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Sorry to revive an old thread but I just ran into the same issue. My only problem though is that on top of the hvac not working, my power locks, trunk release, and 12v sockets also died at the same time. I checked fuses and they all seem to be ok. Also the alarm still works but it will only arm if the doors are physically locked first. Nothing works still with the resistor unplugged or the new one in. Also when it died completely, the a/c no longer turns green on 1. Originally it was a/c green on 1, only blowing on 3 and 4.
 

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Well did nothing tuesday night as I gave up on it on after changing the blower resistor to no effect. Then it just happens to work yesterday morning perfectly fine, heat and a/c on all speeds, locks, 12v outlets so i just put the glove box back together and it worked all day. Then this morning, all worked fine, I'm 10 min into a 1 hour drive to a service call and the heat just shuts off, phone stops charging and there is nothing on the power locks again. No fuses were blown again. Wtf is wrong with this thing. I did however pull my center console apart while I was pissed off and found an awful wiring job for the deck that was in it replacing the rockford stereo. Now it has an axxess box in it but only like 4 wires go to the stereo and the rest go to the oem harness. all the wires from the deck harness also go to the car harness. and the oddest of all, the 2 phone mute wires from the axxess box seem to go to the obd port. Was the deck installer on crack or is that the way its supposed to be wired. if it helps only the 2 speakers in the back and 1 tweeter on the front passenger side actually output any sound. nothing from the woofer besides the startup double click and nothing from the other front tweeter and the front doors. could a really shitty stereo job actually cause all this bullshit? Oh yeah, and the comm error still shows often.
 

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Fixed. 80 amp under the hood was internally rusted out. took it off to check underneath and the tabs broke right off the fuse. Now to get the stupid radio working right.
 

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This may fix my problem too, I will have to try it. But.. my fan makes a pretty annoying clicking sound.. I hope its just a leaf or something caught somewhere!!
 

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I have a 2007 Eclipse GS, the fan works on 1-4 and the light stays green the whole time, just no cold air whatsoever. (My heat works awesomely during the winter btw) Just took it into then shop before seeing this thread and they told me everything is in working condition, the motor, fan, freon is filled, etc. they said it must be an electrical or computer problem. Is this something that a new resistor would fix?
 

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07 gs blower problem

hasd the same problem with my 07' GS. Took car to shop, and had resistor
replaced. 3 hrs later mechanic said this did not fix the problem?.
Is it possible the new resistor replaced was faulty. My problem is,
a/c is on 1,2,3 with no air. and on 4, a/c kicks off, and hot air blows.
Not sure what other problem this could be
 

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I hate to ask, but can you give a better description...

Sounds like you are saying the AC compressor is working, but you fan is not working. Is the green AC light on, or is it flashing on your control knob. If I can get a better description it will help.
 

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blower resistor

The control knob is green on settings 1-3, with no fan. I can hear the compressor turn on. On setting 4, fan works, but green light turn blue
and warm air blows out. Was wondering if after market part was faulty,
so a Mitsubishi part was ordered, not installed yet. The mechanic at the garage
apparently contacted Mitsubishi, and I was advised that maybe the ECU was faulty, and that was a 400.00 part, any help would be appreciated
 

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From what you are describing it does sound like the resistor under the glove box.

There are several ECU's on our vehicle, but I know the main ECU under the hood is not the cause. If the resistor is not the problem, it would most likely be the Dash Control Unit behind the the AC Panel.
 

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blower resistor

Update, Installed new Mitsubishi resistor, and fan now works on all settings,
and a/c works on all settings. Appears there are some after market resistors
that will not work in this model.
 

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Update, Installed new Mitsubishi resistor, and fan now works on all settings,
and a/c works on all settings. Appears there are some after market resistors
that will not work in this model.
That's great news!!
 

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old post but REALLY useful

This old post just shows the huge value of this forum! My daughters 07 eclipse heater/ac fan did not work on the 2 lowest settings but did work on top 2 settings 3 & 4. Also, ac only worked on fan setting 1, and no others. I googled these symptoms and found this thread from the original poster who had the exact same symptoms. I got a replacement fan resistor from mitsu for $26.00, changed it out and we're back in business! Only thing different was my glove box did not have a support string, but instead had to push the sides of the box inward, inorder for box to flop down. As stated by others, the driver side attachment screw on the resistor is an absolute bitch to remove - only way was to use a philips nut driver on a 1/4"socket, and use a small 1/4" ratchet. It still took me 1/2 hour it is so hard to access. Otherwise instructions and pictures were bang on. Much thanks to orig. Poster if he is still around!
 

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This old post just shows the huge value of this forum! My daughters 07 eclipse heater/ac fan did not work on the 2 lowest settings but did work on top 2 settings 3 & 4. Also, ac only worked on fan setting 1, and no others. I googled these symptoms and found this thread from the original poster who had the exact same symptoms. I got a replacement fan resistor from mitsu for $26.00, changed it out and we're back in business! Only thing different was my glove box did not have a support string, but instead had to push the sides of the box inward, inorder for box to flop down. As stated by others, the driver side attachment screw on the resistor is an absolute bitch to remove - only way was to use a philips nut driver on a 1/4"socket, and use a small 1/4" ratchet. It still took me 1/2 hour it is so hard to access. Otherwise instructions and pictures were bang on. Much thanks to orig. Poster if he is still around!
Extremely glad we were able to help, now that you are a member we like to hear back from you now and then. Tons of good information on this site, as well as members!!
 

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Just want to share this in hopes it might save people some time in the future. I have an 08' GS and my AC would only work (green light) on fan setting 1, higher than that and the fan would work but no AC or green light. I've seen this before in another vehicle and figured it was the resistor, got the replacement instructions from this thread.

Everything went smoothly until that damned last screw on the left of the resistor. I probably spent over 2 hours trying to remove it with a small screw driver, scraping my hand up quite badly. I gave up for a day, picked up a small ratchet at the store and tried again - still failed.

What did it for me was removing the other electrical component that's to the left of it and closer to you, part of the fan I think? It has two screws also, the one further from you is also extremely difficult unless you do it this way: Take out the screw closest to you, unplug the connector, and push the component up/away from you - it will turn on the axis of the second screw until it is exposed. Then you can unscrew that one and remove the component, leaving you with a lot more space to get at the resistor. When you put the fan component back, do it the opposite way - put in the second screw first while it's tilted up, etc.

I'm not really a handyman or a mechanic, but I was able to fix this and have cold AC again. It just took me longer than most here. I hope this tip will save someone some time and frustration!
 

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No problem! Did that fix the problem with the ac as well?

Here is a schematic if anyone is interested:


The connection between m1 and m2 on my resistor was broken.
Will install mine tomorrow. Just in time for the hot weather.
I have a similar problem with my compressor shutting off, but after removing the resistor and ohming it out it shows exactly the values you indicate in your schematic. So, I assume that's not my problem.

Thanks for a great and thorough post!
 
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