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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have an 06 GT that has a P2138 and P0057 code . I have disconnected the battery and it goes away until I drive a short while. I cleaned the throttle body and it seems to be operating as it is supposed to. The P2138 code refers to a throttle pedal switch. Is this the same as the throttle position sensor or is this a different sensor/switch ? I can not find a throttle position sensor anywhere without the throttle body. Any ideas where to begin would be appreciated.
 

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I have an 06 GT that has a P2138 and P0057 code . I have disconnected the battery and it goes away until I drive a short while. I cleaned the throttle body and it seems to be operating as it is supposed to. The P2138 code refers to a throttle pedal switch. Is this the same as the throttle position sensor or is this a different sensor/switch ? I can not find a throttle position sensor anywhere without the throttle body. Any ideas where to begin would be appreciated.
I believe there is also a PCM/ECU calibration update, so if you're not tuned and not planning on getting tuned, you could have a dealer update your engine computer

The throttle position sensor is your accelerator pedal, gas pedal; they don't go bad too often
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks 4 the reply . Do you think the Reset / Calibration would fix my issues ? Seems weird that after all of these years it would affect the car now . The only other idea I was thinking about was the throttle body position sensor ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Checked VIN & called dealer . They said flash had been done already. Since car was previously owned , I have nothing else to go on .
 

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Checked VIN & called dealer . They said flash had been done already. Since car was previously owned , I have nothing else to go on .
All you have to do is hook up any generic OBD2 reader and read the ROM calibration ID and if it really is the latest version it will be:

06 GT MT 1860A219GG
06 GT AT 1860A220GD
Depending on transmission

if it isn't GG for MT or GD for AT then it is an older version, you can see this for yourself rather than trust what the dealer says, they're probably just lying to get you off their back because software updates are a pain for them
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I took the accelerator pedal off , cleaned contacts & reinstalled. Put it back together ran great for about 20 minutes and back into limp mode . It throws the P2138 code and 2 oxygen sensor codes . I keep thinking maybe the oxygen sensor codes pop up and trip the P2138 ?
 

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I took the accelerator pedal off , cleaned contacts & reinstalled. Put it back together ran great for about 20 minutes and back into limp mode . It throws the P2138 code and 2 oxygen sensor codes . I keep thinking maybe the oxygen sensor codes pop up and trip the P2138 ?
Why don’t u just pop a new oxygen sensor into it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
That will be my next project . I hate throwing parts into a car and not knowing the real issue . It does need oxygen sensors and wont be a total waste , however I really want to get to the main issue .
 

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Well then unplug your failed O2 sensor and you should get an open circuit code as well to semi test it, and then plug in the opposite sides or swap it with the opposite side sensor to see if the codes move from one bank to the other bank, then you’ll know that it really is just the sensor and not some PCM failure with the internal O2 sensor driver
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
So I ran live data on the TP . The TP is at 16.7% resting , as the pedal is slowly pushed it increases . When I get to about 20 % the percentage dips and then spikes . This tells me there is either a bad TPS or a Bad Accelerator Pedal ( or possibly a bad connection between the two ) . Is it possible that the TPS is out of calibration ? Ive also read that 2 " NEW " Throttle Body & Sensor MAY need to be programmed . I've looked all over and cant find anything out related to programming . Any ideas ?
 

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So I ran live data on the TP . The TP is at 16.7% resting , as the pedal is slowly pushed it increases . When I get to about 20 % the percentage dips and then spikes . This tells me there is either a bad TPS or a Bad Accelerator Pedal ( or possibly a bad connection between the two ) . Is it possible that the TPS is out of calibration ? Ive also read that 2 " NEW " Throttle Body & Sensor MAY need to be programmed . I've looked all over and cant find anything out related to programming . Any ideas ?
No need to program anything like this, calibration would help tho, which is just after reconnecting the battery, turn the key to the On position without cranking the engine, wait about a minute, you can then even roll your foot slowly onto and off the gas pedal, then start the engine and let it learn idle

TPS is in the throttle body though and your code was for the Accerator pedal?
Download the FSM and follow the troubleshooting for your code
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
101739
So I came across this issue . There is a large crack im the PCM housing . The internal board does not seem to be damaged other than it looks as if moisture might have gotten in . Anyone else have this issue ?
 

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I have an 06 GT that has a P2138 and P0057 code . I have disconnected the battery and it goes away until I drive a short while. I cleaned the throttle body and it seems to be operating as it is supposed to. The P2138 code refers to a throttle pedal switch. Is this the same as the throttle position sensor or is this a different sensor/switch ? I can not find a throttle position sensor anywhere without the throttle body. Any ideas where to begin would be appreciated.
Ok, so I am going to post this very helpful bit of information after had spent close to $2k on guesswork and new parts. This is finally how I was able to resolve my P022 error, the MAP code, the MAF code, and lastly the pedal error code. I have to give a huge shout out to the mechanics at Grote Mitsubishi in Fort Wayne, IN for solving this mystery. Granted my throttle position sensor was bad and replaced brand new which took it out of limp mode, however another error code popped up which was the accelerator pedal. even after replacing it , the code was still popping up. The issue was in the wire harness. one of the wires in the mass cluster to the right of the engine injectors and under the plastic encasing was causing the issue. the dealership had to quote the job at costing around $500 with about 3 hours labor involved, however were kind enough to explain how they were able to trouble shoot by wiggling the wire harness and the code would disappear. they suggested that if I were to inspect the wires at the generalized location that I would likely find the issue. I spent an hour and a half on the project, found the wire (crimped and exposed) and my car issues are gone. drove it all around over the weekend to assure that the repair was sustained. My advise, simply inspect your wires. Hope this helps save others a lot of time and money.
 
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