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Old April 14th, 2012, 12:47 AM   #1 (permalink)
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RRE Headers (GT)

Okay so here is a step by step process of the RRE headers install on a GT.

Time: 3 to 6+ hours

Difficulty: Moderate, basic tools and know how

Tools :

02 sensor socket
torque wrench
swivel
14mm sockets, reg and deep-well, 6 point preferred
various extensions, total length needed at one point is around 3 to 4 feet.
angle grinder (if bolts are super rusted it may be easier to cut them off, try to not cut the spring loaded ones connected to mid pipe.)
17mm-19mm sockets (this depends on if you already have modifications to exhaust)
breaker bar
LOTS of PB blaster
10mm socket
12mm socket
14mm wrenchs
wire brush
pipe wrench

Additional materials needed: MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THESE!

HEAT WRAP
2 manifold gaskets
3 flange gaskets
1 cone gasket
Longer bolts/ nuts to mate headers with Y pipe. grade 8 or higher

Additional materials suggested: just in case you break a stud or want replace one that backs out due to rust, depends on age and condition of vehicle

1-2 manifold studs
14 new stud nuts/ washers

Additional tasks recommended to knock out: these will be done much cheaper when you can just take the physical part up there without being attached to the car. will save you hundreds by doing the flex and bung weld while they are off the vehicle.

1.Motor mounts
2Upgrade flex pipe
3.weld wideband 02 bung into mid pipe.




okay now that we are done with that for now lets get started.

Step one: Remove heat shields and 02 sensors (4). the rears are some what similar. only top shield needs to be removed on front, more the better for the rear. the long extensions and swivel will have to be used for the rear lower 02. this is a tad bit difficult but i found that if you rear through the wheel well i could seed the 02 socket very well with my hand with the swivel attached and have a second guy then snap in the extension from above the engine bay.


once you have all 4 sensors and the shields taken off we will work on removing the Y pipe.

Step 2:
You will have 2 bolts on each pipe connection, 4 regular and 2 spring loaded that attach to mid pipe. All are labeled below in blue arrows. green arrow show where bolts are to remove the y pipe once all pipe connections are free. Keep in mind the side you see in the picture is the side facing the ground normally. Also note that the two smaller green arrows are pointing to bolt holes that cannot be seen in this view, NOT the two bolts clearly seen, although either would be sufficient when removing. Arrows labeled "a" are where spring loaded bolts go.


Step 3: Remove the mid pipe with 2 more bolts that connect to your cat back

THIS WOULD BE A GOOD TIME TO TAKE BOTH THESE ITEMS TO THE LOCAL MUFFLER SHOP TO HAVE 02 BUNG WELD AND NEW FLEX PIPE INSTALLED IF YOU CHOOSE TO

Step 4: We will take off the heat shield that starts about half way up your cat back and extends to the rear of the engine bay. there are five 10mm bolts to remove this shield and is necessary for clearance when removing rear manifold: Pictures to come of bolt locations!

Step 5: Remove EGR valve from Intake manifold and rear i used a 12mm socket for the top nuts and a small pipe wrench to remove the bottom nut, not sure on exact size. Picture to come of EGR Location

Step 6: Remove front manifold by first removing bracket located near front motor mount that connects the manifold to the block, there is one 17 mm bolt on each side and this bracket can be removed and thrown away. NEXT remove 7 14mm nuts on the studs. BE CAREFUL not to break studs as this will cause big headache! use breaker bar and be gentle, use generous amounts of PB blaster before hand.
it should come off fairly easy once nuts are loose, pry off and throw away old manifold gasket. then plug holes with shop rags and use wire brush or very light sand paper to clean surface where new gasket will go. Arrows labeled "L" are for lower edge of flange.


Step 7: Remove the rear manifold in the same fashion. first completely removing support bracket than removing the 7 nuts. when this comes loose you will need to get finagle the manifold to squeeze it out. i slid it off the studs then lifted it behind the IM and got it complete vertical and then slid the back elbow where the mid pipe would normally run through and with that heat shield removed it should be pretty easy to slide out. remember to clog holes and lightly sand or use wire brush to clean surface for new gaskets!

THIS WOULD B A GREAT TIME TO DO YOUR MOTOR MOUNTS!


After that make sure to put all the new gaskets in and reverse this order and you should be good to go! im sure i'll think of more stuff and such and revise but i think this is a good start for what i had available.

Feel free to remind me of stuff or ask questions!

P.S. The front RRE header is the Smaller one!
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Old April 14th, 2012, 03:27 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Great write up Jason! +rep Needs a few more pics thoughh
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Old April 14th, 2012, 08:24 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Thanks. I'll be doing this soon and curious... A, what's the torque on the manifold bolts? b, did you get a whole new j pipe or had the flex replaced? C, where did you use the heat wrap, or didn't you have your pipes coated?
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Old April 14th, 2012, 08:31 AM   #4 (permalink)
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I'm going to be reading over this a lot in the next few weeks. Planning on buying RRE headers in the next few weeks.


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Old April 14th, 2012, 08:41 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Just waiting on mine from rre. Any day now.
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Audio: Eclipse 5030 deck, RE Audio xxx6.5c Speakers, Re Audio mono block and quad channel amps, Stinger wires and caps, Optima BlueTop, second skin.
Performance:Stiffy, Injen CAI, RRE short tube headers, S-T rear sway bar, E-S bushings, Eibach sport line springs, Port and Polish intake.
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Old April 14th, 2012, 08:42 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TemplarRadix08GT View Post
Thanks. I'll be doing this soon and curious... A, what's the torque on the manifold bolts? b, did you get a whole new j pipe or had the flex replaced? C, where did you use the heat wrap, or didn't you have your pipes coated?
your best bet for bolt torque is to bookmark, read and read again the Service Manual from tearstone.com (also available here somewhere). it has EVERYTHING a mechanic would need to fix our cars.
you can re-use the stock y-(or j-)pipe, no problem... RRE experiemented with a custom one but didnt find any gains to make it market-worthy.
heat wrap could / should be used to wrap the new headers from head to toe, litterally. or you can get them Jet-/ceramic-coated.

RRE can do it for you, in my case it worked out to the exact same price as i was quoted locally.

Great write-up !
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Old April 14th, 2012, 08:42 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mdixon23 View Post
I'm going to be reading over this a lot in the next few weeks. Planning on buying RRE headers in the next few weeks.


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congrats Mike ! these headers make a helluva difference, no doubt !!!
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Old April 14th, 2012, 11:09 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Great write up Jason! +rep Needs a few more pics thoughh
thanks to everyone, i will be putting more pics up for bolt locations and such when i get home from work travels!
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Old October 18th, 2013, 08:56 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Going to attempt this tomorrow or Sunday, at least the removal part anyway.
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Old October 18th, 2013, 11:15 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Going to attempt this tomorrow or Sunday, at least the removal part anyway.
Nice. I still have stock exhaust with the rre headers in and the car sounds way better with those headers! I also don't throw any codes either. Hope everything goes good for ya man!
Also looking at that shitty y pipe,man I got to get rid of that and do a custom one. That looks really restrictive!
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Old October 19th, 2013, 07:37 AM   #11 (permalink)
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That is true. I may research it locally, for a custom Y pipe. Probably at a later date, though.
The biggest obstacle I am dreading is those rusty bolts. Some of those look terribly corroded. I really hope I can get them all off without breaking any.
I plan to use the "Rust Buster" method, of acetone and ATF. Supposedly it takes only 50+-lbs to take off bolts that have that stuff on them....
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Old October 19th, 2013, 07:59 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Ya,hit em with that and let them soak for a bit. A couple members helped me with my headers and we had issues with those bolts,but we used wd40. Don't know which is better. Another issue was getting your dam hands in there on those bolts in the back one. Extensions are your friend at that point! Lol.
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Old October 19th, 2013, 04:24 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Yeah, I grabbed a few socket adapters so I can use my 1/2 breaker bar with my 3/8 sockets and extensions. I think I have a 20 inch and a 6 inch extension.
I picked up some nice universal deep sockets just in case I strip one. Those should grab on pretty good, that and a nice 14" pipe wrench out to do the job.
I have almost a full can of PB blaster, so I hope that will be enough.
I think I should be set on the tools, I guess we will see.
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Old October 20th, 2013, 04:29 PM   #14 (permalink)
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So, I was unable to start this today, I will start tomorrow. I will try to get up some more pictures along the way to aid this how too.
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Old October 21st, 2013, 07:01 PM   #15 (permalink)
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I had to stop the install, I was unable to remove the flange bolts without a torch. I brought it to a mechanic.
In any case, do beware of the radiator overflow tube, as I broke mine off (Removing the top o2 sensor), and had to rig it back together.
Overall, it was not terribly hard for what I was able to do.
I would recommend anyone trying this first before bringing to a mechanic.
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Old October 22nd, 2013, 06:29 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Rre did tests with the j pipe, they did a custom one and only added 3whp and lowered throttle response time.
I had mine ceramic costed by Justin at detective coatings. Turned out great, still in good shape too.
My biggest problem was getting a good angle to get rear 02 sensors off, so I broke them off and got new sensors. Lol.
Theres tons of room with the rear header too. Wondered about making the j pipe go up near rear bank for s turbo... At least 3 cubic foot back there...
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