No crank after shutting it off at gas station, then after hours, it started up? - Club4G Forum : Mitsubishi Eclipse 4G Forums - 2006-2012 Eclipse Authority
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Old February 9th, 2018, 08:27 AM   #1 (permalink)
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No crank after shutting it off at gas station, then after hours, it started up?

Hey guys looking for some help here, I start my car up just fine and drive it to the gas station, put some gas in, then get back in and guess what, it won't even crank. Had two cars try to jump start it then a jump box, toe truck was about to load it up but then we tried one more time and it started right up, what could this be? Thanks guys

The symptoms of it not cranking would be I would put my key in and everything would look fine, no electric weirdness no flashing lights on dash at all, I go to the crank on the key and all the electronics shut off like normal to start the engine, but the starter doesn't go at all, I hear this one click from inside the car I believe but I think it's just the dash turning off to start the car.

Thinking starter, battery, alternator? or maybe an ignition relay or some fuse, any insight?
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Old February 11th, 2018, 11:08 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Bump any help guys? I put a new battery in and that didnít fix it, Iím waiting on pep boys to get me a starter relay so Iíll try that and see if it works
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Old February 12th, 2018, 04:52 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Could be the car anti theft system doesnít recognize the key. It happens sometimes with old keys or when the battery on the fob is almost dead.


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Old February 12th, 2018, 08:08 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Could be the car anti theft system doesn’t recognize the key. It happens sometimes with old keys or when the battery on the fob is almost dead.


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The immobilizer chip in the key isn't powered by the battery, the battery is for the fob functions as far as I know. I can use Hackish's tune to disable the immobilizer if this is the case though.
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Old February 13th, 2018, 04:57 AM   #5 (permalink)
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The battery in the key does need to be good for the car to start. If it started after it sat i doubt its that though. Have you driven the car since? Any codes? I am guessing a hot soak issue or a evap system problem but its only a guess with one no start. It could be a lot of things. I would scan for codes first.
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Old February 14th, 2018, 11:55 AM   #6 (permalink)
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The battery in the key does need to be good for the car to start. If it started after it sat i doubt its that though. Have you driven the car since? Any codes? I am guessing a hot soak issue or a evap system problem but its only a guess with one no start. It could be a lot of things. I would scan for codes first.
Threw a new battery in and it was still doing it, got a starter relay that goes in the small engine bay fuse block and that fixed my problem, gotta reset codes and see whatís up now
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Old February 15th, 2018, 06:48 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Glad you fixed it. I re-read your question . Somehow i missed the part where you said the starter doesnt go at all.
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Old February 15th, 2018, 07:06 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Glad you fixed it. I re-read your question . Somehow i missed the part where you said the starter doesnt go at all.
Hmm still seems intermittent last night but then today it worked fine again took it to my mechanic and they canít get it to do it now lol so weird
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Old February 16th, 2018, 05:08 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Hmm still seems intermittent last night but then today it worked fine again took it to my mechanic and they canít get it to do it now lol so weird


Intermittent issues are the hardest to get diagnosed, especially electrical.

You said you replaced the car battery or the key fob battery? Does your mechanic have a basic scan tool or one that can see more in-depth codes?
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Old February 19th, 2018, 05:06 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Intermittent issues are the hardest to get diagnosed, especially electrical.

You said you replaced the car battery or the key fob battery? Does your mechanic have a basic scan tool or one that can see more in-depth codes?
I agree with this. Pull any current and stored codes also, A good scanner can help diagnois this with live and freeze frame data. I am starting to lean at corroded and/or lose wiring between the battery and starter.
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Old February 19th, 2018, 07:06 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by ForeverRed View Post
Intermittent issues are the hardest to get diagnosed, especially electrical.

You said you replaced the car battery or the key fob battery? Does your mechanic have a basic scan tool or one that can see more in-depth codes?
I agree with this. Pull any current and stored codes also, A good scanner can help diagnois this with live and freeze frame data. I am starting to lean at corroded and/or lose wiring between the battery and starter.
It was throwing P0335 for the crankshaft position sensor but my mechanic said thatís unlikely as it throws that just because itís not starting when really the starter doesnít even turn first and if itís that then itíll never start when it eventually did
And now itís not having problems at all again
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Old June 5th, 2018, 12:41 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Looks like this is a little old and I'm having a similar issue now. Had a friend come help boost me and they swapped the booster cables on their end by accident and let's just say by positive battery peg welded a little. was able to force fit the terminal around the peg and now it will start but dies quickly and everything slowly shuts down. first no radio, then power to the power windows, then ABS and Airbag lights come on, etc... We think it might be that fuse attached to the positive terminal. Is that an alternator fuse? Just weird cause I just installed new fog lights then detailed my car and everything was working just fine. not sure why it died in the first place.
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Old June 5th, 2018, 03:10 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I had a similar issue. It got so bad that it wouldn't do anything with the key in. Turns out it was a bad alternator. The diodes(?) had failed apparently. Replaced the alternator and it's running great. I also had an O2 heater short, which may have caused the bad alternator or vice versa. Haven't replaced the O2 sensor yet, but I did unplug it.
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Old June 5th, 2018, 05:42 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Looks like this is a little old and I'm having a similar issue now. Had a friend come help boost me and they swapped the booster cables on their end by accident and let's just say by positive battery peg welded a little. was able to force fit the terminal around the peg and now it will start but dies quickly and everything slowly shuts down. first no radio, then power to the power windows, then ABS and Airbag lights come on, etc... We think it might be that fuse attached to the positive terminal. Is that an alternator fuse? Just weird cause I just installed new fog lights then detailed my car and everything was working just fine. not sure why it died in the first place.
Symptoms describe something wrong in the alternator circuit. You can start but it'll immediately start draining the battery. First, check the fuse on the positive (red) battery terminal. It should be covered by the red plastic. If thats fine, check the fuse in the engine bay fusebox. Worst case scenario, you fried your alternator.
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Old June 11th, 2018, 12:22 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Symptoms describe something wrong in the alternator circuit. You can start but it'll immediately start draining the battery. First, check the fuse on the positive (red) battery terminal. It should be covered by the red plastic. If thats fine, check the fuse in the engine bay fusebox. Worst case scenario, you fried your alternator.
Turns out it was the fuse on the positive terminal. replaced that and a few other fuses. back up and running now!
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Old June 11th, 2018, 06:13 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Turns out it was the fuse on the positive terminal. replaced that and a few other fuses. back up and running now!
Great to hear! The one time it happened to me it took forever for me to track it down because I never worked on a car that had the fuse right on the terminal. Had me stressing out about dropping money on an alternator that might not even be problematic. Happened when I arced my tools when working on the alternator without unplugging. Cheap easy fix and a good lesson for playing it safe and disconnecting the battery.
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Old July 19th, 2020, 02:24 PM   #17 (permalink)
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This ended up being a failed starter
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Old July 21st, 2020, 03:08 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Mine still does something like this , when I put the key in if I try to start it right away it makes one click and zero power won't even try to crank . If I let the double din screen load up and wait 10 seconds for the dash lights to go away it fires up everytime no issue at all ! Has a brand new battery and terminals/wires .
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Old July 21st, 2020, 08:40 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Mine still does something like this , when I put the key in if I try to start it right away it makes one click and zero power won't even try to crank . If I let the double din screen load up and wait 10 seconds for the dash lights to go away it fires up everytime no issue at all ! Has a brand new battery and terminals/wires .
That’s weird

Mine would just click and not start no matter if I turned the key right away, or waited; and it was intermittent of not starting and starting

I already had a new battery in it so I replaced the starter and started relay and that fixed it; the aftermarket starter I got sounds much better too
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Old July 29th, 2020, 09:21 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Starter. At least for me. It just clicks.
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