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Old July 26th, 2020, 01:02 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Fat An Slow 4000GT

I know this isn't directly 4g, but you guys have provided a TON of help and info along the way with this project.

This is a drag car only. It's a 93 3000GT that I gutted. I ran a personal best of 12.6 @ 110mph with a completely stock 3.0l TT engine. I should note the engine never ran well, it was from spare parts😂.

Anyhow, I spun a bearing and really did some soul searching on what I wanted next. I didnt feel like building 'just another' piston and rod 3.0l, and it didnt make sense to sell.

Then i found the answers to some of the 3.8 MIVEC snags I had encountered when considering this swap before. I was sold on it. Bought a motor over the winter.

As of right now, the car is coming together. It weighed in at 2615lbs with a DOHC 3.0l TT, (which should be muchheavier than NA 3.8l) and AWD with factory 3 piece steel driveshaft. I have most of the work done, waiting on AEM and some other parts. Installing a carbon fiber driveshaft. Bought lighter weld style wheels and slicks. Hoping to get into 2500lb range in a car that started out at 3800lbs.

Plans include just driving it NA and AWD, then Nitrous, E85, pistons and rods around 4.0 liters, and then turbos.

I have build progress on my fb page at
https://www.facebook.com/fatanslowracing/

Also on Instagram at https://instagram.com/fatanslow4000g...d=xu0pyr321fpl

I have a YouTube channel as well, which I tend to focus on more than Instagram. That is at
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCEO...GA7G7rBZujqnmA

Thanks for all your help guys and gals! Hopefully I can put down some serious numbers in due time!!!!!!
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Old July 26th, 2020, 01:22 AM   #2 (permalink)
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That's an impressive bit of weight reduction. How extreme did you have to go beyond gutting to hit that?
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Old July 26th, 2020, 10:00 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sabertooth^2 View Post
That's an impressive bit of weight reduction. How extreme did you have to go beyond gutting to hit that?
Honestly, it's no special parts(cf, fiberglass) for weight. It's still an all steel car, just removed bracing from places not needed.

Hood is pretty much a piece of sheet metal. Doors are nothing but outer skin and latches/hinges. Really it's just a luxury Grand Tourer without any of the luxury. Or grand touring😂. I removed swaybars as they arent necessary for drag racing.

Tge only true lightweight parts are lexan windshields front/rear and driver/passenger. I made those out of lexan sheets. The megan coilovers are a shade lighter than oem ECS struts, but that's about it.
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Old July 26th, 2020, 10:27 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Does the 3kgt use door frames? I'm curious about the door window mounting you did.

I've been trying to drop some weight on my eclipse. I'm trying for 2800lbs right now, which shouldn't be too bad. But it's an unlimited class track toy I'm building. So all info from people who've done it before is helpful. Next up for weight I think it'll be getting dry ice to remove the sound deadening from the floors and walls
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Old July 27th, 2020, 01:35 AM   #5 (permalink)
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3000GTs are frameless windows. I used the method of basically bending metal rod and welding washers to it every couple inches. Then i drill a hole through lexan and rivet it to washer.

For the sound deadening, I just bought a harbor freight heat gun. Used a putty knife and wiped it down with Laquer thinner after.

You ought to definitely be able to reach 2800lbs if you remove everything. If I'm AWD and i got it this light, you should certainly be able to with FWD.

Now if you're trying to keep it streetable then that mite be more difficult.
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Old July 27th, 2020, 01:42 AM   #6 (permalink)
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This pic mite help if you zoom in. You can kind of see it on passenger side by the word 'craftsmen'. I didnt realize til now I really dont have pics of them.
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Old July 27th, 2020, 01:44 AM   #7 (permalink)
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That's coming up blurry when I try to view it on phone. That may not help. If I remember I'll grab pics.
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Old July 27th, 2020, 11:22 AM   #8 (permalink)
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I can't see it, but I understand what you're getting at.

And yeah, 2800lbs isn't much of a goal. I may be at that with a full sound system right now. The final goal is around 2600lbs with AWD, the all wheel will add about 200lbs. Fiberglass panels and poly windows are the end goal.

As for streetable, I'd be keeping it able to be converted between street and track quickly with the aero being all that has to change. It's primarily going to be a circuit car moving forward, I've got a truck to get it where it has to go when set up. But it's not there yet
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Old July 29th, 2020, 12:17 AM   #9 (permalink)
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That should definitely be an awesome car!!!!!! What are you using for AWD?

I hear you on the rest. I have a 68 and 71 pickup I'm hybrid-izing into one. That'll be my tow vehicle. But one thing at a time��
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Old July 29th, 2020, 08:04 AM   #10 (permalink)
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I have a GS, so the Evo 5/6/7/8/9 driveline bolts up. My plan is to use a non ACD 5 speed manual trans and T case, coupled with an endeavor or Evo rear differential. The rear difs don't bolt right up, but the endeavor rear subframe does, and it'll take the rear differentials. For a driveshaft, I'll have a custom aluminum one made, although the evo one can work if shortened.

It really needs the AWD. It's sitting around 500hp right now, and the traction is laughable.
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Old July 30th, 2020, 11:21 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Oh man!!!! That IS bad at 500 fwhp. I rode in a buddys car with 500ish fwhp. All he did was burnouts. Really cool burnouts, but still. And he could almost never push it through corners without severe pedaling for fear of blowing tires off. Ended up getting into a gsx and much happier.
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Old July 30th, 2020, 11:23 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Ivd been doing a widespread research of mitsu over the years, and it's pretty cool how much of their stuff fits other stuff. Like you mentioned with endeavor/eclipse parts. It's almost like easter eggs hidden for us to find.
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Old July 30th, 2020, 12:45 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Engine wise there's so much too, the whole 4G6# series shares parts. When I built my block, I was using 4G63 7 bolt 100mm stroker stuff with 87.5mm pistons. There are some 1000+hp 4G63 using 4G69 crankshafts as well, as they're the strongest OEM 4G6# crank available, plus you get the extra displacement.

My favourite combo though, is 4G64 block, 4G69 crank/Manley 100mm crank, 4G63 156mm rods, 4G63 87mm pistons, 4G63 main/rod bearings, 4G63 6 bolt head studs (1/2" vs 3/8"), 4G63 7 bolt main studs, 4G69 head. The head throws people off, because it's SOHC. However, it outflows the 4G63 head healthily, and has much less rotating mass. It'll be less street firnedly with aggressive cam profiles, but makes for a much better race motor. Bottom end wise, that's the setup you see on the 10,000-14,000rpm redline 4G63 builds making absurd power. I'd like to do something like that with a 69 head, although it'll be gutless down low (eg, below 6000 lol) with cam profiles to support that high of revs. My current setup should be good for 8500rpm safe, 9500rpm if I feel like changing bearings seasonally. It's plenty enough airflow to make up for the low displacement, but could be sillier.


But on the point of power and traction... My Eclipse did a [email protected] when it was on 14psi boost, not the 22 it's now on. My stock turbo 2003 TT did a [email protected] Traction is definitely key, not power, lol
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