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Old April 20th, 2020, 06:54 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Long story short "3.6l gt V6 manual 2007" prior to a timing belt rebuild I installed 6 new coil packs. After replacing the water pump timing belt and pulleys and tensioner I reinstalled everything and had a misfire. At the time I didn't realize it was an interference motor. I drove it an hour to get the breathalyzer recalibrated no new issues. Drove it back an hour to my garage to tear it apart thinking I messed up the rebuild. Found nothing wrong with the rebuild drove it back an hour for the another breathalyzer calibration Upon returning home the car would not start. Upon further inspection I found coil pack 3 was melted inside the cylinder. I replaced coil pack 3 still no start I presume because ignition fuse one was blown, had the breathalyzer removed, rebuilt the motor , replaced the bent valves, now the ECU signal wire shorts out on coil pack 6 only. if I delete the wire (keeping ground and 12v plugged in) it doesn't short out and runs on 5 cylinders. I removed the ECU and tested continuity on coil pack 6 + 3 signal wires and received sporadic readings in correlation to the other coil pack signal wires. I'm assuming my ECU is fried due to the inaccurate readings and the corrosive looking film on the underside of my ECU ("battery acid" from a cap or xformer etc.) I checked the wiring from the breathalyzer and found a few issues but none seem to be correlated. Im not an expert on ecu's or electonic engineering in general but my guess is that due to the bad cp#3 "something" in the ecu overheated and caused damage. It seems like i have some cp's registering to the ground on the pcb but not all (short to ground fault?) Im hoping i can get some readings to compare b4 forking out the money for a replacement ecu and teaching myself how to mmcflash etc. 1860a516 is the ecu number. Ive been searching everywhere on this site and any c.o.p. 0 wasted spark ignition system forums and havent come remotely close to finding the same issue.

P.s. the second i introduce a new cop signal wire from the ecu to 6, the ign1 10amp fuse under the steering column blows. If its plugged in prior it blows immediately after a start (1 revolution possibly a full cycle) but it does start. And no its not the c.o.p. swapped it with 4 and have the same issue on cyl 6.

Last edited by Krabz; April 20th, 2020 at 06:57 AM.
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Old April 20th, 2020, 07:05 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Opposite the pad covered in yellow are the 2 black chips(top and left), the one on the left has some gunk under it as u may be able to see from the last pic
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Old April 20th, 2020, 07:25 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Breathalyzer? How is that wired in?

Was the car ever flooded?
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Old April 27th, 2020, 03:33 AM   #4 (permalink)
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The ignition interlock device was poorly installed under the steering column interrupting the power between the ignition switch (key side) and the ignition system under the hood, essentially an inline immobilizer (via signal interruption). Definitely a hack job install (cut insulation away, wrap wire lead in a ball around exposed wire, tape) and removal (cut and leave balled up lead on "splice") which i fixed. Engine compartment has never been flooded neither has the console. Assuming without verifying, they were ground and/or alarm system splices. Main power was the only soldered splice.

Outside of the misfire the car starts and runs "fine" as long as C.O.P. #3 and C.O.P. #6 signal wires are not both hooked up to the ecu (wire 144 and wire 134 connector B-22). Ohms test showed no shorts; regardless I "deleted" C.O.P. #6 ECU signal wire, soldered new wire outside of the harness yielding no change.
ground and power can be connected just not those 2 specific signal wires which if i understand, the C.O.P. signal wire tells the cop transistor to open/close the path to ground.

Mostly convinced my issue is not in the harness, specifically under the hood( visually and physically checked most of it. Tore apart and redid the secondary harness ( cyl 1,3,5 C.O.P./M.F.I. wires) all tests pass.
I have tried swapping CoPs around, problem doesnt move.

Running the car on 1,2,3,4,5,6(w.o ecu wire 134) no blown 10a IGN 1 fuse
Running the car on 2,4,6, no blown fuse (rear harness to cyl 1/3/5 unplugged)
No blown ign fuse during crank, as soon as the cylinders fire and the car starts, the fuse pops and the car dies.

The fact that it starts and runs makes me believe its not a 3rd party issue IE: Cam/Crank sensor/C.O.P./Starter ground/Alternator/harness short to ground/Ign. Int. Dev. wiring issue.

The Ecu physically gave me some red flags
1. Discoloration (yellow/amber color) on 1 section of the PCB unsure if its dielectric grease/ flux or if its residue from a bad component (specifically the black square "chip" on the left of the last picture)
2. Sporadic inconclusive results from ecu continuity pin tests (1-6 signal wires)
2a. Results: Some signal wire pins showed contin. to ground, but not all. Cont tests between all wires show no patterns, higher cont between 3 and 6 some between others and some show nothing or out of loop @ 20Mohms
3. The car ran fine before the rebuild, drove it WAAAAY too far on a misfire due to faulty C.O.P. where an active signal wire with no path was trying to communicate with C.O.P. #3 [new DoA part i overlooked thinking it was timing/rebuild related misfire, bought new sparkplugs, found it and drilled it out, replaced it with a new one no more start (blown ign1 fuse which i found after most recent rebuild *bent valves/heads overhauled*)]
3a. Is it possible for the misfire to cause ecu damage? (3 trips, ~1-1.5 hrs on the highway) CoP was melted from the top of the spark cyl to just before the rubber boot a good 75% of the whole C.O.P.

Only thing i can really think to check is each COP signal wire output off the ecu, theoretically I should see power to 6 and 3 at the same time if they are shorting, or small reading/large reading (short/spark) alternating.

I know its alot but any and all ideas and thoughts are appreciated!
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Old April 27th, 2020, 05:57 AM   #5 (permalink)
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What the hell do you mean by C.O.P.? And that interlock device sounds like an electrical nightmare that has permanently fucked it your cars wiring and is a good way to kill yourself if it loses connection while driving
Also why don’t you get a scan tool to see what codes the car is throwing

Last edited by pcfreak4; April 27th, 2020 at 06:01 AM.
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Old April 27th, 2020, 08:43 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Coil over plug ignition. Aka coilpack.

And if it loses connection while driving, it just doesn't fire on that cylinder. Definitely not a dangerous situation, and is repairable.

Also, buying a scan tool is so below what he has already diagnosed. Knowing what testing he's done to get to this point, that's an insulting thing to read, as it's far more advanced what he has done already than I've known you to ever do, and would tell him nothing relevant he doesn't already know
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Old April 28th, 2020, 07:04 AM   #7 (permalink)
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I was talking about what if the breathalyzer lost connection and cut the ignition key off
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Old April 28th, 2020, 09:31 AM   #8 (permalink)
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I feel that opening the ecu and looking at the board to see if something blew is the way to go based on his findings. At the very least, see if there's an opening burned through the housing. It wouldn't be easy for a fluid from a blown capacitor to get out, but it's worth looking at.

His problem is a misfire, he found evidence of a blown capacitor, he's probably traced the harness, he's done bypass wiring. Now wouldn't hurt to check the end of the circuit where there's evidence of a rare issue, in uncommon circumstances
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Old May 5th, 2020, 10:54 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Hey guys sorry for the late response. Idk if you cant see the ecu pics or if they've just been overlooked. I had 20M ohm'd and 20 ohm'd nearly every wire in every harness under the hood for O.O.L., ground, and hot shorts. Nothing appeared faulty (all showed out of loop on 20M or accurate readings from input to output). BAIID is removed completely. OBD-2 will tell me NOTHING (misfire cyl 3 or 6, w.e signal wire is cut from the ecu) im almost completely convinced its an ecu issue (upon initial inspection doesnt look like a capacitor , more like a chip with white-ish/yellowish liquid excretion on pcb of ecu, both sides mainly the back.)

Side note im high functioning autistic/asbergers intelligent, not tryin to boast, just trying to weed out any more irrelevant questions etc. Ive been building pc's for 22 years, working on cars nearly as long and ive taught myself nearly everything i know using science and logic (3 flawless rebuilds 85 camaro rebuild restore ,oil pan to valve covers,. 06 eclipse gt v6 std. full powertrain rebuild, 2001 Malibu v6 resurfaced lower and heads to v.c. rebuild, and this project 07 eclipse gt std rebuilt 3 times looking for d.o.a.- coil *replaced all 6 b4 rebuild 1 was dead 1 spring was bent (3, 5) on plug while assuming bad rebuild, then rebuilt replacing bent valves and c.o.p. #3 and #5 +1 for diag. Totally melted c.o.p.#3 in spark plug cyl to the ins. Boot of the c.o.p. #3) its not the harness under the hood. Its not a water damaged pcb or harness.

Under the influence it was a non interference *misinformed* motor, i drove the car on an unrelated misfire for an hour ish 3 times (D.O.A. coil pack.) Im assuming i have ecu damage from either returned power on the signal wire or something relative.

all I require is some continuity readouts of the coil on pack signal wires (between each other specif. 3 and 6 vs 1 2 4 5) and/or confirmation that all or no signal wires should ground to the ecu pcb ground
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Old May 5th, 2020, 12:02 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Anyone with a V6 and a multimeter wanna jump in here and help with with those readings?
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Old May 5th, 2020, 03:31 PM   #11 (permalink)
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1860a516 ecu, last plug B-22 (large, bottom), true continuity test (ohms not a light) between pins 134 and 144, if 0, problem solved to be safe also check 134 and 144 to 148, 150, 151 and 143. When I did the test I had all plugs disconnected from the ECU and had continuity between 134 and 144 but didn't have continuity between all 6 signal wires. Just make sure your testing the right pins I believe that picture is supposed to be the plug so the pins are backwards if I recall correctly. If anybody can verify my assumption I would greatly appreciate it, assuming this is the issue I will be in the market for an ECU, and either the tool to transfer the data or somebody with the tool and knowledge to do it for a fee. Thank you all for your input! 🙂
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Old May 5th, 2020, 06:31 PM   #12 (permalink)
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The pin diagrams of the connectors are from the backside
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Old July 15th, 2020, 11:02 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Had the ecu cloned for 550 to a new one, problem solved!! I'm assuming my coil driver in the ecu was shot creating a short between cylinders 3 and 6 which is why the car ran (on 5 cyl) with 1 of the 2 signal wires cut without blowing the ign1 fuse. Drove the car on a misfire (d.o.a. coil plug replacement) to accomplish this feat x.x

Now just have to loosing the timing belt a bit, she's a bit 2 tight x.x
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