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Old May 19th, 2011, 10:07 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Door locks not working properly

So, within the last couple of months my door locks stopped working.

Symptoms:
Key does not work
Electronic lock button in the door doesnt work
-- when either of these actions are taken, it makes a sound, and the locks TRY to click over, they even physically move, but they dont actually lock or unlock.

Troubleshooting completed so far:
Checked the door lock fuse in the engine bay (the 40amp one) and it appears fine.
There is also what appears to be a door lock fuse in the cabin of the car, (#15) and it appears to be fine as well.
Unhooked my aftermarket viper alarm.


The only thing I can think of is that the JDM Black housing LED Taillights I installed a few months ago are causing an issue. Originally the only thing that did not work was my cruise control, and that stopped working pretty much immediately after I installed the taillights, it wasn't until about a month or two later that the door locks stopped working.

I know I should have already put the inline resistor in with my taillights (which I found a tutorial for on here) but I just havent had time recently, and plan on getting that done this coming saturday.

My car is @ 55k miles, it's a 2007 GS, so while it's still under the 5 year mfg warranty, the mileage is over, so it won't be covered for a mfg repair. Even if it was I have a feeling they wouldnt fix it because of the aftermarket lights.

Anywho, does it sound like a problem that might be fixed when i put the resistor inline with my taillights? If not, any ideas on what it could be?

Thanks!~
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Old May 19th, 2011, 02:06 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I'm sure you are aware by now that are car has several ECU's, so when you do any electrical work make sure you disconnect the battery!! This will also reset your ECU's and clear their memory. So hopefully after installing the inline load resistors and reconnecting the battery you should be good to go.
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Old May 22nd, 2011, 09:22 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Thanks, I gather from that thread that I need some 8 ohm 25 watt resistors, I thought I could find some at radio shack, but couldnt. I want to make sure I get the right thing, and google searching it is proving a bit difficult, what do you recommend I look for specifically? Any good websites for those sorts of parts?
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Old May 25th, 2011, 08:35 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Old June 2nd, 2011, 10:28 AM   #5 (permalink)
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I fixed my taillights, and it fixed everything that is traditionally associated with the LED lights such as the warning lights and the cruise control.

Unfortunately it did not fix my issue with the door locks. I did more research and based on problems other people are having, it seems like its either the voltage coming from the ecu is too low, or the motors in the actuators went bad. I took the door panel off and tested the voltage, and it's getting the appropriate voltage, so my next step is to replace the actuators.

I called my local mitsubishi dealer and they have the parts available to order for around $115 per, so about 225 for the pair. I can't seem to find a dealer online that has parts like these for sale, they need to be OEM -- i don't want to put any aftermarket actuators in the doors. Does anyone have any information that can lead me to a good OEM wholesale website, or just a place that I can buy those parts in general, for less than the mfg would sell them to me for?

Thanks.
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Old June 2nd, 2011, 10:44 AM   #6 (permalink)
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nvm, found it through a forum search.
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Old June 2nd, 2011, 12:54 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Have you checked the voltage for the battery inside your key? I could see one door going bad, but both at the same time would mean a single component that is causing both doors not to operate properly.
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Old August 3rd, 2011, 12:23 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Balbanes View Post
So, within the last couple of months my door locks stopped working.

Symptoms:
Key does not work
Electronic lock button in the door doesnt work
-- when either of these actions are taken, it makes a sound, and the locks TRY to click over, they even physically move, but they dont actually lock or unlock.

Troubleshooting completed so far:
Checked the door lock fuse in the engine bay (the 40amp one) and it appears fine.
There is also what appears to be a door lock fuse in the cabin of the car, (#15) and it appears to be fine as well.
Unhooked my aftermarket viper alarm.


The only thing I can think of is that the JDM Black housing LED Taillights I installed a few months ago are causing an issue. Originally the only thing that did not work was my cruise control, and that stopped working pretty much immediately after I installed the taillights, it wasn't until about a month or two later that the door locks stopped working.

I know I should have already put the inline resistor in with my taillights (which I found a tutorial for on here) but I just havent had time recently, and plan on getting that done this coming saturday.

My car is @ 55k miles, it's a 2007 GS, so while it's still under the 5 year mfg warranty, the mileage is over, so it won't be covered for a mfg repair. Even if it was I have a feeling they wouldnt fix it because of the aftermarket lights.

Anywho, does it sound like a problem that might be fixed when i put the resistor inline with my taillights? If not, any ideas on what it could be?

Thanks!~
have you fixed this door lock problem i have same issue?
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Old August 3rd, 2011, 12:39 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I took it to the MFG to have a diagnostic done, I thought the mfg warranty was 5 yr/50k miles, apparently its 60k miles, i was at around 56,000 at the time, they replaced the actuators for me. It's the same thing I was going to do, but they did it under the mfg warranty... so I assume that's the problem you're having. If you're still within the mfg warranty period take it to the dealer, otherwise that's probably what you're going to want to investigate.
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Old August 3rd, 2011, 01:01 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Balbanes View Post
I took it to the MFG to have a diagnostic done, I thought the mfg warranty was 5 yr/50k miles, apparently its 60k miles, i was at around 56,000 at the time, they replaced the actuators for me. It's the same thing I was going to do, but they did it under the mfg warranty... so I assume that's the problem you're having. If you're still within the mfg warranty period take it to the dealer, otherwise that's probably what you're going to want to investigate.
ok ill start on that! im way past 56k im at 130k lol
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Old August 3rd, 2011, 02:59 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Old August 3rd, 2011, 03:03 PM   #12 (permalink)
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My locks dont work until I actually start the car
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Old January 18th, 2012, 09:24 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Old thread, but Joey did you find out for yours what to do? my passenger door lock does the "trying its best" to click over but doesnt go completely. Its wierd, it hasnt worked for 3 months, last week it just started working for 5 days and not it doesnt work again...
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Old October 30th, 2013, 01:05 PM   #14 (permalink)
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What are the fuses for the passenger side door lock? I hear it try to unlock everytime I click unlock on the driver side panel. I can see it giggle slightly when I click lock on the driver side panel as well. Same behavior regardless if the car is running or not.
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Old October 30th, 2013, 01:41 PM   #15 (permalink)
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I had basically same problem caused two times by different things.

First was a weird glitch and resetting the ecu by disconnecting negative battery cable for 30 mins fixed.

Second time was a blown fuse but not the one noted for that. There's a little yellow two fuse container under the hood . I didn't realize that .


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Old October 30th, 2013, 01:43 PM   #16 (permalink)
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What are the fuses for the passenger side door lock? I hear it try to unlock everytime I click unlock on the driver side panel. I can see it giggle slightly when I click lock on the driver side panel as well. Same behavior regardless if the car is running or not.
What you are hearing is it trying to lock the passenger door. If it is already locked it is just bumping the solenoid. Thats ok.

Dude. Stop pulling fuses to fix issues.


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Old October 30th, 2013, 09:31 PM   #17 (permalink)
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What you are hearing is it trying to lock the passenger door. If it is already locked it is just bumping the solenoid. Thats ok.

Dude. Stop pulling fuses to fix issues.


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Well that is completely unhelpful...
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Old October 30th, 2013, 10:16 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Well that is completely unhelpful...
How un helpful. His issue hevti trying to fix is not an isdue. Its normal. Or I can tell him whch fuse an now neither door lock works. Or a simple look in the manual will tell him which fuse.

As to stop pulling fuse comment. He's posted two issues. And rather then fix he is pulling fuses. Our cars are sensitive to voltage changes. Hell LEDs will disable our traction controll.

So usefull. Dam straight it was.

Smart ass!

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Old November 1st, 2013, 12:25 PM   #19 (permalink)
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How un helpful. His issue hevti trying to fix is not an isdue. Its normal. Or I can tell him whch fuse an now neither door lock works. Or a simple look in the manual will tell him which fuse.

As to stop pulling fuse comment. He's posted two issues. And rather then fix he is pulling fuses. Our cars are sensitive to voltage changes. Hell LEDs will disable our traction controll.

So usefull. Dam straight it was.

Smart ass!

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Well apparently it worked for Animefreak.

And "What you are hearing is it trying to lock the passenger door. If it is already locked it is just bumping the solenoid. Thats ok."… that is not ok by the way. What is ok is if when we pressed unlock the damn thing actually would unlock; or if we pressed lock it would lock.

Side note, what is "hevti"???… or "isdue"?…

Smart ass!
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Old November 1st, 2013, 02:14 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Well apparently it worked for Animefreak.

And "What you are hearing is it trying to lock the passenger door. If it is already locked it is just bumping the solenoid. Thats ok." that is not ok by the way. What is ok is if when we pressed unlock the damn thing actually would unlock; or if we pressed lock it would lock.

Side note, what is "hevti"??? or "isdue"?

Smart ass!

I interpited his post as it was bouncing the solinoid when he hit the drivers button. Not that it was not unlocking. And he was looking to pull the fuse to stop it.

And yes if the passenger door is locked and you hit lock on the drivers door the system WILL bump the lock solenoid on the passenger door. NORMAL. It even bumps the rear hatch lock.

So my comnent was helpful, just for different question But at least I tried to help where yours never attempted to help. Juat sayin.

That's where this site and c4gnation differ. On the nation people would chime in an say 'I think he ment this'. Where here, there are more people looking to bash and ridicule.

Side note = Fat fingers trying to type on a small phone keyboard and failing to proofread my note

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Old June 10th, 2015, 08:49 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Did replacing both actuators fixed the issue??? Im having the same issue
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Old June 10th, 2015, 04:05 PM   #22 (permalink)
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DOOR TRIM PAGE 52A-34
DOOR HANDLE AND LATCH PAGE 42-72
http://tearstone.com/eclipsefsm/2006...001100-52A.pdf

KEY RING ANTENNA . . . . . . . . . . 54A-50
http://tearstone.com/eclipsefsm/2006...002100-54A.pdf

It has also been noted if you have a bad battery, or poor connection at the battery posts that the locking system can have problems.
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Old June 11th, 2015, 10:31 AM   #23 (permalink)
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Did replacing both actuators fixed the issue??? Im having the same issue
You have to look at what the possibles are of both actuators going bad at the same time, very slim!!!

Can you give us more details of what is happening with your door locks and what your key does and does not due, this will be most helpful.
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Old June 15th, 2015, 09:15 AM   #24 (permalink)
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You have to look at what the possibles are of both actuators going bad at the same time, very slim!!!

Can you give us more details of what is happening with your door locks and what your key does and does not due, this will be most helpful.
If i press the lock button you just hear a small clicking noise. Even if i press the fob or either side it does the same thing. I changed the fuse that goes under the hood and no luck. I was thinking about the ECU
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Old June 16th, 2015, 01:52 PM   #25 (permalink)
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GROUP 54B SIMPLIFIED WIRING SYSTEM (SWS) PAGES 194, 130
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GROUP 42 BODY PAGES 88, 90, 93, 96
http://tearstone.com/eclipsefsm/2006...0005400-42.pdf
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http://tearstone.com/2006-eclipse-fa...ervice-manual/


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Old July 21st, 2016, 09:40 AM   #26 (permalink)
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Power door locks

Would anyone have a suggestion on how to fix my power door lock? my remote does not lock or unlock the doors the battery seems fine.
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Old July 21st, 2016, 10:32 AM   #27 (permalink)
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I know this is an old thread, but I have this same issue with my passenger side door, and it pisses me off. It wont lock or unlock, and does the fabled "trying its best" jiggle. No one has given a definitive answer, so I will myself when I discover it.

More than likely I'm sure the actuator went bad, however I'm going to check for any loose wiring or mechanical issues when I take my door apart to install a new 6x9, if thats fine I will check the fuses. If thats fine, I will replace the entire actuator, and go from there. I replaced the battery in my key so I know thats not the issue.

Hopefully I can find a solution for the forum and any future 4g owners soon! However, talk is cheap...
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Old July 21st, 2016, 11:05 AM   #28 (permalink)
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Best of luck man.. There's now deff answer because nobody can figure this out.. People have replaced the actuator and it's not the issue


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Old July 21st, 2016, 11:13 AM   #29 (permalink)
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The thread kind of died, who replaced the actuator and had it still not work?
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Old April 26th, 2017, 01:02 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Door lock actuator motor.

Hi guys,

I have the well known door lock malfunctioning issue, so I took my door apart to try to fix it.

I'm certain that the problem is the small motor that goes inside the actuator, because I sprayed some brake cleaner on it and it worked for a limited number of times... sort of...

The problem is it was reversed, locking when I pressed the unlock button on my key.

What could be the cause of this? I already ordered some replacement motors that will fit, but I'm not entirely sure about the spinning direction...
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Old April 26th, 2017, 11:37 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Reversed polarity, reversed direction of a motor. Did someone put the wires on backwards? Lol
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Old April 27th, 2017, 10:56 AM   #32 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sabertooth^2 View Post
Reversed polarity, reversed direction of a motor. Did someone put the wires on backwards? Lol
Sounds like so, but I don't get it, I didn't deal with any wiring, the motor just fits into 2 tip connectors and the door lock actuator connector is secured by a clip, so it's one way only also.

The only electrical mod that the car has is aftermarket HID's, maybe that has something to do with it? I know this cars may have weird electrical issues lol Is there any other wiring that I should check?

Thanks!
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Old April 27th, 2017, 12:35 PM   #33 (permalink)
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I blew my cabin light fuse when I was installing an LED (another reason to disconnect the battery before doing electrical work) and my doors wouldn't lock at all. Check that fuse, can't remember which one it was, but after I replaced that fuse, I didn't have any issues.
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Old May 9th, 2017, 12:56 PM   #34 (permalink)
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It may be useful for someone in the future so:

The door lock actuator motor was the problem, don't know how it got reversed polarity because they were the originals, anyway, I replaced them with new motors, the originals were fc-280pt-22150, but I put fc-280pt-22125 flat tip and they work just fine.
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Old June 3rd, 2017, 09:27 AM   #35 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pinturicchio View Post
It may be useful for someone in the future so:

The door lock actuator motor was the problem, don't know how it got reversed polarity because they were the originals, anyway, I replaced them with new motors, the originals were fc-280pt-22150, but I put fc-280pt-22125 flat tip and they work just fine.
Yes. I just did my passenger side yesterday in about 30 mins start to finish. I would recommend testing the motor first before dropping money on a complete actuator. It's not much more work than replacing the actuator and a lot cheaper. I paid a total of $6.50 for the motor. I'm sure you can find them cheaper if you search, just make sure to get the flat tip standard length shaft motor like pinturicchio said. Either fc-280pt-22150 or fc-280pt-22125. When I searched I couldn't find this info, which would be handy to have somewhere.



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Old July 25th, 2017, 03:58 PM   #36 (permalink)
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Not sure if it will help anyone or it may sound dumb, but the main positive post/stud on fuse box when u lift cover off under the hood. Make sure it's not loose mine was a 10mm nut, white white on 2007 Eclipse GS...fixed my no a/c blowing and door locks not working.
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Old July 28th, 2017, 04:51 PM   #37 (permalink)
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So i am having the same door lock/unlock problem as everyone else. I just purchased the replacement motors for the actuators, and am ready to get started, but i have one more problem. At this point, my locks are so bad, i cannot even open the passenger door from the inside OR the outside. Any suggestions on how to get the door open, so i can get the door panel off on the pass side? I was hoping to replace both sides this weekend.
Thanks in advance.
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Old August 5th, 2020, 05:16 PM   #38 (permalink)
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Old thread, same issue. Passenger door lock trying to work, but it doesn't. Bizarre! Pulled the RS door panel, changed the actuator, same thing, didn't fix the problem. Car is all stock. Anyone find a fix for this bizarre problem?
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