Mitsubishi Eclipse 4G Forums banner

1 - 20 of 36 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I have a 2007 GS with the 2.4 liter engine, 132K miles. My son is the primary (only) driver of this car and it died on him on the highway yesterday. He claims the steering "locked up" but I assume he just means it got hard to steer after the loss of power steering. We were a few miles from home after returning from a vacation about a 5 hour drive away. I circled back around to see if I could help get him home, but I ended up just calling a tow truck and having it brought back to the house.

This morning, I pulled a P0335- Crankshaft Position Sensor. In an attempt to try an fix this problem, I just picked up a new sensor at the local AutoZone and crossed my fingers. After I got it installed this afternoon, the I was having the same problem, but now I pull a P0340- Camshaft Position Sensor.

The car cranks when you try to start it, I can see the serpentine belt turn, but it seems slow. It also sounds different when it cranks, almost like you can hear the starter louder than usual without the normal noises an engine makes- like the engine is turning without actually trying to start. So the P0335 made sense to me. In my mind, the ECU didn't pick up the crankshaft sensor signal, so it's not giving fuel or spark to protect itself? :scratch:

By the time the timing cover was back on and the serpentine belt was installed, the temperature outside dropped considerable, and the same problems persisted but with the new codes. I called it a day and came inside to do more research. I don't want to just keep throwing parts at it. I can't seem to find my exact problem online, so I here asking for your help. I've had considerable success on other forums with some of my previous vehicles, so I know there's got to be a few 2.4 liter gurus here that can help me.

TIA...

Brad

EDIT: In case anyone comes across this thread in the future- the end result was the timing belt failed. It didn't completely snap, a bunch of teeth sheared off and pretty much got stuck on the crankshaft and stopped turning. Every intake valve was bent. I changed all the valves, exhaust as well and the valve seals. I also installed a complete Gates timing belt kit from Rock Auto. Made sure all the timing marks were aligned and put everything back together and she fired right up on the first try. The pistons were a little dinged up from the valves but I cleaned them up a little to make sure there were no raised edges. "It also sounds different when it cranks, almost like you can hear the starter louder than usual without the normal noises an engine makes- like the engine is turning without actually trying to start." This sound I was trying to describe was what is sounds like when the crankshaft is turning from the starter but the camshaft isn't turning. So if you have a similar problem to what I came here looking for answers to, most likely your timing belt is messed up. The best advice I can give you is to tear the whole thing apart and check everything. Make sure you take pictures of EVERY STEP you take during tear down. Then, as you put it together, just follow your pictures backwards so you don't forget anything.

Cheers
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
69 Posts
I have a 2007 GS with the 2.4 liter engine, 132K miles. My son is the primary (only) driver of this car and it died on him on the highway yesterday. He claims the steering "locked up" but I assume he just means it got hard to steer after the loss of power steering. We were a few miles from home after returning from a vacation about a 5 hour drive away. I circled back around to see if I could help get him home, but I ended up just calling a tow truck and having it brought back to the house.



This morning, I pulled a P0335- Crankshaft Position Sensor. In an attempt to try an fix this problem, I just picked up a new sensor at the local AutoZone and crossed my fingers. After I got it installed this afternoon, the I was having the same problem, but now I pull a P0340- Camshaft Position Sensor.



The car cranks when you try to start it, I can see the serpentine belt turn, but it seems slow. It also sounds different when it cranks, almost like you can hear the starter louder than usual without the normal noises an engine makes- like the engine is turning without actually trying to start. So the P0335 made sense to me. In my mind, the ECU didn't pick up the crankshaft sensor signal, so it's not giving fuel or spark to protect itself? :scratch:



By the time the timing cover was back on and the serpentine belt was installed, the temperature outside dropped considerable, and the same problems persisted but with the new codes. I called it a day and came inside to do more research. I don't want to just keep throwing parts at it. I can't seem to find my exact problem online, so I here asking for your help. I've had considerable success on other forums with some of my previous vehicles, so I know there's got to be a few 2.4 liter gurus here that can help me.



TIA...



Brad
Has the timing belt ever been replaced? Sounds like it's jumped a few teeth.

Sent from my ZTE A2017U using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Has the timing belt ever been replaced? Sounds like it's jumped a few teeth.

Sent from my ZTE A2017U using Tapatalk
I bought the car with a little over 100K on the clock about a year and a half ago. I doubt it had a TB replaced by the previous owner. In fact, when I pulled the timing belt cover open, a few "teeth" fell out, maybe 5 or 6 of them. So this is a very good possibility. Looks like I have a project ahead of me.

Thanks for your input.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
283 Posts
I bought the car with a little over 100K on the clock about a year and a half ago. I doubt it had a TB replaced by the previous owner. In fact, when I pulled the timing belt cover open, a few "teeth" fell out, maybe 5 or 6 of them. So this is a very good possibility. Looks like I have a project ahead of me.

Thanks for your input.
I’d say you’ve found the problem...! Hopefully you did not bend a valve (or several).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
528 Posts
Do yourself a favor, remove the spark plugs and rotate the crankshaft with a socket for a few rotations. If it won't spin freely or it gets hung up you will know if something happened.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
286 Posts
When my timing belt snapped cranking it will sound like an empty can and it would spin faster than usual. Also bent 2 valves only(cylinder 2 second valve and cylinder 3 second valve. All others were intact but the car will turn on with some gas. However just those two were enough for the car to be really slow. I redid all this long time ago and now it’s running like a champ. Bought car with 66k miles now at 132k.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
69 Posts
I bought the car with a little over 100K on the clock about a year and a half ago. I doubt it had a TB replaced by the previous owner. In fact, when I pulled the timing belt cover open, a few "teeth" fell out, maybe 5 or 6 of them. So this is a very good possibility. Looks like I have a project ahead of me.



Thanks for your input.
Here's a video of what you're in for. Some members on the group have done their own, some pay a mechanic...it all depends on your knowledge level. As a mechanic myself, I would say it's about a 7/10 as far as knowledge and mechanical ability...you must have done some wrenching and be beyond basic knowledge. Also, all the parts are available as a kit on eBay as the "Gates Timing Belt Kit"...you replace the water pump regardless if it's leaking or not. In your case, you've probably bent some valves, so you will have to send the head out to a local engine shop and have the head inspected for damage and the bent valves replaced. These are non-clearance engines...meaning if the timing belt goes, they grenade.

https://youtu.be/i9LKn7fe5uE

https://youtu.be/VOKfsLTnDTQ

https://youtu.be/ivmtEP6up08

Sent from my ZTE A2017U using Tapatalk
 

·
1st Turbo 4g In Colorado
Joined
·
435 Posts
I bought a gs a few months ago for $300 because of a broken timing belt and it broke the small balance shaft belt too...I said well I have a spare of them both, so 45 mins later the replacement belts were on gave the car a crank, and even to my amazement the car sounded perfect and some how it must of shut off in time to when it first broke to not even bend a single valve or do any damage....its worth a shot to get the car going again?!.......I had this starting issue with WASP, and I was getting the same codes when it turned out the be a frayed wire along the fuel rail that controlled all my spark...Just trying to give as much info as I can to help =).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Here's a video of what you're in for. Some members on the group have done their own, some pay a mechanic...it all depends on your knowledge level. As a mechanic myself, I would say it's about a 7/10 as far as knowledge and mechanical ability...you must have done some wrenching and be beyond basic knowledge. Also, all the parts are available as a kit on eBay as the "Gates Timing Belt Kit"...you replace the water pump regardless if it's leaking or not. In your case, you've probably bent some valves, so you will have to send the head out to a local engine shop and have the head inspected for damage and the bent valves replaced. These are non-clearance engines...meaning if the timing belt goes, they grenade.

https://youtu.be/i9LKn7fe5uE

https://youtu.be/VOKfsLTnDTQ

https://youtu.be/ivmtEP6up08

Sent from my ZTE A2017U using Tapatalk
Thanks for the links, I'll be sure to do as much research as possible before I dive into this project. I've done a TB before on an old Audi, but it was much easier with the belt in the front, not on the side. I'm pretty decent with wrenching, so I'm not too worried about that. But if I did bend some valves and/or damaged some pistons, I'll probably just scrap the whole thing and sell it cheap. Fortunately, I think I may have only jumped a tooth or two and not completely detonated the whole engine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
286 Posts
Thanks for the links, I'll be sure to do as much research as possible before I dive into this project. I've done a TB before on an old Audi, but it was much easier with the belt in the front, not on the side. I'm pretty decent with wrenching, so I'm not too worried about that. But if I did bend some valves and/or damaged some pistons, I'll probably just scrap the whole thing and sell it cheap. Fortunately, I think I may have only jumped a tooth or two and not completely detonated the whole engine.


It’s not hard at all to replace valves. I spent about $200 on new valves and seals and head gasket and bolts for rebuilding just the top. I didn’t even took it to the shop. At 132k miles (96k) when this happened it still goes and pulls strong.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Do yourself a favor, remove the spark plugs and rotate the crankshaft with a socket for a few rotations. If it won't spin freely or it gets hung up you will know if something happened.
So I did this before even checking the timing marks and it spun freely up to one spot then snagged. I could turn through it with just a bit more effort, but there's no way I can just assume none of the valves are damaged... or worse, a piston.

I'm confident I can do the repairs myself, I just don't know if it's worth my time and effort. I'm going to think about it for a bit.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
It’s not hard at all to replace valves. I spent about $200 on new valves and seals and head gasket and bolts for rebuilding just the top. I didn’t even took it to the shop. At 132k miles (96k) when this happened it still goes and pulls strong.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
The wife says rebuild it, so I guess I have a project coming up.

Do you have a list of everything you needed to do the job? I'm thinking head gasket, valve cover gasket, head bolts, however many valves and seals are damaged, and obviously the TB and WP etc. Any surprises I should be aware of before I start tearing things apart?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
286 Posts
The wife says rebuild it, so I guess I have a project coming up.



Do you have a list of everything you needed to do the job? I'm thinking head gasket, valve cover gasket, head bolts, however many valves and seals are damaged, and obviously the TB and WP etc. Any surprises I should be aware of before I start tearing things apart?

Not as difficult as you think but water pump pulley could be a pain. Use a 1/4 inch 10mm socket and ratchet for the pulley. 4 Crank bolts I think they’re 12mm. The idler pulley bolt I think 14mm. The engine mount is either 17mm or 11/16 deep socket for the nuts. I think the serpentine tensioner bolt is 14mm and one 12mm. The serpentine tensioner can be un tensioned using a 1/2 inch ratchet I think. Timing cover bolts and nuts are 10mm. Water pump bolts are 10mm.
So far I think that’s all I remember. You’d want a jack stand and a jack to take the passenger wheel off and lift and lower the engine as needed for clearance. I think that should be all . Don’t forget to unplug the timing belt cover crank sensor on the top of the cover under the hood.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/322058532918

These are the ones I bought.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/322058532918 this is the timing belt kit I bought few months ago.

I highly suggest buying exhaust gasket, intake gasket, valve cover and spark plug gasket and everything gasket related either felpro or mahle. I’ve always trusted those brand and never failed. I ordered most of it from Rockauto but the valves and stem seals.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I've already removed and reinstalled most of what you're talking about when I replaced the crankshaft sensor, so I don't think it will be too difficult to remove them again. I'll probably start tearing into everything tonight after work and order the new gaskets, belts, and widgets once I'm in there and confident I can finish the job on my own.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Well, great news guys. I finally got the head assembly off last night and every single intake valve is bent. The exhaust valves are a little dinged, but I'll replace them too for peace of mind. The cylinders don't look too bad, fortunately, just a little marred. I'll make sure I smooth out any rough edges and such.

The timing belt is most definitely shot. I can push the tensioner down fairly easy with my fingers, so I'm sure that was the culprit.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
283 Posts
Well, great news guys. I finally got the head assembly off last night and every single intake valve is bent. The exhaust valves are a little dinged, but I'll replace them too for peace of mind. The cylinders don't look too bad, fortunately, just a little marred. I'll make sure I smooth out any rough edges and such.

The timing belt is most definitely shot. I can push the tensioner down fairly easy with my fingers, so I'm sure that was the culprit.
You should bring the head to a machine shop. With that much damage, I’d want to make sure the valve guides are still good. Plus, not sure how many miles on the head, but it’s a great opportunity to do a proper valve job, check the head for hairline cracks, and resurface it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
69 Posts
Well, great news guys. I finally got the head assembly off last night and every single intake valve is bent. The exhaust valves are a little dinged, but I'll replace them too for peace of mind. The cylinders don't look too bad, fortunately, just a little marred. I'll make sure I smooth out any rough edges and such.



The timing belt is most definitely shot. I can push the tensioner down fairly easy with my fingers, so I'm sure that was the culprit.
Take Joshinators advice, you don't want to do all this work to find out the guides are bad or the seats are marred etc. The head needs a proper rebuild. Also, are you talking about the head when you wrote "cylinders are marred" or the actual engine cylinders?

Sent from my ZTE A2017U using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
286 Posts
Well, great news guys. I finally got the head assembly off last night and every single intake valve is bent. The exhaust valves are a little dinged, but I'll replace them too for peace of mind. The cylinders don't look too bad, fortunately, just a little marred. I'll make sure I smooth out any rough edges and such.



The timing belt is most definitely shot. I can push the tensioner down fairly easy with my fingers, so I'm sure that was the culprit.


Get the head resurfaced. Buy new valves and have the shop check for clearance on them and if needs new guides buy them and get them done as well. Have the shop profile the seats to the valves you bought as well. That should pretty much have you a good complete head nicely done. Have pics of the block?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
528 Posts
Well, great news guys. I finally got the head assembly off last night and every single intake valve is bent. The exhaust valves are a little dinged, but I'll replace them too for peace of mind. The cylinders don't look too bad, fortunately, just a little marred. I'll make sure I smooth out any rough edges and such.

The timing belt is most definitely shot. I can push the tensioner down fairly easy with my fingers, so I'm sure that was the culprit.
Cylinders Marred? piston top or actual cylinder wall? any marring on the piston heads will cause hot spots and potential for knock. Marring on the cylinder walls will kill your compression as well as oil burning. Check that none of the valves or piston heads chipped a piece off. If anything chipped off your gonna have to find them or tear it down. If all is accounted for definitely bring the head to a machine shop and spend the money to have the head tested for straightness and re-decking. Aluminum heads are notorious for twisting.
 
1 - 20 of 36 Posts
Top