I will say right now that these 2 problems happening might be a coincidence. I have two electrical problems on my 2006 GS: 1 my stereo won't work and throws a "E com" error on the screen. 2. the ac compressor won't engage. I checked the wire going to the compressor with the a/c on and there is no signal, so I assume it is electrical somewhere up the line. Is it possible these two things are related? such as a common connector some where that may have suffered a corrosion problem? I'm no stranger to doing electrical work on; vehicles, farm equipment and metal working machinery. I guess, since this car is getting old and I would really like rebuild/restore it I should get a complete manual.
2006 electrical problems
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1. RF audio system or standard audio (do you have trunk sub and 6 CD changer and Rockford Fosgate printed on faceplate?)
2. Code scan on A/C system, can't figure out if a sensor is out of range without it, Autel MD808 full system scanner or Autel Diaglink can do it for about $100
3. Auto or manual A/C system (just blue-red temp dial? or temp # dial?)
The only common HVAC electronic failure is the blower motor resistor behind the glovebox, usually causes A/C to only engage in certain fan speeds, or the blower itself to work on certain fan speeds
2. Code scan on A/C system, can't figure out if a sensor is out of range without it, Autel MD808 full system scanner or Autel Diaglink can do it for about $100
3. Auto or manual A/C system (just blue-red temp dial? or temp # dial?)
The only common HVAC electronic failure is the blower motor resistor behind the glovebox, usually causes A/C to only engage in certain fan speeds, or the blower itself to work on certain fan speeds
I replaced the resistor last year and the A/C was working fine.... for about two hours. Then the compressor stopped engaging. Fan works exactly the way it is supposed to. It is a manual temp dial with just the blue to red. The stereo is standard.
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It has the stock stereo not an aftermarket?
If so, take it out and make sure the little connector is connected properly, check fuses, is the head unit receiving power first off?
other than manually checking the pressure in the system, anything electronic will be in the module as a code, generic code scan can’t access it
This is how everything went: first the resistor pack went out and all I had was high (4) on the fan. The A/C compressor would kick on, as shown by the green light on the switch dial, when the switch was set at 1,2,3 but the fan didn't work, When I switched it to high, the fan went on but the A/C went out. I replaced the resistor and everything worked fine. I noticed the A/C wasn't getting quite as cold as it should so I added a little freon and brought the pressure up to where it should be. The A/C ran for about two hours and then the compressor clutch stopped engaging. The green light goes on, but no A/C action. This was in the fall, so I wasn't too worried about looking into the problem right away, since the heat works fine. A month later a brake line popped right at the bend where the firewall and the floor panels meet. It got very cold about this time and I don't really drive this car much in the winter, so it was up on stands for a month and a half before I got the brake line fixed, along with new rotors all around and new calipers on the front. The day I completed the brakes I noticed the stereo didn't work and I would get that "e com" error message. So now, the bearings on my alternator burned up and my belt tensioner was froze up. I got all of that fixed and I figured since I am wrenching on the car anyway, I would look into the A/C and stereo problems. One thing I did when I had the alternator out was disconnect the plug to the compressor and put a meter between the incoming line and ground and turned on the A/C... I got no voltage on the line. Not to mention I get continuity between the wire to the compressor and ground. I didn't check the actual resistance, but it isn't a dead short so I figure the coil in the compressor clutch is good
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So you don’t see the A/C pulley engage with the A/C clutch when the engine is on and A/C is supposed to be engaged? You’ll physically be able to see the end of the A/C pulley start spinning with the outsider part of the pulley
Exactly. I have actually replaced the actuating coil for the compressor clutch on other types of vehicles. Unfortunately, this can't be done on an Eclipse A/C compressor. Well, not easily anyway and the part is not available. Either way, the actuator coil is not the problem with my car. I wonder.... is it possible the replacement resistor was defective and only lived for a short time? I disregarded that thought at first because everything else is working the way it is supposed to and the A/C indicator light is on when it is supposed to be on. BTW after unplugging and reconnecting a couple plugs behind the stereo, it decided to start working again! So these problems weren't connected in any way. One down and one to go!
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Good for the stereo!
Yeah the blower resistor you got could be bad, idk what kind you got
I’d really recommend picking up the scan tool I mentioned earlier so you can pull AC codes, it’s great to be able to pull codes and see live data from everything else too
Yeah I need to join the 21st century I guess. I'm an old school gear-head and have been working on stuff forever. I have a decent understanding of how all the electronic sensors and computer controls work in cars, I just never got any updated equipment. I would like to learn more about the programming language and such in computer controls. Something on my to do list
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