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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey guys, got a 07 eclipse GS for about $1,800 with about 140,000miles last year. Driven it up to 150,000miles and recently been trying to fix her up. Not afraid to get my hands dirty.

Brakes started to slightly squeak about 5 months ago and brake fluid below low line - How long can I go without changing my brakes out? Can I top off until spring? What is the DOT fluid to use?

Unsure when/if previous owner changed timing belt / water pump - Is there a way I can visual inspect these parts to see the state they are in?

Ambient Temperature Sensor went kaput sometime last year. Started reading crazy numbers like -40 degrees feherenheit in summer. Than it just went out and now not reading any number, showing "---". I think I found the ambient temperature sensor, in front of radiator attached to front bumper. But it looks like there are two of them, do they both need to be replaced?

Cruise control has not worked since purchase. No after market lights. But is a rebuild. Cruise control light wont come on in dash. Any suggestions on what to fix? I checked most of the fuses and they look to be okay. I might have missed a few, are their specific ones to check?

Any other tips/tricks that I should know?

Thanks alot everyone! Been googling stuff these past few months and Club4G keeps showing up, thought I'd join.

101861


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If the pads are so low that you're below the fluid level, odds are the pistons are blowing fluid past the seals. Those pads and rotors should have been changed much sooner, and you may also need 4 new calipers or to rebuild them because of waiting. Check each one, if it's grimy and dirty, it probably leaked

No visual inspection of timing components is going to tell you it's still good. If it's visibly bad (cracked, split), it's WAY overdue and unsafe to drive, however.

One is for the temperature display, the other for something I don't recall 100% right now. Air conditioning comes to mind, but no promises.

Cruise control could be a lot of things. Fuses, relays, wheel speed sensors, etc. A good all systems scan tool should be able to tell you what's not communicating, right away. It'll pay for itself in saved time for sure. Kyle will likely point you in the right direction there
 

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Yes as far as the temp sensors go, one is for the temp display in the factory screen that only the up-models had, mine doesn’t

The other temp sensor (the only one on base-level cars like mine) is for the A/C system, both A/C (manual and auto) systems have the temp sensor

As far as identifying which is which, I’d have to dig through the FSM book, my car was wrecked in the front with the whole connector ripped off and I just resoldered a new connector (which took forever to find online) and mounted the new sensor in place in that area last summer

And no you don’t have to replace both, just the one that has failed, be aware that you can’t tell if the A/C one is good or not without a detailed scan tool that can get into the A/C system, and by checking the live data for the correct ambient temp reading and making sure no A/C codes are thrown, mine had a B1012 I believe which was open circuit for the ambient temp sensor on the manual A/C system

As far as cruise control goes, first off, the green light won’t come on in the cluster when you push the cruise on button?
There are very few cruise control system codes that can be thrown, and they are checked with a very specific set of instructions that involves turning the key on while holding the knob in one direction and then once the key is on you flip the knob to the opposite direction; then the green light will blink you the codes (or blink steady pace for no-codes), another procedure will allow you to clear the cruise codes

Be aware there are other things that can disable the cruise, such as fault codes or communication problems with other modules as well such as engine, trans, ABS/trac codes etc.

You need a Autel Diaglink DIY Full system scanner (~$100 on Amazon), does all modules, pays for itself in one use; 1 manufacturer free, add additional for $10 each via PayPal

I’ll dig through the FSM later to get u info on the cruise code check procedure and list of codes, and info about that temp sensor
 

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Looks to be the sensor on the right closer to the drivers side


12 has the read code instructions, 13 is how to attempt to clear them, 15 has the code list

The only codes are for a broken stop light switch on the brake pedal (do your brake lights light when you press the brake pedal?) (there’s also the issue of aftermarket brake/tail lights tripping this...), the cruise switch on the steering wheel going bad (every combination of switch movement or button press on the cruise stalk creates different electrical resistance that is sent back across just 2 wires to the engine computer, which actually controls cruise), or a code saying there’s a problem with the engine computer and related codes stored in it
 

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And I see you mentioned which DOT brake fluid to use. It’s just DOT 3 or DOT4 like any other car.


But according to the 2015 ABS recall that my car had to have its ABS module/pump replaced because of valve sticking inside. Mitsubishi now requires DOT 4 ONLY (see the section at the end about placing a sticker on the firewall, inside the owners manual, and scraping off the “DOT3 OR” part on the cap even

(I’m glad my dealer actually replaced my ABS pump, but they only placed the sticker on the firewall, didn’t bother following through with modifying my manual in the glovebox or scraping off the labeling on the brake reservoir cap lol)

They were really adamant about only using DOT4 from this point forward; claiming DOT3 caused the ABS pump failure

Who knows if it really caused the failure, and DOT3 won’t cause instant failure and was the original fluid, but use DOT4 if possible, DOT3 in emergency use

Whatever u do, don’t use DOT 5/5.1
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Wow thanks guys for all the responses! I wish I would have registered awhile ago and did some of these things in warmer climate. It's a bitch doing stuff in Canadian winters.

I checked my brake pads and they look to still be good, I couldn't see any leaks or anything of that nature. Tell me what you think cause I'm not too mechanically inclined, lol.

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Similar wear on the other ones.

I'll order a new ambient sensor and replace the one closer to the right. Do you remember how to take it off?

Cruise fix might looks like it'll take some time to diagnose. I'll have to come back to your suggestions @pcfreak4, thanks a ton! Yes, both brake lights come on when I press on brake pedal. When I press cruise control button, does not light up in dash.

Will use DOT 4 :)

Also, I have a scan tool and had some error codes trip:
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Regular scan looks to be good:

101874


Sorry about sideways pictures, using a phone to post.
 

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Idk how to remove the temp sensor as mine was broken off and gone from when my car was in a wreck when I got it, it just has push tabs so you just have to pull it out and then push the tab on the clip and slide it off

Is that an innova? Cool looks like you’re at least able to access ABS and airbag codes there

The ABS codes could be disabling cruise

Just try clearing them all and see what comes back

And do the cruise code retrieval in the link I posted on page 12 and 13
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Idk how to remove the temp sensor as mine was broken off and gone from when my car was in a wreck when I got it, it just has push tabs so you just have to pull it out and then push the tab on the clip and slide it off

Is that an innova? Cool looks like you’re at least able to access ABS and airbag codes there

The ABS codes could be disabling cruise

Just try clearing them all and see what comes back

And do the cruise code retrieval in the link I posted on page 12 and 13
Yes sir Innova, bought it from local big box store years ago. Saved me $100s in scanning fees. Never thought to clear those codes, will give it a shot and refer to your manual. Fingers crossed its that simple!
 

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And I see you mentioned which DOT brake fluid to use. It’s just DOT 3 or DOT4 like any other car.


But according to the 2015 ABS recall that my car had to have its ABS module/pump replaced because of valve sticking inside. Mitsubishi now requires DOT 4 ONLY (see the section at the end about placing a sticker on the firewall, inside the owners manual, and scraping off the “DOT3 OR” part on the cap even

(I’m glad my dealer actually replaced my ABS pump, but they only placed the sticker on the firewall, didn’t bother following through with modifying my manual in the glovebox or scraping off the labeling on the brake reservoir cap lol)

They were really adamant about only using DOT4 from this point forward; claiming DOT3 caused the ABS pump failure

Who knows if it really caused the failure, and DOT3 won’t cause instant failure and was the original fluid, but use DOT4 if possible, DOT3 in emergency use

Whatever u do, don’t use DOT 5/5.1
Off topic from the post a bit, but on topic to this comment. Saying not to use 5.1 sounds odd to me, especially because I use a 5.1 rated fluid in all my cars

Info source: Department of Transportation

DOT 3/4/5.1 are all glycol based (triethylene glycol monomethyl ether, a solvent (eg in paint), a hydraulic fluid, and a wetting agent). Borate ester is added as well to increase temperature resistances and other properties. However, the exact ratios are not controlled between the ratings, giving manufactures some range.

DOT 5 is silicone based, and doesn't work in systems with ABS, and will absolutely cause it to fail due to differing compressive behaviours that the ABS modules are not tuned for


DOT 3 lasts the longest, and is least likely to cause corrosion in ABS modules and lines from neglect. It is the lowest heat rating requirement, but individual brands can span from DOT 3 to 5.1 levels. I personally run a DOT3 with a dry boil that makes it DOT5 rated (520f). Low end DOT3 is good for up to 5 years in a sealed braking system untouched before water is an issue. Breakdown can come sooner based on overheating. Broken down DOT3 often has the highest WET boiling point (boiling point when water saturated)

DOT 4 is middle ground heat and life. About 2-4 years before it needs to be changed on the low end stuff. It sits nicely between DOT 3 and DOT 5.1 as you'd expect

DOT 5.1 is usually to be changed every 1-2 years. This is the high end stuff for racing on an ABS equipped car. It is highly prone to absorbing water, even in a sealed system. Broken down DOT5.1 in the real world typically has the lowest WET boiling point


DOT 5 is silicone based (70%+ diorgano polysiloxane by mass), not ABS safe, and to prevent mixing it up must be purple in colour (unlike DOT 3, 4 and 5.1, which are white-amber, anything else such as the Super Blue fluid is NOT DOT approved once it's dyed, regardless of improper labelling suggesting it is. That said, just be aware of what you're using and buying, the Super Blue is a good brake fluid and makes it easy to see if the fluid is bled enough during a full change). DOT 5 is also chemically inert, which exempts it from stability testing aside from heat stability. It does not absorb water. It also can not be mixed with glycol else it will turn into a gel, ruining your brake system at worst, requiring a full ABS rebuild, calipers rebuilt, and lines flushed at best


From the Department of Transportation themselves in regards to how they determine the fluids:
-Pass/Fail Criteria. The ERBP shall not be less than the following value for the grade indicated: (a) DOT 3: 205 °C. (401 °F.). (b) DOT 4: 230 °C. (446 °F.). (c) DOT 5: 260 °C. (500 °F.).
-6.2.6 Pass/Fail Criteria. The wet ERBP shall not be less than the following value for the grade indicated: (a) DOT 3: 140 °C. (284 °F.). (b) DOT 4: 155 °C. (311 °F.). (c) DOT 5: 1 180 °C. (356 °F.).
-6.3.8. Pass/Fail Criteria. The kinematic viscosities in square millimeters per second at stated temperatures shall be neither less than 1.5 mm2/s at 100 °C. (212 °F.) nor more than the following maximum value for the grade indicated: (a) DOT 3: 1,500 mm2/s at minus 40 °C. (minus 40 °F.). (b) DOT 4: 1,800 mm2/s at minus 40 °C. (minus 40 °F.). (c) DOT 5: 900 mm2/s at minus 40 °C. (minus 40 °F.).



Even in testing, DOT 3/4/5.1 are all treated the exact same in the same tools. But DOT 5 is different, and requires special cleaning. It also does not have to conform to the chemical stability tests

I really see zero reason why a DOT4 flush would be a "fix' for any issue that a DOT3 flush wouldn't be. The flush itself to remove old fluid is great, and can clear up particulate that can cause the failure. But what I can find is that Mitsubishi, like many manufactures, switched to DOT4 already by the time of the recall so it makes sense they wouldn't use DOT3. I can guess it's for safety reasons, but it also increases maintenance requirements. Increasing maintenance requirements to force more cars off the road is good for a manufacturer, and if they can brag about increased safety, or at least downsize the brakes when going with a high boiling temperature fluid, it's all a win for them.

From a branding perspective, it makes sense to sell the same product as a DOT 3 and a DOT 4 and a DOT 5.1 when allowed, which they are as everything is based off of minimums, and they can tick all the boxes for each. The brand I buy has the same specs on all 3 bottles. The DOT 3 comes in "'super' DOT 3", Euro/Import DOT4, and DOT 5.1 racing. Price wise, the Euro/Import is the most expensive. Now, knowing that the DOT requirements are based on viscosity, chemical stability, and boiling points, and nothing to do with additives, and they test all but the 5 the same, and a single product can span 3/4/5.1, I think a good argument can be made that DOT 4 isn't a fix, and DOT 3 never was the issue in these cars; but more likely corrosion or defects caused by owner error or a manufacturing flaw was.
 

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My mistake, yeah you’re right, it’s DOT 5 that can’t be used; 5.1 is fine

Sticking with 3/4 is fine

Thanks for the info
 

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No problem. I spent about an hour on that post making sure every little claim was accurate, lol.

But to sum it up: DOT3 is great for a daily (stock car, responsible as fuck driver who does exactly the limit and leaves 1/8 mile space on the highway). Or an owner who ignores maintenance
-Dot 4 for a spirited car (Most of us around here)
-Dot 5.1 for a track toy or other heavy duty use you don't mind fully bleeding yearly as well as every few events (Your Subaru maybe? My tow rig and definitely my GS).
-Dot 5 is for a racecar with no ABS or specially designed ABS that was never intended for a road car (because you're rich as fuck and should probably send your old pal James over here some turbos)
 

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Yeah definitely did not understand why Mitsubishi blamed DOT3 for the cause of the ABS valve sticking problem in the recall for the 06-09? Models affected, and was so adamant about never using anything but DOT4 again
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Hey Boys im still around, just been busy with studying so haven't got around to fixing the car yet. Going to change the spark plugs on her and coils too. Just bought a SUV junker so got two projects over spring/summer to keep me busy. Look forward to keeping in touch boys!
 

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Hey Boys im still around, just been busy with studying so haven't got around to fixing the car yet. Going to change the spark plugs on her and coils too. Just bought a SUV junker so got two projects over spring/summer to keep me busy. Look forward to keeping in touch boys!
NGK Laser Iridium plugs and Denso coils only
 
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