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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I want to buy a JL 10W7 Subwoofer for my car. I dont know the first thing about making an audio system work. I know that i need an amplifier for this subwoofer but i dont know what kind i will need. So i have a few questions:

What kind of an amp would i need to run this one JL sub?

Is it possible to run this Sub + Amp combo from the OEM car stereo receiver? I have the non-rockford fosgate system. Or do i need to buy an aftermarke receiver?

Will the car have enough power to handle this setup or do i need some extra charger/battery or whatever to get more juice?

And last, how do i connect all this? I just want to learn how to do this my self. But if i have to i will go to a Car Audio Shop and get it installed that way.

Any help/suggestions are appreciated.
 

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I would get a good car audio place do it but talk with the installer and see how open he is to helping you understand his suggestions. Tell them what type sound your trying to achieve along wit the look and where your budget is. When they finish the work ask them to explain how they wired everything.
If he just wants you to drop the car off and let him do the rest walk away.

When they finish you can study their work and read up on why and how everything was done they way they did it.

I worked in electronics and audio for over 20yrs. I have the ability to do anything with my car audio but I still chose to let my local car audio place do my work. They have the tools and materials on hand to tackle any job and can improvise if need be. I trust them and have had long discussions with the owner about audio.
They save me time and do good work so I send them cusomers. In turn they give me a generous discount.

Better to have it done right first and learn from it than to try it yourself, get frustrated, screw it up, and end up having to have someone fix your mess.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
About the box? Well, i was thinking of molding a box to the side of the trunk. I dont know how to work with fiberglass, but im good with sheetmetal so i was thinking of doing it that way. Another way, i would do it out of wood. Id just make a wooden design that will fit the side of the trunk and then just attach black carpet on top of the box to blend it in. I magine i would put the amp under the seats or to the back of the back seats.

Is that a good way of doing it? or it needs to be just fiberglass?

If i have to go with fiberglass, how much would a shop charge me to do a simple small box to fit the sub?

And to Leeclipse, your probably right, ill just have to find a place that will do it for me.
 

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If you had some hooptee I'd say practice away but in a nice car it's better to watch it done right the first time and then learn for the next.
 

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Uhm... dude, if you don't have the knowledge to do so, like Leeclipse said, you don't wanna risk it with your car. Working with FG ALWAYS looks easy to people who've never done it. Sure, it becomes easy after you've fucked several things up and learned it costs more to get it fixed right (again, Leeclipse) - but it's always best to play it safe.

Not to sound like I'm bashing and all, but I'm guessing you got the W7 either because you read the reviews and want the best bang for the buck performance sub, or because you wanna impress? Don't get me wrong - but a power-hungry, hard hitting, space-hogging sub like a W7 requires more than just an amp - and most likely a cap and power + signal wiring. You're going to also need better components to balance out all that bass.

... Then you'd have realized that you should have invested in a HU, midrange and highs, and a good component amp first. Then let the bass complement what you've already set up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Not to sound like I'm bashing and all, but I'm guessing you got the W7 either because you read the reviews and want the best bang for the buck performance sub, or because you wanna impress? Don't get me wrong - but a power-hungry, hard hitting, space-hogging sub like a W7 requires more than just an amp - and most likely a cap and power + signal wiring. You're going to also need better components to balance out all that bass.
Heh yeah, i heard it was the best, so thats why i want it. Cuz i dont want to buy something thats sub par and then have to get something better later on. Its not for show or anything like that. Its for me only, i listen to Hardcore Techno and Hardstyle so my music taste needs hard thumping bass.

And yes, im gona do this at an audio shop, ill get it done the right way. If you say W7 is to much, what other subwoofer would fit my needs?

And again, would it be ok if i made a sub box from aluminum? or a wooden stand and carpet on top of it? I know how to work with metal cuz its a part of my job. So thats why i would use that material instead of fiberglass.
 

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If you build a system thats balanced around that W7 you will spend about $1,000 on the low side and $3,000 on the upper end. Thats just for the amps, caps, cables, and speakers.

The fact that you have the non RF system is better. Thats what I have and I went with a 10" sub with sealed enclosure, replaced all my speakers and ran new speaker wires, installed 2 amps (one for sub 400w rms, other for speakers 320w rms). I replaced my factory radio with an Alpine 9885 and had a seperate sub level adjustment knob installed on my center console below the AC controls. I also have a Sirius Sportster hardwired to my radio.

Crossfire Performance P1014 $175
Crossfire Amp 3204 $250
Profile AP1000 amp $150
Alpine S speakers X4 $$250
Sub enclosure $50
Stinger 1fd Cap $40
JL cables and fuse links $250
Alpine 9885 $300
New face plate $25
Sirius Sportser $120
Intallation $100
Dynamat doors/rear $150
Build new solid rear hatch floor with carpet cover $75

My total was $1935 and thats because I got inexpensive amps. If I went with a better sub amp I'd be closer to $2500.

I listen to "techno" myself, a little Tiesto and a lot of pre-mixed stuff so for that music taste I'd recomend a sealed enclosure. Your base will be tighter and respond quicker because the sealed air pressure acts like a shock absorber for the sub. It help it respond quicker by damping the movement. A ported or bandpass will be louder but more boomy and less accurate.
 

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Yeah, what Leeclipse said. :)

By the way, I just have to say that what I suggest is just an opinion - don't take it for "you should do this". If you really want the sub before you get the highs, go ahead with it, but just remember that you're going to need an amplifier and power wire to to set it up, and if you're simply planning around the sub, IMO it's like buying a car to fit a garage... or getting a car to fit the girl. If that makes any sense. :lol: You'll have figured out that you might have to spend double redoing what you originally did when the sub was the only thing you had in the back of your car.

No matter what people say, the HEART of a system should be the head unit. It determines the quality of the audio that it drives, and the nature of the system itself. It's like buying a TV first, and then getting the speakers and the video peripherals to work with it.

Next should be the speakers (some of which you can drive with just aftermarket HU speaker wire out voltages, and don't necessarily need an amp immediately). Then when you get the sub, go get the component mono amps as well. Then you'll have built the system from the inside out, not the other way around ;)

Again, just my opinion. :)
 
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