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Here is my issue..to save time im just gonna copy and paste a message i sent to another member so keep that in mind when reading this.
My clutch wont disengage...what flywheel did you get...and did it come with or did you press in a pilot bearing? I bought the findaza fly wheel with spec stage 2+ before the swap and had some one else do the work. When i did my swap..there was no pilot bearing or pilot bushing in the flywheel...keep in mind it was installed like that with the stage 2 clutch...and worked perfectly the whole time. I bought a new spec stage 3+ clutch kit (clutch disc, pp, tob) and a new friction surface for the flywheel. There is a thread on club4g with the guy with the super clean red eclipse about doing the clutch job...you pisted on the thread. In that post he talks about pressing the old pilot bearing out of his stock flywheel and pushing it into his aftermarket flywheel. My clutch wont disengage and im not really sure why. When installed the slave cylinder. I pressed the bleeder valve stick through the trans, and clipped it down. I did not pull the stick back out to seat it to the inside of the trans ( missed that step), but when i bled the clutch. I just pumped it one time in between bleeds like it says. And on the wnd or 3rd pump the bleeder valve stick popped out...and not all the way out. But more like it popped it out to where it seats to the inside of the trans.i made sure to spin the flywheel after installing the pressure plate to make sure it wasnt riding on the lip of the flywheel and i could see just the slightest bit of space betweencthe disc and FW lip...so it seemed centered. I also didnt have the specs for the pp bolts. So i carfeully star patterned it on...but know now i probably torqued it to around 35 or 40 lbs...when it only needed 13lbs as per tearstone manual. The clutch pedal did gain and holds pressure but doesnt seem to be actauting the pressure plate.
 

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^^^That post is a bit hard to follow as to who is doing what. Are you the one who tried installing the clutch and had problems or the other guy?

Either way whoever did it goofed up. Being me, I am going to say redo it from the beginning. That means getting new bolts for the pressure plate and such, if you over torque them (a lot in this case) they can be weakened. When you drive hard the bolts might fail and then your clutch housing grenades at however fast you spinning it. That means good bye transmission and possibly good bye engine block as the flywheel and pressure plate might smack it and crack/punch a whole in it.

Take it back apart and DO IT RIGHT. Follow ALL the steps to the letter. DON'T SKIP or GUESS on anything. If you don't know, STOP AND FIND OUT. Once you have done that, then make sure everything lines up correctly and the throw out bearing line is attached and secured properly.

Once everything is done and torqued CORRECTLY, you bleed the clutch. You will have to adjust the clutch pedal with the aftermarket kits. I had to back my clutch pedal out A LOT to get it to fully disengage the friction disk. I needed more pedal travel to disengage the stronger pressure plate and Friction surface. To do that, there is a jam nut and a spindle behind the clutch pedal. If you need the pedal to push the friction disk away from the flywheel (more disengagement) then you move the pedal out towards the driver. If you need the friction disk to be closer (more engagement) you move the pedal inward toward the firewall. You want the car on jack stands with the front in the air. You want to be able to press the clutch pedal and put the car in gear, the drive wheels should not start moving. If they are then your friction disk is dragging on the flywheel and you need to disengage more. You want it set just outside of the dragging point so when you push the clutch you aren't dragging and when you release the clutch it has maximum clamping power.

Hope that helps.
 
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