So the stroker was just an option I prolly wont go with it thank you for the cryo suggestion is there anything else you see that I could change?Just a quick run through, most prices are pretty reasonable.
For the stock crank, yes, polished can probably do 700hp... But non polished OEM cranks are significantly stronger. Most guys with polished cranks, including when I did it, run into issues that non polished doesn't. The reason is that it's factory nitrided. If you want to make it stronger, get one cryo treated.
As for the 6G72 stroker, I don't think it's worth going to a 6G72 block just to be able to use their cranks.
If you're planning to run the turbo for all it's worth, wastegate size choice doesn't matter. But I'd go larger that way you can have greater low boost control without creep
So everything is custom made from springs valves etc I’m pretty sure they are forging everything specifically for me the goal is to run close to 30psi of boost I want to reach around 800whp, but for just a fwd car imma just be skidding my elbows down the road I’m trying to figure out how to mate the evo trans to the engine, I can ask the company who’s doing this for me if they can make these parts for everyone but idk they are specifically sponsoring my carPistons, rods, springs, valves, cam, fresh OEM bearings, BOV, wastegate, manifold, injectors, piping, intercooler, hoses, and turbo looks to be fine.
What's the goal, 600whp?
And if you could share what part number the pistons, valves, and valve springs are, that would be a great aid to the community
It’s just prices they show me for what it’s worth I am actually getting the whole setup for around 4k but with a deal that I have to put their companies sticker on my car for 3 years there are head studs in there the STD (set) is the head studs this isn’t everything I will be doing to the engine there’s other misc stuff I have already and or have done, the only think I’m iffy about is I have the automatic GT and I want to manual swap to the evoIt'll be interchange items which already carry a part number. That's how my kits work as well. Eg, for pistons VQ35DE SHOULD work. Rods, 6G74. Valves and springs, possibly mustang 5L from a foxbody. I know all those items listed already exist on the open market, I just don't have a list of the part numbers handy. As for mating the evo trans, you'll need to make a bellhousing adapter. That one WILL be custom, but people have made them in their garage at home before with a mill.
Power goal wise, that setup won't do 800whp at 30psi boost. It won't do 800whp in general, the turbo tops out around 700 crank, and the injectors will top out around 650hp (at 90% duty cycle) on gasoline. I also don't see anything on there about head studs, which will be problematic around 10psi.
As for the sponsorship, I hope those are the prices they're just showing you and not charging you, because they're definitely still profiting big if that's the case.
I’m open to any suggestion if you know of any way I can do it better maybe cheaper he’ll I’ll give it a thought but as of rn I gotta wait on insurance I’m an infantryman and we’ll right outside the gate someone decided to try and make a left hand turn on a yellow arrow when I had a green and we got into a fender bender luckily I had a few eye witnesses stay behind so once the insurance takes care of the body work I’ll start on this againThe only spot it has STD (set) is the bearings, and those part numbers are bearings as well. But alright, as long as you know you need them too that's all that matters.
Being an auto, around 600lb-ft torque, you need a torque converter upgrade. I've seen them around now and then, or you can just limit yourself until you go AWD. As for the manual swap, I'm assuming you're gonna be standalone ECU, so there isn't really much more work than adding a clutch, changing brake master cylinder, and adding a clutch master, and swapping shifter/cables. Everything else goes already with requirements for other jobs.
Turbo wise, for 800whp, consider a PT6870. A 6466 will get you a lot closer to your goal as well, but is still on the small side, with a rating of 900hp crank in good conditions. You're going to be running some unequal length manifolds with long piping, which isn't a good start for making maximum rated powers. And even worse, you don't want to run a turbo at 100% of its limit, as you'll kill your shiny new turbo pretty fast. I'd factor an estimated 150hp of losses in on the driveline setup as well, but that's from watching lots of evo builds, not from first hand experience. Wheel weight, driveshaft choice, differentials, brakes, etc will all affect it.
I'm pretty excited to see this all happen.