[HowTo] Zex 82021 Wet Kit Install - Club4G Forum : Mitsubishi Eclipse 4G Forums - 2006-2012 Eclipse Authority
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Old July 12th, 2009, 10:30 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Question [HowTo] Zex 82021 Wet Kit Install


I figure I can slowly begin to add things in here.

Here is what I've got so far:

(When your kit arrives take out your pretty bottle and nitrous management unit. Spend some time thinking about where you'd like to mount the bottle and where in the engine bay you're going to mount the nitrous management unit. In the long run. You'll be please you did this. Also, this will prevent issues with your lines "not being long enough". I would also suggest that you purchase another set of small worm clamps and 60 PSI fuel line hose (2 Feet (at least 4 inches of line)) from an auto store for the fuel line.)

After you've decided where you'd like your bottle to be attached apply the two mounting rings and tighten them (I would suggest that you mount the rings off the ZEX Sticker. It will help the bottle look good longer.) Grab a marking device. Now place the rings/bottle down to where you'd want to mount it and mark the holes. Now that you've got your drill points marked go ahead and drill them out. Take your bottle, place it back in there with the rings and go ahead and bolt her down (I actually took some RTV Sealant and put it on the washer and screwed everything down to prevent any extra moisture getting into the vehicle).

Example Pic of bottle bolted down:

Now you've got to run your main nitrous line (The longest line that comes in the kit (runs from the bottle to engine bay)). You've got to figure out a way to get the line to run outside the vehicle. I would suggest using a drain plug over drilling more holes:

Notice you have two drain plugs at the very rear. One is covered with a sound dampner seal and the other is open. They are the two things that look like X Men logos.

To make things easy, choose the one that is NOT covered. Push on it. It should pop right out and fall to the ground. You are going to turn the drain plug into a grommet. Choose one of the wedges that is down, not the actual raised X but the lower part and cut it completely out.

Take the main line and remove a seal cover (Leave the other seal on to prevent dirt from getting in your line while you run it to the engine bay). Hook it into the bottle. Run the line through your new custom made grommet and the rest of the line should be laying on the floor (Once your lines are run, I would again suggest sealing the "custom grommet" with RTV Sealant to prevent moisture from getting in).

(No pics...if someone really needs them for this part, let me know. I CAN crawl under there and take them...but your ass better love me for it...bastard.) Now, you've got to run the main line towards the engine bay. The kit comes with a bunch of zip ties and you're about to find out why. Get underneath her and feed the line up over your axle. You'll notice that on the passenger side of the vehicle there are 4 very stiff lines. Those are your brake lines. Feed your main nitrous line along that, zip tying it to it every so often. This will ensure that your line never drags on the ground and also keep it away from the heat of your exhaust piping.

Now it is time to mount your Nitrous Management Unit. There are 4 self tapping screws that ZEX provides you with to do this. (If you followed instruction, you'll know where you can mount it already because YOU PLANNED AHEAD LIKE I SAID) Place the NMU and mark the four holes, just like you did for the bottle. Take your self tapping screws...screw her down.

(OK. Easy stuff is done. Now, pay your ass attention. This is important...I don't want anybody blowin' up and blaming me.) Time to tap your fuel line:

Look at your engine. You'll notice that little red tab that I am pointing at in the picture. That is your fuel line. The end I am pointing at is connected to your fuel rail. (You WILL LOSE some fuel doing this. To prevent this, let the car sit for awhile before trying to tap this. You will still LOSE fuel, but not as much as if there is full pressure within the line.) Disconnect this end of the fuel line.

Follow the line back. Disconnect it from the bottom. Pull the line free. (This section isn't for the faint hearted...there is no turning back. I will tell you all, I called Mitsubishi and ordered a spare line just incase. I keep her in my glove box. I would suggest it. It is a 30 dollar line.) Now, take a cutting tool and cut the line in the middle. You'll notice that the line has a hard inner plastic (Fucking Mitsubishi! Bastards!) which prevents you from placing your T Barb in the line. (You have two options, the course I am going to tell you and cutting the line all the way to the secure points. I'm not sure which is better.) Cut all the soft plastic from the line. This will leave you with the hard plastic line. You are going to cut a small section, maybe 3 inches, of your 60 PSI fuel line you purchased. Cut that 3 inch section into two 1.5 inch sections. Slide these 1.5 inch lines onto the hard fuel line end that you cut. Worm clamp them. Take your T barb and push it into the 60 PSI fuel line until it is touching the hard inner line. Worm clamp that. Now, take the brass elbow that ZEX provided and place it into the opening of the T barb. (You may be asking why I told you to buy two feet...slice the damn line down the middle and rewrap the hard plastic line to look more stock if you'd like.)

Take your ZEX line undo both caps on the line, run one from the brass elbow to the NMU.

The end result should look similar to this:

(I'm assuming if you're running spray, you'll have an aftermarket intake. If not...don't be gay, go get one you cheap bastard) Time to tap your intake. You're given everything you need from ZEX. Detach your MAF Sensor from the intake and then remove the intake from the vehicle. You'll need to tap it after the hole of the MAF Sensor but before the throttle body. (I'd suggest taking a sharp point and marking where you wanna tap her) Take the tap that ZEX provides and tap the intake with that.

Once your tapped, take your ZEX Nozzle and screw it in. Take both your remaining braided ZEX lines and screw then into the NMU.

Place your ZEX Nozzle in the tapped hole in your intake.

Decide which size shot you'd like to run. Use the ZEX Directions for this. They will tell you the adapter you will need for each shot (I'd suggest starting small.). Place them in "arrow" side down and screw them into the ZEX Nozzle.

Your end product should look something like this:
(Again, I CAN get a better shot...let me know)

Now, time to provide the NMU with power. You'll notice that you have 3 wires coming out of the NMU. RED for power, WHITE for throttle position, BLACK for ground. Take your ground wire, use the provided ZEX electronic grounder ring. Look by your ECU, you'll notice that there is a little space there with a few screws going into the chasis:

(Look at the ECU. Now, look to the right of the ECU. There is a bunch of screws that are bolted down in that gap between your chasis and the ECU. Use one of them to ground out the NMU.)

Now, time to tap your Throttle Position Senor wiring. Look at your throttle body:

See the wires hanging out of it from the left side? It looks like a brass plate with a black plastic connector. That is the cluster of wiring your TPS is in. The TPS Wire is the RED WIRE WITH THE WHITE STRIPE. Take the provided splicer/tapper that ZEX provided in its kit. Now, take that wire and the white wire clamp down on it with the splicer/tapper. (Done deal. Pretty easy right?) The end product should look something like this:

(The red thing in the upper right portion of the shot...thats ZEX's splicer/tapper)

Time to run your power wire. (I did this the hard way...through the fender, through the stock grommet. Total pain in the ass.) You've got to figure out a way to get this badboy in the cab area with you. Either a hole in the fire wall, use the stock grommet inside the fender...something. Get it in there.

Figure out where you want to mount your arming switch. Use your ZEX Directions. (I believe they tell you how big the opening needs to be to get drilled. If not, choose your bit carefully). Now drill a small opening. You're going to place the toggle switch in there, place the toggle guard over that, then slip the small lock ring on over that and tighten it down. All three of those pieces come with your kit. The end result should look something like this:


Last edited by Suprsaiyjinbroli; July 29th, 2009 at 04:01 PM.
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Old July 12th, 2009, 12:55 PM   #2 (permalink)
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good shit homie. hopefully u can grab some pix soon?

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