[contid]

I'm reading the new member threads and saw the first post requirements.

I'm David, I have a 2007 Eclipse GS spyder with 83k miles. I'm in the Atlanta GA metro area.

The car was my dad's, then my brother's, now mine. It's been outside it's whole life and has an interesting smell in the interior that I'd welcome any suggestions on curing. I'm pretty sure the input shaft bearing is starting to go and so I'll be combing the threads for information about that.

 

[Sabertooth^2]

Welcome to the club.

So it makes a pretty nasty rattle when the clutch pedal is untouched, and stays when the clutch pedal has mild pressure (but not pressed in, so the clutch stays engaged)?

Interior smell, likely wet nasty carpet mess because convertible. But who knows what was spilled or lost. Check under the seats, mats, in the trunk, etc. And baking soda helps a lot on carpet.

 

[SolarYellow]

😃

 

[contid]

Welcome to the club.

So it makes a pretty nasty rattle when the clutch pedal is untouched, and stays when the clutch pedal has mild pressure (but not pressed in, so the clutch stays engaged)?

Yes, when you start the car ya have to press the clutch, obviously. When you release the clutch it gets noisy. I’ll try to get a recording and link it here.

I need to check the diff oil too, because there is a rolling noise aspect as well. As far as I know it’s never been changed.

 

[Sabertooth^2]

How about in my testing situation there, in neutral, with the car already running.

 

[contid]

Hopefully the site allows links.

The stick is in neutral. E brake on. I’m just pressing the clutch in and out.

Thanks for any pointers!

 

[contid]

How about in my testing situation there, in neutral, with the car already running.

Sorry I reread your first post and saw I missed your whole point.
Some pressure on the pedal but not enough to disengage the clutch. To determine when/where the ...noise/rattle/whatever starts? When the pedal is pressed it starts to put a load on the TOB... is your thought process, right?

I've had a 85 nissan 200 SX, 96 GSX, and a 02 Wrangler and never replaced a clutch myself. I have a working knowledge of how they work but no hands on experience. So, thank you for taking the time to reply!

I'll check before the end of the day.

 

[Sabertooth^2]

Load on the throwout, and input bearing are my thoughts

 

[contid]

Load on the throwout, and input bearing are my thoughts

Ok, hopefully I can explain this coherently.

The noise is there with the engine running, clutch pedal out, stick not in a gear.

When you apply pressure on the clutch the noise is still there all the way through the firmest part of the clutch travel THEN the noise spins off and away. The rhythm is consistent with rpm’s and once the clutch breaks connection the rhythm and noise slows and fades away within a second or so. Does that make sense?

Again, thank you for your time and advise!

 

[Sabertooth^2]

That makes sense as a trans input shaft bearing failure

 

[Smokeynbandit]

Sabre knows his stuff hes been on here for one the longest if not the longest and always helped me when i had one these cars too if anyone can lead you in the right direction id put my money on him 😆

 

[contid]

Thank you!

Last question in this thread, I see older threads saying the input bearing is no longer available through Mitsubishi. I have not pinged my local dealership to check the current situation.

Is NSK the aftermarket brand to go with (if dealership can’t get them)? Is that the OEM manufacturer? It seems to be the ONLY online result.

I’m so used to buying Timken for my Fords I just want to make sure.

As always, thank you for your time!

 

[Sabertooth^2]

Timken moved most of their operation out of North America around a decade ago, maybe longer. Very little of what they made could be considered "mid grade" or "premium" since, so don't worry too much if they were good enough for your needs.

NSK is worldwide, so hard to say what you're getting. But if it's available, give it a shot, and run a good oil.