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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I recently added RRE headers and Outlaw spacers at the same time. Now I seem to have all kinds of issues. I also replaced all 4 O2 sensors and spark plugs.

1. I was unable to fully screw in the EGR pipe to the back header. I have about three more threads to go.
2. Sounds like some kind of exhaust leak
3. Sometimes it idles rough, bobbing back and forth between 4 and 6 hundred RPM. (vacuum leak?)
4. SES light always on and the two other lights come on after 25 miles or so after the car has sat all night. The two lights go off after turning the car back off. They come back on quicker if I just got done driving
5. Getting a popping sound when I coast. It goes away when I hit the gas or brake.
6. Starting to sound like a Civic!

I was told that it probably needs to be re-tuned. Does anyone know where I can get that done in the Virginia Beach area? Also, can they tune it without the car having a aftermarket engine management system? Anyone of you all in the area that might be able to help me? I am getting kind of desperate, I am well over a grand spent on this one project.:jawdrop: Thank you!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Where is the egr terminals at? The MAF is plugged in. I know I have another plug around the MAF that is not plugged into anything. I just thought that was to the old air box. the codes I am getting is two P0174 and P0153. I was assuming those are coming from the 02 spacers.
 

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Did u do the long ecu rest. And u can get a tune reflash from uvtune.com. From hackish as he is called on the forums.

Can I have 1 of ur old o2 sensors if it still works. My bank 2 sensor 1 is fried
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
I plugged the battery back in and turned the key on for about 20 sec. Then let it idle for about 20 minutes. Is there anything else I should do for the long ECU reset?

Edit: I threw all the 02's away. They were a complete bitch to get out.
 

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I plugged the battery back in and turned the key on for about 20 sec. Then let it idle for about 20 minutes. Is there anything else I should do for the long ECU reset?

Edit: I threw all the 02's away. They were a complete bitch to get out.
I don't remember all the steps. I have to look it up each time I do it lol. Ok cool np. I need a new one but damn there like 100$ for one.

When u hooked up the new o2. Did u make sure not to mix up the 2 black wires on each one?

One way to check for leaks is spray a little bit of wd40 around the intake puleum. And if ur rpm jump then u have a leaks there. I torqued the shit out of those bolts on my spacers to seal em good.
 

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My Rx7 made me a mechanic
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So I recently added RRE headers and Outlaw spacers at the same time. Now I seem to have all kinds of issues. I also replaced all 4 O2 sensors and spark plugs.

1. I was unable to fully screw in the EGR pipe to the back header. I have about three more threads to go.
2. Sounds like some kind of exhaust leak
3. Sometimes it idles rough, bobbing back and forth between 4 and 6 hundred RPM. (vacuum leak?)
from what im seeing here your egr pipe to the back header is not correctly positioned therefore its going to be leaking air into the intake manifold. and your most likely going to hear an exhuast leak. because what the egr does is burn recirculated gases taking a bit of exhuast from the header and re burning it.

my conclusion is you need to get that egr pipe hooked up correctly. did you do the intake spacer aswell aswell the throttle body spacer when you did it? if so try loosening off the bolts on the intake. re set the egr first and get it bolted down. then continue to bolt up the intake manifold and do the long ecu reset. ill post that up in a minute.
 

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My Rx7 made me a mechanic
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Resetting/Relearning process for the ECU/PCM & Throttle Position Sensor after maintenance. Before starting any maintenance:

Turn all accessories off; Headlights, AC/Heater, Radio, etc. Make sure windows are rolled up and doors are closed before disconnecting the battery.

Disconnect the Negative battery terminal, then the Positive battery terminal. You can dissipate any stray voltage by applying the brakes, or by touching the Negative and Positive leads together after they have been removed/disconnected from the battery. If the battery is disconnected for a long period of time this should not be necessary.

Do your required maintenance, and after the maintenance is completed, do the following to reset/relearn the ECU/PCM and reset the Throttle Position Sensor to its neutral position.

Reconnect your battery terminals. First install the Positive lead, then your Negative lead.

Turn your ignition key to the “ON” position but do not start your car. You will hear some clicking under the hood, this is your Throttle Position Sensors relearning its neutral position. You may also have some flashing dash lights. Wait about two-minutes, then turn the ignition key to the “OFF” position for ten-seconds.

Turn your ignition key to start the engine; let the engine idle for at least ten-minutes. Your engine might idle rough at first, but it will smooth out as the ECM/PCM learns its new parameters. Turn the engine “OFF” for ten-seconds.

Restart the engine and take the car for a test drive for about 20 minutes. Normal driving, no hard accelerations or stops, do not WOT the engine (Wide Open Throttle). After your driving cycle, turn your engine “OFF”. Note: during this first drive cycle, take it easy on the engine for at least the first 30 miles.

From this point your engine should have learned its new parameters and should be ready for your everyday type of driving. If you get a SES Light or any other Lights, have someone check your OBDII for any set or pending codes, post those codes for further trouble-shooting.
 

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make sure the o2 sensors with the black terminals at the ends DO NOT have the defoulers plugged into them. The o2 sensors with the grey plug get the defoulers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
make sure the o2 sensors with the black terminals at the ends DO NOT have the defoulers plugged into them. The o2 sensors with the grey plug get the defoulers.
I am assuming the defoulers are the 02 spacers? I get that the grey plugs need them, but does it matter where they go. I know one for each header, but do they go on the top or bottom?

And thank you everyone for helping. Means a lot
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
from what im seeing here your egr pipe to the back header is not correctly positioned therefore its going to be leaking air into the intake manifold. and your most likely going to hear an exhuast leak. because what the egr does is burn recirculated gases taking a bit of exhuast from the header and re burning it.

my conclusion is you need to get that egr pipe hooked up correctly. did you do the intake spacer aswell aswell the throttle body spacer when you did it? if so try loosening off the bolts on the intake. re set the egr first and get it bolted down. then continue to bolt up the intake manifold and do the long ecu reset. ill post that up in a minute.
I will have to try that again. I lost use of a shop. getting a wrench on the bottom of the egr pipe is a bitch. Thank for the advice!
 

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i didn't realize till I just received my RRE headers today that they changed their design. Will follow up on how I install the o2 sensors.
 
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