions and ideas!

BTW: the dealership’s ‘mechanic’, (and I use the term loosely), who replaced the door the first time, crossed threaded two of the 6 aluminum cap screws.

For anyone who may have that problem and wants to know what I did, I simply chased the nut of the cross-threaded screws with an 8-32 tap.

The screws themselves weren’t harmed but if they had been, I would’ve chased those with an 8-32 ring-die.
Rich

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Old May 21st, 2020, 07:07 PM   #18 (permalink)
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THANKS for the info. Will be doing this.
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Old May 21st, 2020, 11:43 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ReggaeRampage View Post
What "exactly" is the gas cap cancer?
Where did the spots come from?
I'm a machinist (retired), and have worked with an uncountable number of materials. Aluminum is one of them and the most common grade of aluminum's for cars is 2024 T3 and 6061 T6 ("aircraft grade") and that fuel door is one of those grades.

If I had to guess, I’d say that the fuel door on my 2012 Eclipse GT is 2024 T3, (6061 aluminum would likely have lasted a little longer before showing signs of oxidation).

All commercial and consumer grade aluminum's will oxidize. The "cancer" you're looking at is simply corrosion. Aluminum, brass, bronze, etc., will corrode and breakdown like most other metals.

"Acid-rain", which is prevalent anywhere in the world, carries a number of pollutants that help speed that process up. Because the increase in air pollution worldwide, this oxidation process seems to be happening to many of these materials sooner than I remember it happening (maybe it’s just me).

There have been many new chemicals developed with the technological boom that we’ve had in the last 25 years to 40 years. These chemicals and ‘technological byproducts’ all make it to the water table and evaporation takes it to the air.

The rain brings it back down again and then windows begin scuffing, limestone statues start melting (ever faster), and Mitsubishi Eclipse fuel doors start corroding

I fixed mine the same way as shown in this thread but I wanted a Gloss-black door. Therefore, after I sealed it, I used several coats of “Rustoleum” paint. The instructions on the can said “no Primer needed” and I believed it.

Unfortunately, I should have gone with my feeling that applying a few coats of primer couldn’t hurt, but I didn’t. Now I think I see signs of some corrosion… Maybe not, I don’t know, I’ll have to look at it closer. This is a fuel door and gasoline can get under that paint so I’m not surprised if it is.

It’s been about 6 years since I fixed it so it did last quite a while.
Rich
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Old May 25th, 2020, 01:57 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Did it! Work great looks better than new.
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