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Old October 24th, 2012, 08:35 PM   #1 (permalink)
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software for immobilizer disable

I had a damaged ECU and replaced it with another matching one from another same vehicle. The replacement ECU is not matched to the new vehicle so
it will not start due to immobilizer and the key is programmed to original ecu I am asking all ECUflash, MMCflash, EVOscan users. What works best to disable the immobilizer in my 4G Eclipse GS.

Anyone else done it?
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Old October 24th, 2012, 08:42 PM   #2 (permalink)
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alot of the newer ecm and pcm"s are flashed vin specific and can not ever be used in other than original vin"d vehicle....have never seen one that could be reflashed to another car, gl and hope yours worx out for ya...ps welcome to the club.
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Old October 24th, 2012, 08:47 PM   #3 (permalink)
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alot of the newer ecm and pcm"s are flashed vin specific and can not ever be used in other than original vin"d vehicle....have never seen one that could be reflashed to another car, gl and hope yours worx out for ya...ps welcome to the club.
Wrong, they can be used. I'm not sure which software but one of them will disable the immobilizer but pretty sure you will have to take the car to the dealer to get your key programmed to the ECU.
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Old October 24th, 2012, 08:52 PM   #4 (permalink)
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gl with that..Iwork at a dealership and they will def tell you you need to buy a ecu due to the fact you could steal a ecu get key made and then place back in that car...and bing bang boom they helped you steal a car........
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Old October 24th, 2012, 08:54 PM   #5 (permalink)
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we get shit tons of used car lots that try the same things all the time,they always have to buy new ones.free of a vin# and have them flashed for theirs
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Old October 25th, 2012, 01:01 AM   #6 (permalink)
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try a locksmith to program the key...they checked my registration and stuff before they programmed my key when i lost mine...
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Old October 25th, 2012, 08:03 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I have helped several guys out in this area. They fry or brick their ECU, buy a scrapper one, can't get it to work and the dealer tells them they need to buy a $1800 PCM because they can't reprogram them unless you have the original keys. I have the genuine MUT tool from Mitsu but I haven't figured out how to recode the immobilizer either.

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Old October 25th, 2012, 08:06 PM   #8 (permalink)
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tiz like i was sayn.........hmmmm i hate to be right,
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Old November 12th, 2012, 01:01 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Can't he just erase the immobilizer in the .bin file via bench flashing it? Just wondering.....
Since my ecu is acting up, do to water damage, I will need a new one soon and do the same.
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Old November 12th, 2012, 09:26 AM   #10 (permalink)
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I am uncomfortable with the legal implications of disabling the immobilizer.

There is still good news. I'm going to work on a 1 shot deal that reads and programs the immo code on first use. This way you can replace the ECU, have it programmed with your VIN. Plug it in and your immo code will set itself up.

Either way you slice it you'd still need to purchase exactly the same label code ECU as you had before. I've found that even the year can be a guess as the build date dictates what sensors and such were used on your vehicle. This explains why the dealer will frequently ask for the VIN. So far I've found some of the MAF tables are different and the fuel gauge calibration is different.

-Michael
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Old November 12th, 2012, 09:29 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Can't he just erase the immobilizer in the .bin file via bench flashing it? Just wondering.....
Since my ecu is acting up, do to water damage, I will need a new one soon and do the same.
No, immo disable is not like the EVO. If you erase it the system just assumes that your immo init code is 0xffff 0xffff and unless it happens to be that the car just won't start.

-Michael
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Old November 27th, 2012, 01:38 AM   #12 (permalink)
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No, immo disable is not like the EVO. If you erase it the system just assumes that your immo init code is 0xffff 0xffff and unless it happens to be that the car just won't start.

-Michael
My ecu is damage but I was able to ready my rom file. Now the question is if I was just to copy my immo init code then replace in the new ecu will it work? Were is the code address btw?
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Old November 27th, 2012, 02:01 AM   #13 (permalink)
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In fact, it's a matter of 5 minutes. Information about the keys recorded in the chipset EEPROM. It is located in the ECU. Chip little 8 pin. If you delete it, then you can run any car of this model. It is against the law. The dealer is obliged to recorded the keys in the ECU.
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Old November 27th, 2012, 02:15 AM   #14 (permalink)
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In fact, it's a matter of 5 minutes. Information about the keys recorded in the chipset EEPROM. It is located in the ECU. Chip little 8 pin. If you delete it, then you can run any car of this model. It is against the law. The dealer is obliged to recorded the keys in the ECU.
Chip little 8 pin??? confused...
If I open my rom file in a hex editor were would it be located?
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Old November 27th, 2012, 02:26 AM   #15 (permalink)
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I meant chipset 8 pin, which is lower than the processor.
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Old November 27th, 2012, 02:47 AM   #16 (permalink)
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I meant chipset 8 pin, which is lower than the processor.

can you pin out in detail which one needs to be desolder?
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Old November 27th, 2012, 11:26 AM   #17 (permalink)
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With the evo the immo code was stored in the flash image. The hardware for the lancer/eclipse includes a serial eeprom on the board. This stores the immobilizer code and a number of other config items such as the ETC parameters, cruise control, Spyder has some additional hardware config stuff but I don't know what it does...

If you are able to find the identical hardware, same label code, same board ID and same base firmware then you can copy both the serial EEPROM with a relative chance of success. This is assuming the ETC firmware is the same.

If you dump your EEPROM from the busted ECU and from the new one and send me both images I can probably patch the immo code in for you and fix the checksum. Depending on the ECU the code is sometimes in a different location. This would be your safest bet because then you know the ETC settings will match the onboard ETC processor (that's the little one above the main processor).

So when you put this all in perspective you can understand why I take a dim view on people trying to write the wrong ROM to their car. What happens if you put a 2011 ROM on a 2009 ECU? The 2011 has overheat protection that sets the minimum and maximum throttle angles.

In the 2011 those spots in the serial eeprom are 0x06 (minimum) and 0x64 (maximum). In the 2009 those spots are 0xff and 0xff. So you're cruising through a schoolyard and unbeknownst to you the car starts overheating. Suddenly the ETC gets the signal that the coolant temp passed 210F and goes into overheat protection mode. It decides the minimum possible throttle angle is WOT and the maximum throttle angle is WOT...

Will a different rom work properly on different hardware? It's really really hard to know. Mitsubishi has well over 100 different roms out there just for the eclipse. They all have firmware changes. Some are simple changes to calibration tables, more are a lot more significant.

So please, play it safe. I'll even spend time patching your EEPROM for free. At best your guess may work perfectly, at worst it could blow your engine or cause some critical system to malfunction and kill people.

-Michael
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Old November 27th, 2012, 11:57 AM   #18 (permalink)
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can you pin out in detail which one needs to be desolder?
Check out IC37. Mitsubishi has their own numbering scheme for all the chips and that's not really what they are. On that one I put a logic analyzer to figure out which pins did what but most serial eeproms are the same.



Dunno if the attachment will work... At the top you have the electronic throttle controller. It has its own onboard firmware and has to match the main CPU ROM. Below that you have the main CPU with a ROM inside. Below that you see to the left of the crystal the serial eeprom which has config data for both the ECT and the main CPU. If the car has an AT it also has some AT config options but I haven't worked most of this stuff out yet.

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Old November 27th, 2012, 03:08 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hackish View Post
With the evo the immo code was stored in the flash image. The hardware for the lancer/eclipse includes a serial eeprom on the board. This stores the immobilizer code and a number of other config items such as the ETC parameters, cruise control, Spyder has some additional hardware config stuff but I don't know what it does...

If you are able to find the identical hardware, same label code, same board ID and same base firmware then you can copy both the serial EEPROM with a relative chance of success. This is assuming the ETC firmware is the same.

If you dump your EEPROM from the busted ECU and from the new one and send me both images I can probably patch the immo code in for you and fix the checksum. Depending on the ECU the code is sometimes in a different location. This would be your safest bet because then you know the ETC settings will match the onboard ETC processor (that's the little one above the main processor).

So when you put this all in perspective you can understand why I take a dim view on people trying to write the wrong ROM to their car. What happens if you put a 2011 ROM on a 2009 ECU? The 2011 has overheat protection that sets the minimum and maximum throttle angles.

In the 2011 those spots in the serial eeprom are 0x06 (minimum) and 0x64 (maximum). In the 2009 those spots are 0xff and 0xff. So you're cruising through a schoolyard and unbeknownst to you the car starts overheating. Suddenly the ETC gets the signal that the coolant temp passed 210F and goes into overheat protection mode. It decides the minimum possible throttle angle is WOT and the maximum throttle angle is WOT...

Will a different rom work properly on different hardware? It's really really hard to know. Mitsubishi has well over 100 different roms out there just for the eclipse. They all have firmware changes. Some are simple changes to calibration tables, more are a lot more significant.

So please, play it safe. I'll even spend time patching your EEPROM for free. At best your guess may work perfectly, at worst it could blow your engine or cause some critical system to malfunction and kill people.

-Michael
I just sent you an email with rom file from the damaged ecu, hopefully you read the file.....
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Old November 27th, 2012, 05:55 PM   #20 (permalink)
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That was the firmware you sent from a 2009 GS At. Already have a definition built for that one. What I need is the file from the serial EEPROMS.

-Michael
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Old November 28th, 2012, 03:54 AM   #21 (permalink)
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I think this hardware/software can do it!!!!
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Old December 4th, 2012, 05:55 PM   #22 (permalink)
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I have a 2006 Eclipse GS manual and had a mediocre collision that has been repaired. They're ingenious idea of routing the main engine harness to the front corner of the vehicle and then back along fender rail is idiotic, so what happens? Wires get cut and touch. All was repaired and triple checked but no start. No spark ever and fuel only when turning over. I am not 100% sure it is immo. Could be something else burnt out having to do with crank sensor or spark signal within the ECU. I can connect to the ECU with my diagnostic software which is good but it keeps throwing codes for example the coolant sensor. I even replaced it checked wiring and still comes back, I don't remember all codes but like 4 of them and after erasing they would all come back. I then replaced that original ecu with another of same part number and found to throw one code, I believe pedal position sensor which isn't important being it needs to recalibrate. It is a possibility that something else and not immobilizer could be burnt causing a no start inside the ECU. But even a replace with a matching unit then you got the problem of different vin and code. A no win scenario. Its too bad and I even have the original ecu with key and another ecu. I did have a locksmith look at it. Not sure if he tried reprogramming the original key but we did order another 70 dollar key and used a token(whatever that is) tried programming that new key to the replacement ecu and no start. I have no clue but I wander if the ecu needs to be matched to the ETACS unit in the car also?

Yeah idk, its alot of crap. No mits stealership nearby to me. Like 300 miles and if I brought it to them I know I would see their faces go HUH?

For now it looks like I will just have a nice new paint eclipse with a fancy body kit, wheels, and lowered to look at in garage. LOL

Hopefully after holidays I can spend more attention to it, and watch forums and see others with ecu problems.
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Old December 5th, 2012, 01:05 AM   #23 (permalink)
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If you have a 2006 car how did you manage to read and send me a 2009 ROM? You can't just randomly switch this crap around. You can't just randomly throw another ECU in the car and expect it to work properly! At minimum you need one with the same label code.

By the sounds of it your problem may not be the ECU at all. Was it physically damaged?

-Michael
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Old December 5th, 2012, 08:52 AM   #24 (permalink)
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If you have a 2006 car how did you manage to read and send me a 2009 ROM? You can't just randomly switch this crap around. You can't just randomly throw another ECU in the car and expect it to work properly! At minimum you need one with the same label code.

By the sounds of it your problem may not be the ECU at all. Was it physically damaged?

-Michael
I'm sorry that is not the topic. I have tried different versions of ECU (year of publication), the most frequently they can work, but some functions do not work, however, the car runs and drives. More often than not works cruise control. The same is not interchangeable ECU up to 2005 (processor 8302) with a new ecu (processor 8304). This is the same for Eclipse 4, Galant 9, Endeavour, Grandis.
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Old December 5th, 2012, 09:03 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Hey Hackish, quick question...

Why do I feel like at one point you had a solution for replacing an ECU? I thought you could even do an ECU swap so there wasn't any downtime to reflashing a unit...?

I remember there being a lot of talk on the boards about getting a used ECU off ebay as a spare and having that one reflashed to use in their car, and I thought this was possible...it isn't?

So if an ECU gets fried or goes bad, the ONLY option is a new one from the dealer?
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Old December 5th, 2012, 01:51 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Hey Hackish, quick question...

Why do I feel like at one point you had a solution for replacing an ECU? I thought you could even do an ECU swap so there wasn't any downtime to reflashing a unit...?

I remember there being a lot of talk on the boards about getting a used ECU off ebay as a spare and having that one reflashed to use in their car, and I thought this was possible...it isn't?

So if an ECU gets fried or goes bad, the ONLY option is a new one from the dealer?
Post #17 above applies more to playing russian roulette with installing the wrong firmware on an ECU. Stayer already points out that some odd things stop working if you put a different version in. Cruise control stops working - probably because the ETC code is the wrong version for the cruise control commands in that firmware. Mitsubishi has checks and balances in their factory flashing stuff to specifically prevent you from installing the wrong firmware on an ECU. Bypassing those checks without fully understanding what you're doing is simply crazy and the electronic throttle code is playing with fire.

Now on swapping an ECU over, I am able to disable the immobilizer. I have been able to do that for a while. I'm afraid of legal implications. As a result I have to design a different way to do it.

The old swapping ECUs over came from before I wrote the software to reflash the computer over a tactrix cable. I don't think it's really a big issue now.

There are other ways to do it if you like. For example get the ECU and key from the scrapyard. Crack the key open and swap the chip. Crack your ECU open and get someone to copy the key code out of your serial eeprom. I can clone one if someone sends me both ECUs.

So, basically you're not entirely out of options.

-Michael
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Last edited by hackish; December 5th, 2012 at 04:39 PM. Reason: edited mistyped acrynom and clarity.
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Old December 7th, 2012, 09:22 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Should I be able to get it running if i found a matching part number ecu along with its matching key and be able to get it running whether or not its the ecu damaged or immo. causing no start?

or

read the eeprom code off the original ecu and flash that data over to the used replacement and be able to use the original key?

or

forget the immo code and disable the immo on the replacement used ecu and use any key to start?

Does anyone know if the ecu needs to be programmed to match any other modules in the vehicle? airbag, etacs, etc

idk with the original ecu but i'm starting to think something else is fried not relating to the immo, but even if that part is fried i need to put in another and then the immo is a problem
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Old November 26th, 2013, 04:06 PM   #28 (permalink)
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I know that I have a 3g and not a 4g but I am having an issue with my immobilizer system. I was hoping that hackish can help me on here! I tried to send you a PM and no luck. If you could PM me or email me I would appreciate it I need help!

Thanks,
Damon
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Old May 9th, 2018, 07:12 AM   #29 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by valspar View Post
Should I be able to get it running if i found a matching part number ecu along with its matching key and be able to get it running whether or not its the ecu damaged or immo. causing no start?

or

read the eeprom code off the original ecu and flash that data over to the used replacement and be able to use the original key?

or

forget the immo code and disable the immo on the replacement used ecu and use any key to start?

Does anyone know if the ecu needs to be programmed to match any other modules in the vehicle? airbag, etacs, etc

idk with the original ecu but i'm starting to think something else is fried not relating to the immo, but even if that part is fried i need to put in another and then the immo is a problem
Is there an answer?
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Old May 16th, 2018, 08:33 AM   #30 (permalink)
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Name: Michael
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hackish is just really nicehackish is just really nicehackish is just really nicehackish is just really nice
Just get a fastworks tune. Does a lot more than just disable the immobilizer.

-Michael
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