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Old July 31st, 2009, 11:33 AM   #1 (permalink)
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How to install a NX 20915-10 nitrous kit.

This is a write up for the Nitrous Express kit 20915-10.

I know there are going to be a few different write ups on Nitrous install, all of which envolve different kits, and different people. So it should make for a real diverse install process, so that people can chose what they want to do.

The Nitrouse Express kit is a pretty complete kit. The 20915 is a universal kit, so some modifacation did have to be done to make it work on the 4g eclipse.

It comes with these items.

1 10lb nitrous bottle. and bottle brackets.


N2O feed line, This is the line that will go from your bottle mounting point to the engine bay.


Stage 1 N2O solenoid and a stage one fuel solenoid. It is important to note that blue is for Nitrous and red is for Fuel. It is also marked on the solenoids.


Shark Nozzle


N2O and Fuel line. These are the lines that will run from your solenoids to the Shark Nozzle. Please note that you have two different size fittings on these lines. The smaller one runs from the solenoid to the nozzle, and the bigger red line runs from your fuel T to the inlet on your solenoid.


Wire connectors. This will also have all the bolts you need in it two, and if you haven't thrown away your two stock bolts that hold your stock intake on, then you shouldn't have to buy any bolts.


Your jet kit. These little guys are what decides how much power you make. They have numbers on them, so make sure you use the right ones.


Solenoid brackets, also will be used to mount your WOT switch.


WOT switch


60AMP relay and wiring harness.


Toggle with bezzle.


Fuel Tee. VS My homemade Tee. You will need to make yourself a new Tee. The one in the kit sucks balls! It will leak on you, so just go ahead and get the stuff to make one.




NX thread sealer.


Nozzle adapter. This is what your shark nozzle screws into.


Then the items you will need that does not come with the kit are the 50psi fuel line, Zip ties, Worm clamps, and wire Loom.








You will also need black wire tape, but I don't have a picture of that.

Stay tuned! More to come!!
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Next up: Comp cam, Yella Terra rocker arms... Hello 450whp!!!!
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Old July 31st, 2009, 01:45 PM   #2 (permalink)
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The most important thing to do before such an install is to take some time and decided where you want everything, how your going to run your lines, and anything extra that you might need to get before the install.

I did this, and I still had to make adjustments for a few little things that I didn't take account for.

So please take note that this is the way I ran and did everything. If you change something from the way I did it, then this write up will not be 100% accurate, and you will have to make adjustments. There are plenty of things that you can do different, but I feel that, with this NX kit, I did everything about the best way I could, and without major trouble or tons of customizing.

Start off with your bottle location. I chose to mount mine in the trunk, behind the 10" subwoofer, so that I can still utilize my trunk to carrying things around in, as I use it quite often.






Take note on how my line is ran on the above picture. I had to change this in order to get more line up in my engine bay. The only way to run the line like this, and how my bottle is mounted, is to have it coming by the drivers side transmission mount. It will touch and will rub a hole in the line, or smash the line, in time. So I changed my line to be ran like this.


I had to drill another hole, in the floor board and the body pan, to run it like the above picture. I am sorry that I forgot to take a picture of the way I ran it. I will try to get a picture up as soon as I can.

Before you do anything with your Nitrous line please take and tape up the ends so that you don't get anything in the line.

The line is really simple to run to the front of the car. You just follow your stock fuel line and zip tie it as you go, the fuel lines are on the drivers side. Be sure to keep it off anything that moves or has heat that might mess the line up. Run the line up and under the battery tray




Now it's time to hard mount your tank. The best way to do this is to mount it to a soild area. Like where the spare tire would go. But that is not always the most economical way. So instead of just mounting it to the flimsy trunk floor. I mounted half of it to the floor and have to the body. I wanted to angle the tank with the valve more towards the front of the car, but because of the frame of the car I had to do it horizontal to the trunk area.


You will need a drill and a 5/16 drill bit. Use your brackets as a template and mark where you want to drill on your body.

This is the area you will be drilling first. Please take note of the spot welds on your tub. You have to drill right before then, as you have a tube underbrace that gets in the way from there.


After you drill the it should look like this.


Now put the stock trunk board in place and line it up. Go under the car, and with a sharpie mark where the holes needs to be drilled on the board. Drill those holes. Now measure 7" from each hole, to the center of the board. Mark this and drill two more holes for the other bracket. You may use the bracket as a template if needed.


Make sure you run your line first. Mount your bigger bracket down to stock trunk board using the provided mounting screws, then mount the smaller bracket down to the floor and the 4g tub. You will need two people for this, one to crawl under the car and tighten up the bolts and the other to hold the top ones so they don't spin.

Now you may mount your bottle and take the tape off your line and connected it. If you have Nitrous in your bottle at this time please do NOT turn it on.

Now it's time to go mount your solenoids.
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LS2: Longtube headers + cat less x-pipe + Ram air intake + ported intake manifold and Throttle body = 395whp and 380ftlb tq.

Next up: Comp cam, Yella Terra rocker arms... Hello 450whp!!!!
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Old July 31st, 2009, 02:06 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I am running my AEM intake in Short ram mode right now. I think that it would be ok even if I had it in Cold air mode, but it is possible that the fuel solenoid might get in the way. Other then that, this is the best place that I could find to mount the solenoids without making custom mounts.

If you do have an aftermarket intake then you will have a bracket that the stock one use to fit onto, and you will also have two screws left over that you will not need to use anymore. This is the place, and those are the screws, that you need to use to mount the solenoids.


You will be using these guys to mount the solenoids.


They are really bendable and can be made to almost any configuration.

Start buy putting the NPT fittings in the solenoids first. You will use the red thread sealer that NX gave you with the kit. Do not use any tefflon tape.




NX states that to little is better then to much, but I had leaks on mine and had to break them loose and apply more thread sealer to get them to stop leaking. The main thing is to make sure that the threads that will be used have enough sealer on them to get in the grooves of the threads. You do not want the stuff to be dripping off, but you will need to us enough to get it to work.

Also take note!! One of the NPT fittings has a screen in it. This screen is for the Nitrous Solenoid. It will keep debris out of the solenoid. Make 100% sure you put this NPT fitting in the proper place. It is easy to see the one with the screen in it.

Remember that the bigger fittings will go into the Nitrous inlet and the fuel inlet. The smaller ones goes into the outlet, or the bottom of the solenoids.

Now mount the solenoids to there bracket. Make sure to mount your inlet facing towards the back of the car. This will make it easier to hook up the lines. Mount the Blue Nitrous solenoid on the back bolt hole because it is bigger, and mount the smaller red fuel solenoid on the front bolt hole.


Bend them as needed to mount the fuel and nitrous lines. And, to clear the shift levers. It is a good idea, once you get all the lines put together, to have someone shift through all the gears and make sure nothing hits.

Now onto the shark nozzle!
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LS2: Longtube headers + cat less x-pipe + Ram air intake + ported intake manifold and Throttle body = 395whp and 380ftlb tq.

Next up: Comp cam, Yella Terra rocker arms... Hello 450whp!!!!

Last edited by 360jeepboy; July 31st, 2009 at 02:09 PM.
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Old July 31st, 2009, 02:19 PM   #4 (permalink)
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The nozzle is really easy to install. You just need a drill bit and some blue RTV.



You will need to drill a 9/16 hole in the intake tube to mount the shark nozzle.




Make sure you clean out any metal bits that might be left in your intake before you put it back on.

Now take your nozzle mounting hardware and put some RTV one the one with the male threads, enough to seal any air from coming in, but not to much to glob up everywhere. Insert in from the inside of the intake and poke it through the hole. Now screw on the female end and tighten down with two wrenchs. Insert the shark nozzle into the fitting and position the nozzle so that it is spraying back towards the thorttle body. Hook up your lines now and route them to your solenoids and position your solenoids to not have any stess on the lines.


It is a good idea to mount the lines down so that they don't flop around. This is what I did.


You will do that last though because you will need the intake off to do your fuel Tee.
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LS2: Longtube headers + cat less x-pipe + Ram air intake + ported intake manifold and Throttle body = 395whp and 380ftlb tq.

Next up: Comp cam, Yella Terra rocker arms... Hello 450whp!!!!
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Old July 31st, 2009, 02:35 PM   #5 (permalink)
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The fuel T that is supplied with the NX kit is crap! I don't know what they were thinking. I'm sure it flows good and everything, but they just don't give you enough space to worm clamp your hose to it, and it is easy to come off.

So I went to O-rellys and got all the stuff to make my own fuel Tee. Advance, and AutoZone didn't have crap.


I used the red thread locker that NX supplied to put my Tee together.

To use this fuel Tee you will have to get rid of the clip on style plastic line that Mitsubishi gives you from the factory. There is nothing wrong with the line, it is just better not to cut it and try to make the Tee work with it.

This is what you should NOT do.




Instead, use the 50 psi fuel line that you bought. Completely take off the clip on style fuel line from your fuel rail, and the metal fuel line that comes from your tank. Note that you have plenty of room on these metal lines to put the hose on, and clamp it down using the worm clamps you bought.


Once you run your line from the fuel line to the fuel rail, to decide how much you will need (remember not to use to much so that it gets in the way of your battery). Then cut at the desired location and insert your fuel Tee, and clamp down using your worm clamps. Now run the line and hook up your Fuel solenoid.


Take note that the above picture is with the Crappy Tee that came with the kit, I had to use this picture because I didn't get a picture of the other Tee.

Remember to check everthing for leaks once you start your car!

Now it's time to put your WOT switch in!
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LS2: Longtube headers + cat less x-pipe + Ram air intake + ported intake manifold and Throttle body = 395whp and 380ftlb tq.

Next up: Comp cam, Yella Terra rocker arms... Hello 450whp!!!!
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Old July 31st, 2009, 02:46 PM   #6 (permalink)
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The WOT switch was actually really easy to install. There is one bolt that is behind the gas peddle. This is the perfect place to mount the switch.


You should have one of your mounting brackets left from your kit. You will need this to install your WOT switch.

They are three big holes on the mount. You will need to trim off the last hole, and round it off, to get it to fit in the proper place.


Then place the mount in a vice and bend at a 90 degree angle. Please take not where I bent mine.




Now mount your WOT switch onto the mount with the activation lever pointing towards the passanger area of the car. You will need to bend, or cut, a little bit of the lever so that it clears. Be careful not to mess up the WOT switch. Also make sure you do not over tighten the switch onto the mount.


Now install onto the bolt behind the gas peddle and adjust to where it kicks on as your going into WOT( wide open throttle)




Now lets wire everything up, and we are done!!
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LS2: Longtube headers + cat less x-pipe + Ram air intake + ported intake manifold and Throttle body = 395whp and 380ftlb tq.

Next up: Comp cam, Yella Terra rocker arms... Hello 450whp!!!!
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Old July 31st, 2009, 03:16 PM   #7 (permalink)
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The wring is the hardest part. Not because it is hard hooking up wires, but because it is tedious.

They give you a rely and some 16 and 18 gauge wire. It is a good idea to get somemore 18 gauge wire as they really don't give you enough with the kit.



In the instructions it will give you a diagram of how the wires should be ran.

You will also need to drill a hole in your fire wall to run your solenoid wires into the cab. It is a good idea to use a rubber gromet so that the metal doesn't cut the wire. I also used black electrical tape and wire loom to make everything look nice.

First off you need to ground your solenoids. I just grounded them to the mounting bracket they are on, because it was the easiest thing to do.


Then run solenoid wires in the cab.


I'm sorry but I didn't get lots of pictures of the wiring, because when I was doing it, it was late and dark and I was stressed out... sorry.

Hook all the proper wires to the relay, which will be mounted under the dash. You will also need to mount your arming switch. I plan on going with a more hidden mount, so I just put mine where it is for temp use. You will need to tape into your fuse box and run the relay to a 12v constant, and the arming switch to a 12v switchable.

Once you get everything pluged up you need to check and make sure both of your solenoids are working. Make sure you do not have your nitrous pluged up and on, because you do not want to shoot nitrous into your engine with it off.

Once eveything is done then you should check for leaks. Make sure you start with the 35shot jets first and work your way up.



I will be doing a write up on the Gen-x2 kit when I get it and install it.

I really hope that this write up helps people in the installation of the Nitrous Express kit.

Thank you,

Kennan
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LS2: Longtube headers + cat less x-pipe + Ram air intake + ported intake manifold and Throttle body = 395whp and 380ftlb tq.

Next up: Comp cam, Yella Terra rocker arms... Hello 450whp!!!!

Last edited by 360jeepboy; July 31st, 2009 at 03:31 PM.
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Old July 31st, 2009, 03:47 PM   #8 (permalink)
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That's bit only spraying nos but more gas as well?? I guess it makes sense. Isteaf of adding to gas line could you use larger primarys and just tune them for the nos?
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Old August 3rd, 2009, 09:28 AM   #9 (permalink)
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good write up jeep
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