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2K views 18 replies 8 participants last post by  Steve_06_Ark 
#1 ·
What do they call the spoiler like trim on the end of the lift gate? Can't find it
in my manual. Mine has a crack in it and it has water in there. Also, the hatch
open push button doesn't work anymore.
 
#3 ·
I'm suspecting maybe part #6515A162XA

"Trim molding".

https://www.mitsubishipartswarehous...lY2xpcHNlJnk9MjAwOSZ0PWd0JmU9My04bC12Ni1nYXM=

I wouldn't bet on it, but it's the only part I can find that makes sense at all.



As for you Kyle, you can pull it off in about 5 minutes by removing the trunk interior trim (just pulls off), undoing to 2 or 4 10mm head nuts, clean out behind it, throw in some silicone, and throw it back on. Nothing will fall down inside
 
#17 ·
water in spoiler

I just dealt with this too. The seal on the spoiler broke years ago (I honestly thought it was suppose to let water pass through it, to be able to flush it out or whatever) but it finally got clogged up and wouldn't drain, which cause mold and the chrome inside started flaking (it's chromed plastic btw).
What I did (and I'm going to be posting pictures soon, but I'm doing a ton of stuff to mine right now) is take off the spoiler (this will require removal of the lid main trim piece). There's 6 screws (there's a guide elsewhere on the forums on how to remove this piece).
There are 3 pieces to the spoiler. An outer clear shell. If it's hazed or yellow you can wet sand it with 2000 grit, just like a headlight.
That's piece appears to only be glued or stuck to the base by a double sided gasket. It was pretty easy to pull it apart without breaking, but my car is a 2006, so it's had a few years to let the glue unbind. Be careful trying to take it apart.
Anyways, I found a household cleaner not only removed the mold and water stains, but unfortunately also removed the chrome paint. Not a problem for me since the ends were moldy and wrecked anyways.
At this point if you're chrome is in tact, I'd just clean it all back up and reseal it using something like liquid nails clear seal or some other silicone adhesive (incase you ever need to get back into it).
Clean it all back up, put a new little rubber gasket on and remount it and enjoy.

Instead, I de-chromed its guts, cut down about 1/2 inch off the tips of the inside mounted piece and installed a 48'' "flowing" LED array (it hooks up to all the rear lights and does great stuff. I used nightshades to darken the clear plastic to the point you can't see anything inside (except the LEDs when they light up).
Like I said, as soon as I get done dynomatting and finish putting it all back together I plan on making a project post on everything.
Good luck, it's scary taking this stuff off the first time, but body work (ext/int) is like a can of pringles... once you pop, you can't stop.
 
#19 ·
Just pulled a 28 hr /5 day bender fat-matting the rear 2/3 of the car, so I haven't had a chance to clear coat and remount the spoiler this week. I'll start a new post about it so I don't derail this guys thread.

As far as pkrbkr17's original question, most people eventually perform a delete on the spoiler (especially if they add an additional spoiler), but I just wanted to point out that you can repair the original and successfully reseal them. I would have just re-sprayed a chrome paint back on mine if I hadn't decided to get "fancy", lol. Just be careful removing the spoiler (there's a good guide already written up on how to remove it) but I will add that mine had a very strong double sided sticky foam gasket all the way around the clear part... I nearly broke it trying to figure out why it was still stuck even though I removed all the screws. If I had known about the seal, I would have used some dental floss or something to cut through it and not put so much strain on the plastics. Just a heads up, if you end up restoring yours.
 
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