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Old July 15th, 2010, 06:14 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Flashing AC light

i read that the flashing ac light means the ac coolant/ freon ( what ever it is ) is low but i got oily liquid on the inside of the engine bay on the passenger side question is is it flammable cause the dealer ship is like 50 miles away and i'm at 84K miles is it still under warranty or can some one point me in the right direction thanks in advance
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Old July 15th, 2010, 07:05 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Your leaking AC Freon, happening to me, it started at 35-40k miles. This is a crappy subject because on one hand if the problem happened on its own, warrenty will most likley cover it, but if you have rocks or something hit your AC hoses/pipes your paying a pretty penny to fix it. I'd say look for oily spots on your AC hoses, if so its leaking there. AC freon isnt flammable just dangerous to touch with your hands, so they say.
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Old July 15th, 2010, 07:07 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Oh and 60k is the cut off for AC, thats what the warrenty lady told me. AC hoses are 120+ each, plus you have to vacuum and recharge your system, so taking it to a machanic with buying your parts, your looking at 400-500.
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Old July 15th, 2010, 07:15 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Your leaking AC Freon, happening to me, it started at 35-40k miles. This is a crappy subject because on one hand if the problem happened on its own, warrenty will most likley cover it, but if you have rocks or something hit your AC hoses/pipes your paying a pretty penny to fix it. I'd say look for oily spots on your AC hoses, if so its leaking there. AC freon isnt flammable just dangerous to touch with your hands, so they say.
ok thanks damn and i was touching it and sniffing to see what the oily stuff was lol. I guess i 'll ask the dealership how much then prob fix it myself if it is to much. damn the day before i i'm to order my rre headers
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Old July 15th, 2010, 07:22 PM   #5 (permalink)
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ya if u find where the oil is comming from u will find the leak and if u have oil coming out its not a small leak.... i work on air conditioning so wipe all the oil up and drive it and see what fitting the oil is coming from most likely its going too be close too the compressor.... also if u still have pressure in the system and u want too go all out put soap bubbles on every joint/connection and if u see bubbles u have a leak
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Old July 18th, 2010, 10:45 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Yeah blinky ac light means it's under 10psi. My condenser and suction line went down 460 for the pair. Easy to install if ur patient.. First thing it was was the suction line. Installed and found a leak on the one weld on the condenser. Charge was 130 at an independent shop. My dealer won't do any warranty work unless u can prove it's their fault. Get a leak test takes cpl hrs and such and look for the green uv crap with a uv light. Replace then go elsewhere to get ur shot evacuated and recharged with oil.
If u wanna tackle this labor lemme know via pm or whatever I can guide u through it.
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Old July 18th, 2010, 11:07 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Yeah blinky ac light means it's under 10psi. My condenser and suction line went down 460 for the pair. Easy to install if ur patient.. First thing it was was the suction line. Installed and found a leak on the one weld on the condenser. Charge was 130 at an independent shop. My dealer won't do any warranty work unless u can prove it's their fault. Get a leak test takes cpl hrs and such and look for the green uv crap with a uv light. Replace then go elsewhere to get ur shot evacuated and recharged with oil.
If u wanna tackle this labor lemme know via pm or whatever I can guide u through it.
Where did you buy your parts? Dealer or some pick a part place? My Discharge and suction hoses are messed up and need them replaced, but I dont have the money to repair them so I have been using Synthetic Freon with advanced stop leak(they say it wont harm your car) and the Freon stays in there for about a month before needing another can, I also use compressor oil every month to make sure it doesnt crap out on me.
What are your thoughts?
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Old July 19th, 2010, 01:14 AM   #8 (permalink)
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well i bought a can of the r134a to put in so i can find the leak turns out the stuff i got also had that stop leak componet so now it works great but can't find which hose it is and the dealer ship was going to charge $550 before parts and tax the two hoses are $250 out the door 120 and 130 so now i'm waiting then whenit leaks againg i can fix it but i gues i'll order my headers for now
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Old July 19th, 2010, 07:16 PM   #9 (permalink)
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well i bought a can of the r134a to put in so i can find the leak turns out the stuff i got also had that stop leak componet so now it works great but can't find which hose it is and the dealer ship was going to charge $550 before parts and tax the two hoses are $250 out the door 120 and 130 so now i'm waiting then whenit leaks againg i can fix it but i gues i'll order my headers for now
check on the weld points on the condenser where they are bolted down thats where most of the reported leaks were from there wasnt a recall that im aware of because there wasnt enough problems reported according to mitsu at least thats what went down with mine right @ 45000 miles
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Old July 22nd, 2010, 10:01 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Same thing with me. Exactly. Then I looked on front of condenser and boom. All my parts from dealer. Worked well. Until another 45k..
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Old July 23rd, 2010, 10:53 AM   #11 (permalink)
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wtf is with everyone's AC busting all of a sudden? I understand it's summer and everyone is using them, but this doesn't happen every year.
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Old July 23rd, 2010, 11:57 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Every time my AC started to blink when I had my 4G, it was always the condenser. MY condenser got replaced 3 times, in the 3 years I owned the car, deffinetivelty everything under warranty. Until the 4th time, where the technician got tired of looking for the problem and he replaced, Condenser, Hoses, Clutch, and everything he couldnt think off.

He also mentioned to me that the AC clutch on the 4G is very week.

So to summarize, if you have problems with the AC blinking ,check condenser or AC clutch.

Good Luck!
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Old April 8th, 2013, 03:25 PM   #13 (permalink)
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my ac light is just blinking green and i read in another part of the forum that a blue and green blinking ac light means that the condenser has gone bad. What does it mean if its just blinking green??
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Old April 8th, 2013, 05:09 PM   #14 (permalink)
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No refrigerant.
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Old April 8th, 2013, 06:03 PM   #15 (permalink)
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so what do i do from here??
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Old April 8th, 2013, 06:21 PM   #16 (permalink)
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It's probably from a punctured line. Mine was from a busted condenser and to busted lines. Need to get a dye test.
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Old April 8th, 2013, 08:18 PM   #17 (permalink)
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if you need it drawn down and totally recharged give me a hollar, I'm set up for it and not that far away.
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Old April 10th, 2013, 11:55 AM   #18 (permalink)
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where you at
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Old July 13th, 2013, 03:13 PM   #19 (permalink)
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I am having the same issue. The air started fluctuating with hot and cold air. The pressure was low so put sealant and freon. Couple weeks later its starting to go out again. This time I noticed the green blinking light. I pushed it and it stopped. Help!
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Old June 10th, 2014, 09:44 AM   #20 (permalink)
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I know this is an older thread, but hopefully someone will still be here to help. I have a 2008 Mitsu Eclipse GS and my AC blows cool but not cold. More like room temperature. The A/C light flashes green. Can't afford to take it to a mechanic to have it fixed. Could it just be that it needs charged with freon? How do I know? Can someone walk me through it? TIA
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Old June 29th, 2014, 06:57 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Similar problem here. AC light is blinking Green. On Driver side I still get cold air but on passenger side it is blowing hot. Can some expert member post step by step troubleshooting/fixing instructions.

Thanks
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Old July 25th, 2014, 07:29 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Hey guys Im not a expert by no means but the green blinking light means the freon/ refrigerant is low and it needs to be recharged.... theres a reason that it is low tho, most likely because of a leak. Mine has leaked going on the third time now, this time it is the worst because from what I can tell I made a bigger leak from recharging it with freon. so be careful when recharging your ac. And make sure that the freon/ refrigerant that you buy has sealant in it to seal up the leak.
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Old May 30th, 2019, 07:26 AM   #23 (permalink)
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Sorry to necro an old ass thread, but I'm having the same issue. I had the blower motor resistor issue for a few years and just said f*ck it to fixing it, but finally found a thread on this site and fixed it myself. Now that my blower is working, I find that my AC has stopped working (blinking green light). I could hear the compressor turn on before I replaced the blower motor resistor.

Bought a can of sealant/refrigerant, but the compressor isn't kicking on any more. Even if I try to load some refrigerant into the lines to see if the compressor is just not turning on because the pressure is too low, it sounds like nothing is going in. The PSI gauge on the can I use goes to zero when I pull the trigger, and when I release it, it goes into the over pressure category (which I guess it should since the compressor isn't engaging).

Any ideas? How long should it take to empty a can of refrigerant into the lines if the lines are completely empty? I really don't want to spend a couple hundred more bucks after just getting my timing belt changed. But I'm also sick of not having AC, haha.
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Old May 30th, 2019, 07:32 AM   #24 (permalink)
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You need a gauge to see if you’re system is full or not, and u need to add refrigerant with the compressor running, it took me two little cans to fill mine from empty
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Old May 30th, 2019, 07:46 AM   #25 (permalink)
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A lot of videos I've watched and things I've read said that if the compressor isn't running, it might just be so low that it won't run to prevent damage, and to try adding some until it comes on. If it doesn't, there's probably another problem.

Thing is, I'm trying to add some to get it to come on, but it doesn't seem like anything is going in. Is there any indication that a can is emptying with the trigger being pulled? I've got a can of A/C Pro r-234a if that matters

I can't post links yet, but if you search for ACP-100V, that's the stuff.

Also, thank you for your reply.

edit: Just got this response from the manufacturers of the AC Pro
Quote:
If the compressor clutch is not engaged with a pressure reading in the red, you may add refrigerant for up to 30 minutes or until the compressor clutch kicks back on. You'll want to pump the refrigerant into the system, squeezing the trigger every 5-10 seconds, never continuously holding the trigger down. Once the compressor clutch kicks back on, you'll be able to properly charge your system from there. If after 30 minutes or half a can the clutch does not engage, at that point it would be more of a mechanical issue.
Does this sound right? Gonna give it a shot, but sitting outside for half an hour pumping the trigger sounds like a pain in the ass.

Last edited by bae of pigs; May 30th, 2019 at 08:18 AM.
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Old May 30th, 2019, 08:23 AM   #26 (permalink)
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A lot of videos I've watched and things I've read said that if the compressor isn't running, it might just be so low that it won't run to prevent damage, and to try adding some until it comes on. If it doesn't, there's probably another problem.

Thing is, I'm trying to add some to get it to come on, but it doesn't seem like anything is going in. Is there any indication that a can is emptying with the trigger being pulled? I've got a can of A/C Pro r-234a if that matters

I can't post links yet, but if you search for ACP-100V, that's the stuff.

Also, thank you for your reply.

edit: Just got this response from the manufacturers of the AC Pro

Does this sound right? Gonna give it a shot, but sitting outside for half an hour pumping the trigger sounds like a pain in the ass.
Start the engine and then turn the vent dial to anything other than defrost, then turn A/C blue/red dial to Max A/C, then turn fan speed to max, 4

Then you hook up the can to the low line by holding the connector back and popping it on, then you follow the instructions on the can, I know for the buttonless ones you just tip the can over for a few seconds a little more than 45 degrees to let it flow, then you tip it back up, and do that until the can feels empty, check it with a gauge to see if you need more

Really though, an A/C shop with a A/C system vacuum, refrigerant recovery device, and proper high and low line gauges should do this for you if you have any more problems you could cause more damage to your system
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Old May 30th, 2019, 09:13 AM   #27 (permalink)
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Welp, gonna just take this to a mechanic. My normal mechanic doesn't do much with AC but referred me to the shop they send all their AC work to. Guess I'm giving them a call. Thanks for all the help.

Edit: turns out the advice i was given by the manufacturer worked and I'm sitting in an ice cold car with working AC for the first time in years!

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Old July 18th, 2020, 04:31 PM   #28 (permalink)
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I’m having this issue... I’ve change compressor, condenser ( well the thing in front of the radiator...) and still flashing even if I refilled it... gauge goes in borderline red, when compressor kicks in, goes in the white... is the pressure supposed to fluctuate that much?
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