Thats the Idea but on percent my car did not run properly. So I'm hoping the pass through map will work better.
heres another check... set to voltage mode and put in that passthru map, turn the key to the ON position but dont start the car and look at where the MAF voltage goes to. it should be right around 1.5-1.6 volts with the car off but the key on and similar at idle... if its off from this you have a problem somewhereThats the Idea but on percent my car did not run properly. So I'm hoping the pass through map will work better.
do u kno if u can possibly increase idle rpm's by messing with the MAF voltage ?? i tried just about everything to get my idle up 100 - 150 rpm's higher but nothing has really workedi just do it that way because its easier for me to see what the MAF is doing when im logging the car... you can see the little green box move around as you change revs and load. and you can tweak the MAF setting at idle to get a smoother idle in some cases
give it a try it may work... personally mine is stuck at like 400-500 and sometimes stalls if its in a bad mood... these cars just idle low its annoyingdo u kno if u can possibly increase idle rpm's by messing with the MAF voltage ?? i tried just about everything to get my idle up 100 - 150 rpm's higher but nothing has really worked
The pass through should be the same for both. The voltage range is the same. But the output will probably be different. I dont know if there the same sensors or not.so that pass through map is the same for the GS and GT ?? do we have the same MAF sensors and do they send the same voltage numbers throughout the load variable
You hooked up the MAP sensor to analog A correct? What did you use for settings in the setup page for analog A? ANd what did you put in the Analog A map?Ok so I couldnt wait untill thursday. Before leaving to my buddy's house. I re intercepted the MAP and MAF and inputed the pass through map and setup changes.
The car ran better and only stalled on me once in the 20km round trip. But still not running right, hesitating, and throwing bank 1 and 2 too rich codes and a MAP code. so I know the MAP and MAF are still not right.
I'm at the point now I will probably just disconnect and want untill spring when all my other mods are done so the tuner can do it. The tuner I'm going to has experiece with the 4G. With the same setup as mine he made 299.98 to the wheels intercepting the map and maf.
That is what I am telling you all 0's for the MAF is wrong= no workyI wish it was that simple. It should be a pass thru map. It's all 0's but its in percent mode. Ive watched the MAF in volt and MAF out voltage. They are the same. And on my OBD II reader I can watch the air flow and it seem's ok and the same as it was before the FIC. More throttle and I get more air on my reader. And Ive yet to get a MAF code.
Thankyou for your help though. any other idea's?
I'm at the point now where I just might disconnect the harness one by one and see If I can get it running right.
No it runs wrongi never did anything on the MAF map (mine is set on percent) . . . the car runs perfect. is there really a reason for setting it to voltage and using the pass through map ??
If you drive a honda which uses a MAS that would be great, however your car uses a MAF which operates with a 1-5 volt sensor. So if you want to be able to do anything with the FI/C than you need to change it^ yes for timing. i was just saying the pass through is not necessary for the FIC to operate properly. like mrgibs said u could have the MAF set to percent and there will b no need for a pass thru.
500-700 is normalgive it a try it may work... personally mine is stuck at like 400-500 and sometimes stalls if its in a bad mood... these cars just idle low its annoying
yesso that pass through map is the same for the GS and GT ?? do we have the same MAF sensors and do they send the same voltage numbers throughout the load variable