I know this must be a repeated post but im having problems with my clutch again.
I have a 07 GT 3.8 V6 6spd eclipse, stock.
My first clutch wore down at 46000 km.
I installed a new clutch at the mitsu dealer on dec 2008 here in toronto, and now at 105000 km march 2011, my clutch shows signs of wear out again.
Hence my question and doubts:
1 - Is it common for you guys to have your clutch replaced so soon?
1 clutch every 2 yrs or so?
2 - What do you guys recommend to get?
O&M?
stage 1?
stage 2?
I use my car on a daily basis, i was told that if i go with stage's clutch the life time is half of the o&m?
Its better and cheaper to go aftermarket. Spec seems to be problem free. Havnt heard any complaints. If you like stock and aren't heavily moded go with stage 1 and stock flywheel and should ride as stock. If you have a good amount of mods then do a stage 2-3 with stick flywheel. Reason I say stock is because all the aftermarkets aren't dual mass and make a clunker noise. Aftermarket aluminum may give you better response and make you a tad faster, I don't know, I never had one. All just as good just a matter of preference I guess. Stock vs a little added grip and performance at the cost of having a funky noise at idle.
Yes, if at all possible stick with the stock flywheel. Correct me if I'm wrong, but once you resurface them once they're done. I priced a new OEM one and they're about 1100 bucks from the dealer.
I am running the SPEC Stage 2+ and just installed it at 70k miles from the stock clutch and mated it to the stock flywheel.
I would recommend staying with the stock flywheel personally. You can go with the one by Clutchmasters and I believe the RRE race car even runs it, but expect to get alot of noise from your transmission. If you're willing to sacrifice the noise and comfort of the stock flywheel for the performance increase of a lighter flywheel then by all means go for it.
For a guy like me that's going to basically keep my ('07 spyder) stock other than a cai and maybe headers/exhaust, would a spec stage 2 be a waste of money?
I have an extremely heavy foot and I know I'm not going to be easy on mine when I replace it.
btw mine is going bad at 52k. If I baby it, it's fine.
If I can get the same performance out of a stage 2 and get longer life and no noticeable difference in driveability, that would be awesome.
Sorry for the noob question. I've always had automatics, and built quite a few 500+hp chevy small blocks and auto trans that could handle the power. This is my first venture with a stick car of my own. I had a 1g talon es that was stick, but it was the ex's and she rearended someone at a stop light. I drove it maybe 10 times total before she smashed it up.
thanks guys,
I might go with stage 1 and lightweight flywheel.
but I was told that the lifetime of stage's clutch is half of the lifetime of o&m clutch.
Is it true?
I use the car everyday.
I got a quote for the o&m for C$850, + taxes
and for stage 1 for C$700, taxes in
labor is another rip off, cheapest is C$800,
Everything you hear about clutch longevity is all speculation. You can seriously make a clutch last FOREVER if you drive it right. Proper break in and proper use is key to making them last.
If you ever plan on doing any modification you need a clutch that has a higher holding power than a stage 1/stock clutch. The stock clutch is only rated directly at the horsepower/torque specs of the stock engine. When you start modding you're adding power and don't have the holding power needed to transfer the power to your transmission/wheels.
I have the Spec Stage 2+ which has the holding power of a stage 3 but the engagement characteristics of a stage 2 which is really close to stock engagement.
I've yet to launch hard on it, but I'm getting a really proper break in period on it and gonna try to take it really easy on it. Wanna make it last as long as possible, cause I don't wanna do that clutch job again.
I just had my clutch replaced at 106000km and only because I was in an accident and they determined the accident caused my clutch to wreck...because it was serviced at Mitsu at 100000 and they said my clutch was still fine... So I'd still be on my 1st if I didn't get in accident..but glad I did as I'm only on hook for 30% of the clutch so 600 and the new clutch plus the install is 2100 bucks cnd
Newly installed spec 2+ clutch with oem Lucas flywheel
Sup everyone.
I just had a spec 2+ clutch installed to a new oem replacement flywheel. Still in the break in period so I haven't put my foot down yet, however I notice wether I a) come off the clutch fast or b) quickly take my foot off the gas in 1st or 2nd gear, I get a knock from the tranny area it seems sometimes a double knock (is the sound the flywheel springs?). Is this normal and will it go away, or is this the noise everyone talks about by switching out original flywheel???
In all seriousness though, is it ok to have a sprung clutch disc mated to the OEM dual mass flywheel that is also sprung? I ask because I am having clutch problems...again..with clutchmasters parts. It seems like the step height is to small or the pressure plate keeps killing the throw out bearing. Either way my 2nd Clutchmasters kit is dragging again after the break in period. I am debating going back to stock flywheel and clutch because THEY WORK, but I'm pretty sure I'll burn through it pretty fast as I have full bolt ons and reflash. So is it ok to run a sprung clutch disc on a sprung flywheel? it seems like a few people have done it and it works ok. I'm just curious how the double spring would work out. I need a setup that works and is a small step up from OEM. FYI, the kits that aren't working for me are both the FX350 and the recomended by Clutchmasters FX400 that was just installed as a replacement. I asked and all the pressure plates are the same from the FX100-500. Thoughts?
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