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Old March 11th, 2012, 01:23 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Delete intake manifold resonator/tb spacer

Okay guys, today I am showing you how to delete your resonator that is attached to the intake manifold. If you do not know which one I am talking about it is the black resonator in the picture below. In the process I also showed how to do the tb spacer.



In order to do this you will need to buy a 35/38mm flange block off plate.

I ordered mine here: FRS Steel External Wastegate Block-Off Flange Deltagate/Tial 35mm 38mm

TB SPACER INSTALL
What this does- This spaces our your tb from your intake manifold. This helps reduce the transfer of heat, helping cool down the tb, which in turn cools down the air entering your engine.

1. First step is to disconnect your negative battery terminal.

2. Now the second step as always is to remove your intake manifold cover. It has 5 10mm bolts.



3. Next, take off your intake. Rather it be stock or aftermarket.
4. Now remove your tb, it is held in by 4 12mm bolts, also don't forget to remove the coolant lines (if you have not done the bypass) and the throttle positioning sensor.

Make sure while removing the tb to catch your stock gasket, sometimes it will drop off, other times it will stick to the manifold.


Note, stop here and go to the "Resonator delete section" if wanting to delete the resonator. If only wanting to do the tb spacer, then feel free to proceed.

5. Now take your spacer you have bought, and coat both sides of it with some sealant and apply it to the tb. I used Permatex black silicone. This helps prevent a vacuum leak.




6. Now make sure the tab on your spacer is towards the top and towards the cab of the car. Look at your stock gasket to see what I am talking about.

7. Go ahead and mount your tb back, hand tighten all four bolts until they are nice and snug. Then torque them up and get nice and tight. *Remember to tighten in a cross pattern, same way you do your wheels*.

8. Put your intake back on, connect your battery and start her up. Make sure to check for vacuum leaks, antifreeze leaks, etc. If the car is idling extremely high (1500+ rpms) then it probably has a vacuum leak.

9. After install, if the car is acting weird, then retighten the bolts on your tb. The spacer tends to shrink/expand and can cause a vacuum leak. I tightened them up periodically over the whole next week just to make sure.

BAM! Now you have your tb spacer.

INTAKE MANIFOLD RESONATOR DELETE
What this does- Resonators are a bane to any drivers existence. They are placed to dub down intake or exhaust systems. It is an open space, connected to your manifold that holds air. This doesn't seem like a bad thing, but instead of air entering your manifold and going directly to your engine, it circulates through the resonator, resulting in a less fuel efficient, and less powerful engine. By doing this you will notice a slight deeper growl, as well as gain a bit more top end power. It also makes the engine look much more clean

Note, please see "tb spacer intall" steps 1-4 for the beginning steps to "intake manifold resonator delete"

This will help a lot http://tearstone.com/eclipsefsm/2006...05800E-13A.pdf

1. Start by depressurizing your fuel lines. You can either:
A. Just unscrew your gas cap, and let it sit for awhile, or
B. Disconnect your fuel pump under your back drivers side seat, and then run your car until it stalls out.
I just unscrewed my gas cap.

2. From where you are now, we are going to start disconnecting a lot of wires/sensors so that we have some room to work with. This can be done in any particular order, but I will show you which way I did.

A. Start by disconnecting your EGR valve connector. It is directly under the tb.


B. Now remove your ignition coil connectors. There are four of them total.
Here you see one disconnected (left) and one connected (right)


C. Disconnect your fuel injector connectors. These are directly below the ignition coil connectors.



D. Remove your manifold absolute pressure sensor. I unbolted it (two 8mm bolts I believe) and pulled it straight up.


E. Now remove your evaporative emission purge solenoid connector. This is above and to the right side of where the tb is.


F. Now remove your knock sensor connector, and your power steering pressure switch connector. These two are almost side by side. They are on the left side of the manifold, and down a bit, near the oil dipstick holster.


G. Remove your PCV Hose, it connects your intake manifold to your valve cover.


H. Now remove bolt from your two rocker cover brackers, these are 10mm bolts. Your rocker cover bracket is the metal bracket in the picture below. There are two of these.


I. And last but not least you can remove the clips holding this mess of wires to you top timing belt cover. Just push the tab in and pull these clips straight up. (This is not 100% necessary. Just provides more room to work with.)


Now you should have plenty of room to move that mess of wires around. This will help a lot with the next step.

3. In order to remove the resonator, we have to remove the fuel rail, otherwise you can not get it out without breaking it or something else. Hopefully you depressurized your lines some to prevent as much lost fuel as possible. To do this locate your fuel line. It is right next to where your tb would be located and connects directly to your fuel rail.

To do this, pull that red tab straight up, and pull the fuel line out (back towards the side of the car). Have some towels ready to throw over it to catch any fuel that may spew out.

Last edited by jhun35; March 11th, 2012 at 01:48 AM.
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Old March 11th, 2012, 01:24 AM   #2 (permalink)
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4. Now we need to remove your fuel rail. That is the metal bar the fuel line was connected too (between the intake manifold and the head of the engine.) Your fuel injectors are connected to this so be very careful not to break any O-rings. There are two 12mm bolts holding it on. The bolts screw into black insulators, so be careful not to lose them. I tried to get a few pics of where they screwed in and where the injectors went, but not that great.



Here is the fuel rail off


5. Now we have to unbolt the resonator. It has four 10mm bolts.
Two are behind where the fuel rail use to be.



The resonator should look like this.


6. Now take your block off plate

and apply some sealant to the back (side going against manifold), I used Permatex black silicone.


7. Bolt it on, using the two bolts from the resonator. Make sure to get on very tight to help prevent a vacuum leak. Check this over the next couple of days to make sure it remains snug.


As you can see it gives everything a much better look.

8. Now carefully put everything back together. Make sure everything is snug, all sensors and wires are connected.

Note: If you did the tb spacer, then please see steps 5-9 of "tb spacer install" section up top.

9. Start your engine up, and check for air leaks. If everything is good to go, then take her out for a spin and see what you think!!

Thanks guys!

Last edited by jhun35; March 11th, 2012 at 01:29 AM.
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Old March 11th, 2012, 06:55 AM   #3 (permalink)
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good write up!! but boy am i glad i dont have a GS, it seems very complicated haha
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Old March 11th, 2012, 07:58 AM   #4 (permalink)
tUNED.
 
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i wonder who u got that idea from ??
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Old March 11th, 2012, 08:00 AM   #5 (permalink)
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and by the way im guessing u got ur thermoblock spacers on ok ??
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Old March 11th, 2012, 08:03 AM   #6 (permalink)
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E rep. Good write up.
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Old March 11th, 2012, 11:49 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FeaRlezZ View Post
and by the way im guessing u got ur thermoblock spacers on ok ??
actually didn't get the intake manifold. Going to do that next week. I need to put the car up on ramps to get those bottom bolts.
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Old March 11th, 2012, 12:05 PM   #8 (permalink)
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good write up.engine looks so much cleaner without that hunk of junk plastic in there.
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Old March 11th, 2012, 12:20 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
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good write up.engine looks so much cleaner without that hunk of junk plastic in there.
Thanks man, and much agreed. I showed my dad and he said the exact same thing.
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Old September 27th, 2012, 06:38 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Seems like the perfect opportunity to "brand" the manifold.
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Old September 27th, 2012, 08:09 AM   #11 (permalink)
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idk how i havent seen this thread earlier...

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Old September 27th, 2012, 08:22 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Just ordered the block off plate. My manifold resonator will be off next weekend.
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Old September 27th, 2012, 09:04 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Just ordered the block off plate. My manifold resonator will be off next weekend.
good luck man! i think i may try this, that would make me resonatorless.:beer:

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Old September 27th, 2012, 03:35 PM   #14 (permalink)
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That's it, I'm getting a window sticker that says "Resonatorless".



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Old September 27th, 2012, 04:57 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Note on the phrase above within the actual "How To": It says, "Make sure to get on very tight to help prevent a vacuum leak."

You're torquing into an aluminum intake manifold. Depending on the length of the wrench you are using, "very tight" could ruin your day and your intake.

Here is what I am going to do: Torque each bolt the same as the throttle body: 21 ft-lbs. That plus the black sealant should be all it needs.
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Old September 27th, 2012, 05:22 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Btw. The intake manifold strips extremely easy. Just sayin. Only one bolt for me and havent figured out a plan of correction yet.
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Old October 6th, 2012, 01:07 PM   #17 (permalink)
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That was a fun morning!

Hello beautiful, doing anything this weekend?


Some notes:
  • I didn't see a torque spec for the manifold resonator bolts, but 21 ft-lbs (ala throttle body) worked. I start sucking air, I'm re-evaluating, but it feels right.
  • Torque spec for the fuel rail (probably the most sensitive bolts you'll crank for this) is 98 INCH-lbs, +- 8 inch-lbs, which equals 8.17 ft-lbs +- .66. My wrench is calibrated FROM 10 ft-lbs, but turning it a hair below zero (~8 and change) seemed to do the trick. No fuel leaks = good.
    The Fuel Rail: http://tearstone.com/eclipsefsm/2006...05800E-13A.pdf
  • The fuel line sprayed just a little when I removed it from the fuel rail. Already had a rag under it so no biggie. Think spraying a Windex bottle once, fairly hard, and that's about what squirted out. I'd only had the gas cap off for 5-10 minutes. I'm a bit alarmed at how stupid easy it is to disconnect that fuel line. Impressive engineering.
  • The fuel rail ... well ... it's job is delivering fuel to the injectors, so ... it will retain some fuel. Just be aware of it when handling. you'll spill a bit of fuel if you tip it the wrong way.
  • Do everything in this HowTo, don't skip steps. I tried. I was confused why I was disconnecting the EGR and TB, until it came time to disconnect the fuel line. Then I disconnected the EGR and TB.
  • Under the fuel rail bolts, there are rubber washers. These are reversible. Don't drop them when removing/re-installing. Expect them to be there and get your hands on them before they fall.
  • I bought my block-off plate from Himni Racing. Tial 38mm Block Off Flange
  • The block off plate scoots around a little bit because the bolt holes are larger than the manifold bolts. I let torque and Permatex Black be my friend, and gave it a good eyeball alignment. Don't think there is any position that would allow air in as long as the bolts are tight and the seal is good, but I want it to look like it belongs there.

Here's the fun:

Another view of the ignition coil connectors, two on the left unplugged, the two on the right plugged in:



The fuel rail is re-installed, but that's about it. Look at that, I did skip a step, I left the throttle body on the car.



Different view of fuel rail




All Done!



Thanks for the HOWTO, it was perfect! I completely agree, engine looks a lot better without that useless hunk of plastic.
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Old October 6th, 2012, 03:51 PM   #18 (permalink)
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I might be crazy, and it may just be that I did a better PCM reset this time, but post-resonator delete, I think the idle is smoother. Quieter too, and the purpose of the resonator is...???
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Old October 6th, 2012, 05:57 PM   #19 (permalink)
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I might be crazy, and it may just be that I did a better PCM reset this time, but post-resonator delete, I think the idle is smoother. Quieter too, and the purpose of the resonator is...???
it cleans the air, your not going to gain anything at all from this without a tune. In fact youll lose until you get it tuned.

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Old October 8th, 2012, 09:32 AM   #20 (permalink)
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it cleans the air, your not going to gain anything at all from this without a tune. In fact youll lose until you get it tuned.

sent from Jersey
i didnt notice any loss when i did mine.car had slightly better throttle response and looked a ton better
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Old October 8th, 2012, 09:33 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Quote:
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i didnt notice any loss when i did mine.car had slightly better throttle response and looked a ton better
I believe my throttle response is better too.
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Old October 8th, 2012, 09:48 AM   #22 (permalink)
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it also eliminates a little extra heat from going into the im.that resonator does sit right by the engine.
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Old October 8th, 2012, 10:05 AM   #23 (permalink)
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I've read a little about airflow and resonators. There are opinions out there. Mine, which is shared, says "They disrupt airflow and quiet the engine. Let's have freer flow of air and, if necessary, more noise. Delete the stupid things." They are deleted with impunity, and good things are (albeit anecdotal) reported after. I've seen a few explanations that look like this: "Use a coke bottle as a whistle. Imagine that sound wave cancelling out another. Now you know what a resonator does". This seems to map very neatly to the engine cover resonator that results in the $6 "butt plug" mod.

There is the opinion (that I haven't seen in many places) that states that the resonator does all of the above, and also gives shock waves a place to go when the intake valves slam shut on your airflow, until the next one opens. This seems to map neatly to the design/positioning of the manifold resonator, but that still seems like an awfully small hole for shock waves from all 4 intake runners to successfully target.

I don't know how long an intake valve is open, or if overlap exists between intake valves. But I do know that on NA engines, the valve opening while the piston is dropping creates the suction, that creates the demand for air, which results in airflow. The airflow is stagnant until the valve opens and the piston drops. When the valve closes, it's demand for airflow stops with it.

The shock wave explanation would make a LOT of sense to me if the car were using forced induction, but there aren't any 4G GS's out there to my knowledge that rolled off the lot with FI intakes.

I'm trying to think scientifically about this, if there are other, better explanations, I'm open to them.

...and maybe it's time to splinter this from the HOWTO and put it in another thread?
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Old December 20th, 2012, 03:46 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Done!

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Old December 27th, 2012, 02:57 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Think I will try this out
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Old December 27th, 2012, 04:27 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Can't edit posts in a HowTo or I would have dropped this up further. New thread for discussion of intake Resonators.

https://club4g.org/board/eclipse-perf...really-do.html
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Old December 27th, 2012, 04:58 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Just ordered the block off plate, be here next week :-)
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Old January 9th, 2013, 03:45 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Will this pop a code ?
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Old January 9th, 2013, 03:59 PM   #29 (permalink)
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I don't tolerate codes. Mine's been deleted for a few months with no issues. No codes.
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Old January 9th, 2013, 04:49 PM   #30 (permalink)
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I don't tolerate codes. Mine's been deleted for a few months with no issues. No codes.
Thank you, i shall do this once i have some down time.
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Old January 9th, 2013, 07:13 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Will this pop a code ?
no
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Old January 9th, 2013, 07:15 PM   #32 (permalink)
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i still haven't put mine on yet, its been sitting at my shop just waiting for me to pick it up, hopefully i will get it sunday afternoon, and have it on by next week
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Old January 15th, 2013, 10:03 AM   #33 (permalink)
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I did the delete last night, and now my intake whistles when I get on it:-) thanks for the idea
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Old October 5th, 2013, 01:42 AM   #34 (permalink)
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Any idea if an acrylic block off plate would work? I'm assuming since the stock resonator is plastic, acrylic might work without melting and allow for some branding on the block off plate...any thoughts?
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Old October 9th, 2013, 06:44 AM   #35 (permalink)
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Any idea if an acrylic block off plate would work? I'm assuming since the stock resonator is plastic, acrylic might work without melting and allow for some branding on the block off plate...any thoughts?
That's a good question, but something tells me not to do it, the intake manifold gets so freaking hot, I'm sure it would melt it....
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Old October 9th, 2013, 10:21 AM   #36 (permalink)
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Any idea if an acrylic block off plate would work? I'm assuming since the stock resonator is plastic, acrylic might work without melting and allow for some branding on the block off plate...any thoughts?
Like Colten said, don't go the acrylic route. It'll melt and just cause all sorts of problems. If you are interested in branding a plate you can do what I'm going to do and just take the metal block off plate that jhun provided in the original post to a trophy shop and they should be able to do it, or at least point you in the direction of someone who can.
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Old April 9th, 2014, 07:52 PM   #37 (permalink)
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got everything done but cant get the red tab on the fuel line to go back on help?!?!?!?!
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Old April 9th, 2014, 08:01 PM   #38 (permalink)
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false alarm haha got it
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Old May 17th, 2014, 05:59 PM   #39 (permalink)
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where did you get your tb spacer?
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Old July 10th, 2014, 01:28 PM   #40 (permalink)
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Im about to order mine too!!! Cant wait to hear that whistle!! Really hoping there is a noticeable throttle response!
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