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Old June 2nd, 2012, 10:47 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Install Energy Suspension Motor Mount Bushings

Okay guys, I got these in over the weekend, all I can say is AWESOME! Car runs so much smoother at WOT, shifts smooth, and feels great taking off. Downshifting is also much more responsive. I'm very impressed and want to share the install with you guys.

https://club4g.org/board/part-reviews...or-mounts.html

What you'll need
Quarter and/or half inch rachet
a couple long extensions
14mm closed end wrench
14mm socket
17mm socket
Drill
Dremal
Rubber Mallet
Air hammer or sledge hammer w/ chisel (you want to try to get an air hammer)
Table Vise
Multiple pieces of wood, many different sizes
Flat head screw driver
Two jacks or jack stands
Some type of oil or lube
Your new set of bushings

Picture of instructions



Front Mount Install

1. Okay first jack up the car, I chose to jack the drivers side, just seemed easier to me. Place a jackstand if you would like
2. Now take another jack and a block of wood, and use it to hold up the engine. I placed this underneath my transmission. This is to hold the engine in place while you have the mount out.


3. Now, lets go ahead and remove the bolt going through the mount, holding it to the engine. The bolt is a 14mm with a 14mm nut on the passenger side end. Use your rachet and 14mm wrench to loose the nut and bolt. I used a small piece of pipe as a breaker bar on my rachet, and used two wrenches to tq on the nut. It wasn't hard to break loose. Continue doing this until you get the bolt out.





4. Now that the bolt is out, lets go ahead and remove the two 17mm bolts holding the subframe in place.



5. Once removed, go ahead and remove the stock bushing for the subframe. Remove the lower bushings first. If yours are like mine, the inner metal sleeves were extremely rusted. I had to use a flat head screw diver, and use it to cut through the top bushings, and seperate the sleeves from them. After a bit of doing that and pulling with a set of pliers the stock sleeves came out, and I then pulled the subframe down and pushed the top bushings out.


You can see all the rust I had to scrape out with the screwdriver

6. Next we need to remove the bolts holding the motor mount on. They are two 14mm bolts, but getting to them will be a bit tricky. So we need to do something first. Looking into the engine (at least on the automatic) you will see this thing (not sure what it is)



It is held on by 4 bolts and sits right overtop the back bolt to the motor mount. I took out three bolts, and loosened the back drivers side one so I could pivot it out of the way. Go ahead and do this.


7. Now you should be able to pivot that thing and see the back bolt, the front bolt was viewable before. Now using a rachet and some very long extensions, as well as a breaker bar, go ahead and remove the two bolts.




Now the mount should slide right out!!


Pretty upgrade pic


8. What you need to do now is get a drill, and get ready to get that nasty stock rubber mount out of the housing. I drilled multiple holes in each side. Then started drilling them from the side and basically used the drill to cut them out. Try to get as close to the outside metal sleeve as possible.

Last edited by jhun35; June 2nd, 2012 at 11:59 AM.
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Old June 2nd, 2012, 10:47 AM   #2 (permalink)
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9. Once out, comes the most annoying part. Removing that thin metal sleeve that right against the mount housing. This:


First place the mount in a table vise, grab a saw that'll fit, and start cutting throught the metal sleeve in multiple places to weaken it. Becareful as the mount housing isn't all that hard to cut and chip either.

(Yeah overkill I know lol)

10. After you cut through the sleeve some, you are going to want to pull out a hammer and chisel (I suggest an Air hammer. here is why)
I hammered and chiseled for about 2 hours on this thing, i could get the ends folded in, but it wasn't budging as far as coming out. My dad showed up and gave me his air hammer shortly after. I set the mount on a board outside, held it down with my foot and used the air hammer. The air hammer took the sleeve out in about 30 seconds. SO I suggest buying one or borrowing one w.e you have to do, GET ONE. It made it so much easier. Once out take a dremal and smooth out any rough edges and burs.


Metal sleeve out


11. Okay so hopefully you got the sleeve out okay. If you did then it's time for the next step. Lets get that big sexy mount bushing in that housing!! This can be a bit tricky though. You have to line everything up just right, and even then some innovation will have to take place. I used a table vise, and honestly don't think I could had gotten it in without it. First go ahead and put the inner sleeve into the new bushing (the sleeve with the wider lip is for the front mount. A big issue with these bushings is that one side want to go in before then other, thus making it lopsided and causing you to start over. Lube up the inside of the housing and outside of the bushing. I suggest using a piece of wood behind the housing, and one behind the bushing to try and even out the pressure. Now start applying pressure slowly. It'll look like the bushing is too big, and at times like you are going to tear it up, but it'll fit and you won't.
Eventually one side will pop in. ONCE THIS HAPPENS STOP APPLYING PRESSURE FOR THE TIME BEING Notice which side didn't go in. Flip the housing and bushing over in the table vise, so that the side that didn't pop in is faceing upward. Re apply pressure, and take a piece of wood, and a rubber mallet, and slowly tap the edge of the bushing into the housing. work your way around the bushing and eventually you will get the entire bushing into the housing. Once this happens, apply pressure until you cannot push it any further in.

Now you will notice that the outer edge of the bushing is preventing you from pushing it any further through the housing. This is because the bushing sticks out slightly further than the housing itself. What I did was take two small skinny blocks of wood, and placed them in between the outer edges of the housing and the table vise. So I could use the vise to push it the rest of the way through. After about a minute I had the mount completely in. Clean the mount up and go ahead and reinstall it!

Sorry I didn't get pics of how I pushed it in, I was pressed for time.


12. While reinstalling grab your new subframe bushings and inner sleeve. Go ahead and install these. put the top bushings in first, then stick the metal sleeves into then. Now place the bottom bushings on, and apply pressure to tighten them up. Bolt up your subframe with the 17mm bolts, nice and tight and they should compress slightly and everything should fit perfectly.


13. Bolt everything back together, lower the car, and take her for a spin!! I haven't done the rear mount yet (ran out of time) but I will say that even with just the front mount and subframe bushings I have noticed a huge improvement.

I suggest this $60 mod to everyone. Very much worth the money!

If you have any questions give me a shout!!

(Stay tuned, will have rear mount install added to this before long. )

I also want to give a shout out to snakeeyes, for letting me text him with some questions during install!! He's a great dude.
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Old June 2nd, 2012, 10:48 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Old June 2nd, 2012, 11:55 AM   #4 (permalink)
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wow i just realized that i didnt take that metal ring out lol thats probably why they were a PITA for me to get in lol
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Old June 2nd, 2012, 11:58 AM   #5 (permalink)
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good man! you should add a link to Pops' thread, though. His isn't a complete 'how-to' like this one, but it has a bunch of excellent approaches and hints. Here let me find it...

https://club4g.org/board/part-reviews...or-mounts.html
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Old June 2nd, 2012, 11:58 AM   #6 (permalink)
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yeah man that ring has to go. lmfao I don't even know how the hell you got them in with it in there. They barely fit as it. Props to you good sir.
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Old June 2nd, 2012, 11:58 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Might say something to the effect of "this is for the GS, but most steps should apply to the GT as well."
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Old June 2nd, 2012, 11:58 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joeyb View Post
good man! you should add a link to Pops' thread, though. His isn't a complete 'how-to' like this one, but it has a bunch of excellent approaches and hints. Here let me find it...

https://club4g.org/board/part-reviews...or-mounts.html
I will!! I actually used his for a lot of my install haha thanks joey.
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Old June 2nd, 2012, 12:19 PM   #9 (permalink)
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To make it easier to remove and install the front mount, you can remove that entire subframe piece that the mount bolts to.
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Old June 2nd, 2012, 12:20 PM   #10 (permalink)
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It was only 2 or 3 more bolts
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Old June 2nd, 2012, 12:30 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Nice write up!
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Old June 2nd, 2012, 01:03 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crazymedic View Post
To make it easier to remove and install the front mount, you can remove that entire subframe piece that the mount bolts to.
yes this is the approach I took when I did mine.
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Old June 2nd, 2012, 02:32 PM   #13 (permalink)
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nice write up homie .thanks for teh kind words btw
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Old June 3rd, 2012, 03:38 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhun35 View Post
yeah man that ring has to go. lmfao I don't even know how the hell you got them in with it in there. They barely fit as it. Props to you good sir.
the hydraulic press could have something to do with it lol even though it was still a HUGE hassle...definitely paid off though...the mounts and MR coilovers cut over a tenth off my 1/4 mile
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Old June 3rd, 2012, 10:41 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Just picked up a new set with metal inserts already pressed in for 44$ Thanks for the write up, 1 of hundreds in my bookmark for my fat little car.
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Old June 4th, 2012, 10:44 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snakeeyes View Post
nice write up homie .thanks for teh kind words btw
anytime brotato!

Quote:
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Just picked up a new set with metal inserts already pressed in for 44$ Thanks for the write up, 1 of hundreds in my bookmark for my fat little car.
Dude you should jump on those mounts now!! I love mine
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Old June 4th, 2012, 10:45 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crazymedic View Post
To make it easier to remove and install the front mount, you can remove that entire subframe piece that the mount bolts to.
That is pretty smooth man. I probably would've done that if I had thought of it. Either way though. Getting the mount off with the subrame attached wasn't hard at all. Hardest part was knocking out those metal sleeves!
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Old June 4th, 2012, 10:47 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Yea it was rough, nothin a dremel couldn't handle
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Old June 14th, 2012, 06:57 AM   #19 (permalink)
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mine came in black - I like that b/c it's more stealthy and goes w/ the kali-black finish:
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Old June 14th, 2012, 07:00 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Are these new? Did you order new ones?

Joey would you move this to the how to section?
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Old June 14th, 2012, 07:52 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Nah they aren't new - I mean, they were in when I took the picture. Just thought I'd throw it in here.
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Old August 13th, 2012, 09:52 AM   #22 (permalink)
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OMG I HAVE 3 DAYS OFF!!! I GET TO DO THIS AFTER LIKE 3 MONTHS! WOOT WOOT!! xD
Btw, have you done the rear? I might as well do that too!
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Old August 13th, 2012, 11:00 AM   #23 (permalink)
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On a GT, I found droping the subframe easier.

Some things to do and remember.
1. When you park the car make sure the wheels are straight and the stearing wheel centered. If you lower the subframe too far the stearing linkage to the stearing wheel will seperate. No big deal if you planned ahead. Just center the wheel and as a friend sowly raises the frame, you guide the shaft under the dash back into its mount. I used plyers to release pressure on clamp as I guided it in.

2. Have a heavy duty impact wrench. Some of the subframe bolts may be tight. a breaker bar might work, but I broke a socket using one.

Grease the mounts and they pull in easy. A large C clamp would work.

Average mechanical knowledge and it is an easy, just time consuming job.

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Old January 13th, 2013, 04:53 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Hey guys if you haven't installed the pro thane mounts the best way to get it in is I got some dish soap tubed it on the inner of the mount then I put it on the ground then put the bushing on top then just stomped on it it went rite in...no need for a press
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Old April 30th, 2015, 03:36 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Just to add some additional tips not noted in this thread:

It is safe to grease the poly bushings before installation. This will make installing the bushings into the mount housings *much* easier and they won't pop out.

You should use a clamp or press to install the bushings into the mount, not your hands; use wooden blocks to evenly distribute the pressure.

When removing the metal ring, you should cut through the entire ring, and stop when you begin to score the mount itself. I've seen this done effectively with a jigsaw or a good dremel with a metal-cutting bit. If done this way, it eliminates the need for an air hammer. The ring's strength collapses when you cut through it making it short work for a mallet and chisel. It's held in with friction, so cutting through it completely before hammering it takes away that property.
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Old August 15th, 2015, 06:22 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Motor mount thru bolts

Hey guys, i don't feel like anyone has mentioned this other than for the front mount. But i noticed during install of the front mount that the thru bolt, was way smaller than sleeve it runs through. I know people had mentioned a new bolt was required for the new sleeve with the new mounts. I'm not sure if someone else working on my car put in a way smaller bolt, but there was hella play!.For the front mount i ended up going with a 9/16" thru bolt which fit perfect like so perfect i had to kinda mallet it all the way through, but its snug not to big and absolutely NO play. During the install of the rear mount I noticed the same thing, just not quite as much play between the thru bolt and the sleeve. My question is Should there be a lil play? or should the thru bolts be really a snug fit in the sleeve. Thanks guys!
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Old August 15th, 2015, 10:59 PM   #27 (permalink)
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This must be a problem with the kit, the bolt and spacer should have zero play. If there is any play you will damage the bolt and mount. From what I remember when I installed my mounts, there was an extra sleeve for the front mount so our bolt would fit snug. The rear mount fit was good with stock bolt.
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Old August 16th, 2015, 01:20 AM   #28 (permalink)
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I went with the really snug fitting bolts, but what seemed wierd to me was there WAS play in the stock mounts from the bolt and the sleeves...not so much in the rear mount, but there was quite of bit of room in the front mount, at least on my car. I was just wondering if anyone else noticed this on their stock mounts. Also the KIT i got from RRE didn't have any bolts with any of the energy suspension mounts just rubbers and sleeves. 9/16" bolt for the front (and i had to drill out the mounting bracket holes) and 7/16" bolt for the rear sleeve, i didn't have to drill out the mounting holes for the rear bracket. I just wanna say i also did this all with both headers on and intake on also w/o removing the battery! Or dropping the subframe crossmember like other members have mentioned. Feeling pretty good right now! I do have RRE headers and I did have to take off the Y pipe.
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