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Old September 5th, 2020, 11:03 AM   #1 (permalink)
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A/C Flashing Green on the button..

Can anyone help me with this? Not sure what to do next but I think my replacement compressor is unworking in my 09GT

- Had the original compressor in and I believe I messed it up (last year) because I took an old can of refrigerant and used that to top up and then shortly thereafter the compressor would make a TON of noise, but it still blew cold, and it never flashed my A/C light.

- Purchased a used compressor in July (and had someone else install it) and it seemed like it was working, but then a couple of days later the A/C green light started flashing and I had never seen this before..

- When I brought it back to the guys they deduced that it was low on refrigerant as a result of the service port schrader (valve bubbling with soapy water) -- so, we replaced that and it fixed the service port leak and we put the refrigerant on it again and seemed ok... for a minute..

- Now this is where I'm not sure.. So, when it goes for a minute, it goes for EXACTLY a minute... When I say "goes for a minute", this is my timing chart:
0:00 No A/C button pressed, gauge hooked up, shows about 50-55 so 'full'
0:00 Press A/C button, gauge goes to 0
0:20 gauge comes back up to 50 so I figure this is when the compressor comes on, but I don't hear a CLICK.
1:20 CLICK. and gauge goes to 0
1:40 gauge goes to 55 and A/C starts flashing
3:00 no change....

So, until I manually turn on and off my A/C I think that something like a 'safety trip' is occurring because it's happening at such perfect timed intervals...

I have also purchased a trigger A/C refiller for troubleshooting this (instead of the usual valve/hose on a can), and when it goes to 0 I give it a couple of squirts (per other posts here) but doesn't seem to do anything -- but after the 20 seconds is up it kicks back up.. and then the pressure is slightly higher... so, no more squirting till I ask you guys..


p.s. I tried to make this as detailed as possible, including the troubleshooting and background to avoid the "you know you could've found your answer already" -- that seems to be the common retort when someone asks this so..... yeah it's not low on refrigerant.
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Old September 5th, 2020, 11:07 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Can u do a scan for codes in the A/C head module? Maybe a pressure switch is prohibiting the system from running

U sure there’s no leaks?

It’s also not unheard of to get a new dead on arrival AC compressor
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Old September 5th, 2020, 11:12 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pcfreak4 View Post
Can u do a scan for codes in the A/C head module? Maybe a pressure switch is prohibiting the system from running
Like with a normal scan tool? Wouldn't CEL be on if there were codes? I'll check though.

Quote:
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U sure thereís no leaks?
pretty sure.. I don't see anything wet, and the pressure stays up now since the schrader valve core fix.

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Originally Posted by pcfreak4 View Post
Itís also not unheard of to get a new dead on arrival AC compressor
Wasn't new, it was from a wrecker..
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Old September 5th, 2020, 11:27 AM   #4 (permalink)
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any of these what you're talking about? no codes. I have pages of misc. readings, although which seem interesting, are not the topic atm.. I'll ask about those all later..
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Old September 5th, 2020, 03:44 PM   #5 (permalink)
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No an AL419 can't do A/C module codes, and no dummy light will be on the dash cluster for any A/C problem

You need a different scan tool to get A/C module codes, the Autel DiagLink or MD802 or MD808 all module scanners can do it, it's how I found out I had an open circuit for my A/C system's ambient temp sensor

You got a used A/C compressor? Seriously? You need to get a new one
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Old September 5th, 2020, 04:01 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Yeah FSM has a pic of a computer reading some A/C status things..
I bought a cable to use with some software for my buddy's VW but we never used it.. and was going to try it on my Subaru, but maybe there's some similar software for Mitsubishi..
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Old September 5th, 2020, 07:00 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PiPPi View Post
Yeah FSM has a pic of a computer reading some A/C status things..
I bought a cable to use with some software for my buddy's VW but we never used it.. and was going to try it on my Subaru, but maybe there's some similar software for Mitsubishi..
Only software for PC that will do A/C codes is the official MUT III dealer software, that you’ll need a login to Mitsubishi tech info on a time limit and all that, totally overkill when you can use a reverse engineered Autel that can do it over and over forever

Any PC software, even if you tried to use the official MUT III software would require a J2534 adapter anyway like the Tactrix OpenPort 2.0 we use for reflashing the PCM/ECU, not any old VAG COM cable and especially not one of those ELM237 things

https://www.amazon.com/Autel-Diaglin.../dp/B01N0QQZY7

This does all modules code reading, code erasing, and live data for our car

Last edited by pcfreak4; September 5th, 2020 at 07:03 PM.
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Old September 5th, 2020, 07:07 PM   #8 (permalink)
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My AC is solid green but blows scalding hot air . I tried one of those refill kits too and it shows 0 pressure then goes up to the correct level then makes a loud noise and it sounds like the compressor stops , loses pressure then fills up again correct and makes the same bang and drops . Does this over and over in a time cycle like you described . I can hear a leak/hissing in mine and see vapor in the atmosphere . A shop pulled multiple codes but didn't tell me what they were and my obd just says incomplete when it scans the AC . I don't think very many people on the forum actually have working AC lol . Seems like a junk system from the factory for sure , read one guy had to completely gut the entire thing to stop the problems
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Old September 5th, 2020, 08:18 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jayannon View Post
My AC is solid green but blows scalding hot air . I tried one of those refill kits too and it shows 0 pressure then goes up to the correct level then makes a loud noise and it sounds like the compressor stops , loses pressure then fills up again correct and makes the same bang and drops . Does this over and over in a time cycle like you described . I can hear a leak/hissing in mine and see vapor in the atmosphere . A shop pulled multiple codes but didn't tell me what they were and my obd just says incomplete when it scans the AC . I don't think very many people on the forum actually have working AC lol . Seems like a junk system from the factory for sure , read one guy had to completely gut the entire thing to stop the problems
Yeah my A/C doesn't work because it always leaks, I pay to have all the leaks and seals replaced, and then inevitably a new leak always appears soon after. I gave up on it, A/C not working from never ending leaks and an evap leak P0455 are problems I'm just leaving my car with at this point lol
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Old September 6th, 2020, 04:53 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Autel DiagLink or MD802 or MD808 all module scanners can do it
I don't see the diference between this one
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01N0QQZY7?...rticalsco03-20
and this one
https://www.amazon.ca/Autel-Scanner-.../dp/B06XXBG8ZG
besides price and shipping speed..

and what is the all systems vs. 4 systems? The All systems I thought meant you already had them all loaded instead of having to order at $10ea - but I think that "systems" is referring to the modules that can be scanned like ABS, etc. not the "all specific vehicles' systems" -- but is that what the MD808 is? Or do ALL Autel scanners need a vehicle-specific download?

I was also looking at something like this
https://www.princessauto.com/en/deta...er/A-p8863276e
which "supports all 10 test modes" -- I think that means that it can prolly do the reading of codes for my purposes, but it's an 'AL' model so maybe not.. Do I need the vehicle-specific diagnostics to get at these A/C details or are they included in the "10 test modes" which includes the ABS and other things?

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Old September 6th, 2020, 06:59 AM   #11 (permalink)
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All systems means all modules not all car manufactures

The DiagLink lets you pick 1 manufacturer for free, and extras are $10

10 modes on that one just mean the 10 generic OBD2 modes, worthless for what we want
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Old September 6th, 2020, 05:12 PM   #12 (permalink)
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the 2nd Amazon link product should arrive tmr
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Old September 6th, 2020, 05:56 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
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the 2nd Amazon link product should arrive tmr
Cool, make an Autel account and download the software, you’ll register the serial number of your device on your account, then take the SD card out and put it in your computer and select Mitsubishi to claim your 1 free manufacturer, then download the Mitsubishi software and any updates with the software, safely eject SD card and you’re ready to go
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Old September 6th, 2020, 08:11 PM   #14 (permalink)
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does anyone safely eject SDs?
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Old September 7th, 2020, 07:38 PM   #15 (permalink)
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k, got it, registered online before I started the software, and then when I started the software and it brought me to the registration, I was already registered AND it gave me a "failure to connect to server, please check the network and try again!"

EDIT: may have DLed the wrong software.. please hold...

EDIT2: man, this (correct) software is awesome.

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Old September 7th, 2020, 08:39 PM   #16 (permalink)
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does the car need to be on? it's faulting its ass off.
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Old September 7th, 2020, 08:48 PM   #17 (permalink)
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lol I'm so giddy about this new toy.. I found a spot where I could push the A/C button and have it show on the device...
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Old September 7th, 2020, 09:19 PM   #18 (permalink)
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lol I'm so giddy about this new toy.. I found a spot where I could push the A/C button and have it show on the device...
I know it’s awesome isn’t it lol
Yeah live data?

No the engine should not be running, just key on in second position with engine not running, but for certain live data it should be running, but for reading and clearing codes the engine shouldn’t be running

Also about all those fault codes, that’s very common for an old used car like ours where many software glitches or broken parts happened at one time and were probably fixed or the glitch condition was temporary, so, I’d recommend actually going through every single module manually and erasing ALL of the codes, then just see what comes back after driving the car around

https://tearstone.com/eclipsefsm/200...54B.pdf#page29

Btw a U1111 (center display module missing) and I believe U1703 (sunroof module missing) codes for lost communication with certain (nonexistent) modules on some of the modules are actually normal and not a real fault according to the FSM that I linked above

Also possibly TPMS module missing codes on some cars, I don’t have TPMS at all on mine

Last edited by pcfreak4; September 7th, 2020 at 09:30 PM.
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Old September 7th, 2020, 09:56 PM   #19 (permalink)
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I tried clearing these codes that come up with the AC but every time get this
20200907_232446_1599535533570.jpg
and it's u1111 and I am 'equipped' with A/C

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Old September 7th, 2020, 10:30 PM   #20 (permalink)
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That’s totally normal that’s exactly what mine does

AC module always throwing U1111 because the AC module can’t communicate with the “center display module”

The center display module does not actually exist, my guess is that the radio screen/clock was originally supposed to be apart of the CAN BUS system as its own module but it actually wasn’t for the production cars

Other modules throw this code I think ETACS and maybe Immobilizer too

So it’s really tedious and takes a while but go through the entire list of modules manually and do a read and erase of all codes from every single module

That’ll really help u get rid of old junk and then take your car for some good drive cycles and check up on all of your modules and see what codes came back (other than u1111 and u1703)

If your AC module is only throwing U1111 then it has no code faults, then again the code faults for the AC don’t cover everything, it’s just a good place to start to make sure your system is being inhibited by a bad pressure switch or temperature sensor or something, mine has no codes except U1111 and it throws no code about my AC system having a leak and no pressure in it at all

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Old September 7th, 2020, 11:12 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pcfreak4 View Post
That’s totally normal that’s exactly what mine does
.. and your A/C doesn't work either 😉

one thing I thought was weird was that the A/C switch seemed to turn 'off' according to the scanner, before the actual a/c button would flash (you know, after the minute).. this was after a little bit but not a minute.. and every time it went 'off' I pressed and unpressed the AC button and it came 'on' again..

This will be my next question: What kind of potential screw ups could my mechanic guys have mistakenly done? Like is there a wiring harness that isn't fully connected? I don't see any visible leaks but could they have not tightened something up enough?
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Old September 8th, 2020, 06:33 AM   #22 (permalink)
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I’d check the compressor
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Old September 8th, 2020, 12:05 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by pcfreak4 View Post
I’d check the compressor
Yeah I'll remove the bottom cover and dig in later to check further thx
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Old September 24th, 2020, 09:02 AM   #24 (permalink)
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when I was using the scanner it kept on throwing U1111 and doesn't detect my A/C button being pressed at all..

A/C button doesn't FLASH anymore but it also is solely just a pretty green light at this moment.. Compressor doesn't even go on AT ALL now..

And I checked if it's getting power to the compressor and it's not.. So I started tracing the purple wire out and it goes into some other things. So before I rip apart these nicely-gathered and taped-up wires does it go to the relay in the underhood fuse box? I feel like I should check that next.
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Old September 24th, 2020, 11:14 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PiPPi View Post
when I was using the scanner it kept on throwing U1111 and doesn't detect my A/C button being pressed at all..

A/C button doesn't FLASH anymore but it also is solely just a pretty green light at this moment.. Compressor doesn't even go on AT ALL now..

And I checked if it's getting power to the compressor and it's not.. So I started tracing the purple wire out and it goes into some other things. So before I rip apart these nicely-gathered and taped-up wires does it go to the relay in the underhood fuse box? I feel like I should check that next.
Have you checked the A/C system charge?

I believe the U1111 is a always existing non problem code, I'd have to double check

https://tearstone.com/eclipsefsm/200...-55B.pdf#page9

It is normal, see the asterisk

A few other modules throw a U1111 at all times and a U code for missing sunroof model if you have no sunroof and it’s no actual issue, just ignore as FSM says to do

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Old September 28th, 2020, 04:27 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Thanks for the link..
I also HAD checked the charge but when it went down I didn't think to give it more.. Then I realized that although I filled the low side, I never checked the high side.. I was afraid to add more when the needle dropped because it would go into red when it came back up.. but, it didn't.. I gave it some more, after it was already good-looking on the meter but had dropped to zero, and a few times of that got it cold.. yesterday.. I presume it's still cold today but I haven't gone out in it..
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Old September 28th, 2020, 04:31 PM   #27 (permalink)
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and that scanner you guys convinced me to buy was great troubleshooting with..
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Old September 28th, 2020, 04:49 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Is that sarcasm or sincere lol?
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Old September 28th, 2020, 04:57 PM   #29 (permalink)
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srs.
the temperature measure, the button on/off thing, plus the "this tire is setting off your abs light" feature is great too.
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Old September 28th, 2020, 07:53 PM   #30 (permalink)
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srs.
the temperature measure, the button on/off thing, plus the "this tire is setting off your abs light" feature is great too.
Yeah it is pretty great for the $, pulls the data like the dealer laptop/MUTIII does; there's few things the dealer tool can do that this one can't, immobilizer/key registration, passenger seat weight sensor calibration, VIN programming, ABS bleeding, all PCM keep alive memory/learned data reset are the ones that come to mind

Fastworks has the PCM reset/keep alive memory/learned data reset though, or pulling the battery usually takes care of that anyway

I'm looking for a good scanner to take care of our ABS bleeding though, it works on the DiagLink for my 2002 Subaru WRX and GM and Fords but no option for my Eclipse
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