The coolant system is burped, heater core mostly bled, hatch is held down, bumper is mounted, lower valence cut away, brakes are bled (minus one caliper with the broken bleeder), material for the firewall is ordered
I bought two GT and a spare engine for $3400 up front. About $1000 fuel system, $500 wiring, $1200 in steel, $200 in welding supplies, $150 in blades/grinder disks/consumable fluids, $50 brake hoses (courtesy of a member here), $30 roll of NICOP brake line, $180ish car fluids, $500 in engine maintenance, $800 in brake rotors/pads/bushings/tie rods/end links.
Costs recovered: $150 fuel tank (bare)
$100 rear subframe (complete with sensors, etc)
$100 tail lights
$200 A pillar covers
$50 interior trim pieces
I've still got another rear subframe, ecu, wiring harness (complete car), steering column with ignition switch, second gas tank (complete), fuel basket, and some other goodies.
Still need to buy some polycarbonate, expanding fireproof foam, seam sealer, and a brake caliper.
So about $6400 in. I feel like I've sold more stuff than that though. Parts still needed will add another $200. Let's say $6600 total out of pocket losses.
I just realized I didn't post a picture. I'll toss one in here of the firewall.
But I got a second wind. The exhaust is done, seatbelt anchors for the driver's side are done, and I made a tow loop from some 1/2" round steel. It hangs below the crash beam in the rear, but isn't as exposed. So there wont be any broken shins, and it should be more accessible
And properly insured for the road today! I talked to the company about what would be allowed as well, so the build does have to be shaped within their rules.
It seems that in the future if I do end up going turbo, up to 700hp using factory Mitsubishi turbos is ok. That's more than I'd want to go, and awesome to know it's an option. A pair of 16g would spool quickly, and certainly give the flow. A pair of 14B I'd worry about the rods.
The build has changed a bit into "what could Mitsubishi have done".
Test drove it last night a little harder. It feels great, but when the back wheels lock up under maximum braking, there's too much flex in the strut bushing upon release and the spring can hit the mount. Not a big deal from a functional standpoint, but it does make a noise.
It'll be resolved when I go to aftermarket suspension bits anyway. Overall, things are holding up well. I'm going to add a bit more bracing to the strut towers though, just a gusset plate at the bottom of each to feel better. 4" extra weld and resistance to twisting force should lock the rear in even more solidly, and it's already way ahead of stock. Gonna be ~1lb/side added, but no big deal.
A forum community dedicated to 4th Generation Mitsubishi Eclipse owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about technical discussions, part awareness, performance, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!