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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Just got my boost tune from micheal and it is lean between 18 and 24. Been unable to drive my car for a almost a week. So if anybody knows how to use fastwork that could help me would be great. Also if not can I put my smaller injectors and old maf sensor back in and install the normal tune and drive with the turbo installed until my problem get fixed. Thanks

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Just got my boost tune from micheal and it is lean between 18 and 24. Been unable to drive my car for a almost a week. So if anybody knows how to use fastwork that could help me would be great. Also if not can I put my smaller injectors and old maf sensor back in and install the normal tune and drive with the turbo installed until my problem get fixed. Thanks

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At idle? Driving? WOT? When are these AFRs happening
An 18 at idle is fine
14.7 is stoic
U want around 10-11 for WOT
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Bounces from 18 to 24 at idle. I didn't even bother trying to drive the car.

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2009 GS Turbo. 2007 GT
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Absolutely not normal, nor healthy.

The scaling is NOT yet up properly yet. Kyle, I'm calling you out on that one, that's bullshit and dangerous. You have zero experience with boosted tuning in fastworks.

Either adjust your scaling, or data log the idle, send it in, and wait for an adjustment. You absolutely can kill the engine driving it with wrong scaling, and fast. Exhaust valves won't take it, pistons can explode.
 

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Absolutely not normal, nor healthy.

The scaling is NOT yet up properly yet. Kyle, I'm calling you out on that one, that's bullshit and dangerous. You have zero experience with boosted tuning in fastworks.

Either adjust your scaling, or data log the idle, send it in, and wait for an adjustment. You absolutely can kill the engine driving it with wrong scaling, and fast. Exhaust valves won't take it, pistons can explode.
Sorry my bad you’re right
But anyway, running stoic at idle is definitely better for the health of your engine
 

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2009 GS Turbo. 2007 GT
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Yeah, economy too.

A rich idle has benefits at times too though. It can cool things down after a hard run. I keep mine around 12:1 idle because racecor, with a 1050rpm idle (no rattles at that rpm, I only need about 900rpm for my fueling to stay right).

Lowering the fuel injector size would be an alright first step. The 565cc may even need to be scaled as low as 415cc. It's quite low.

Comparing MAF data can also be useful here, as well as MAP and Baro measurements. They should match turned off, thenntour MAP should match your gauges within reason (depends on the gauge accuracy)
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Micheal fixed most of everything if not everything. Just gotta do couple more datalogs before testing turbo.

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
That's good. Patience is key. Be sure to do a lot of part throttle stuff and watch air fuels and knock sum as well before going full throttle. It's a slow process done remotely, but can be done safely still with a little attention on your end added on.
He doesn't want me to kick the turbo in yet. Question though I got my bov, boost guage and wastegate all connected to the flange on the intake is that correct? Shouldn't the boost guage show any kind of movement when driving? I got the precision wastegate vacuum hose connect on the bottom valve and the top valve is not plug directions said to vent to atmosphere. Also when will the turbo kick in at full throttle?

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I'm not sure what intake flange you mean. But the BOV, wastegate, and boost gauge should all have their own dedicated lines off the manifold or they will all function incorrectly

The gauge should show a ton of movement in the -22 to 0 range (vacuum) in low throttle driving. When the turbo begins to make boost, you'll see it cross over 0.

When it'll see it's boost threshold depends on the turbo, and your exhaust design. Based on your manifold, I wouldn't expect super early spool, or spool at low throttle. Log manifolds have the worst flow of any style. Then what bearings are in your turbo, the turbine shape, sizes, housing shape and size, turbine material, etc will all play in to how it spools too.

Eg, part throttle I'll go into boost like nothing. 2400rpm and I'm at 20psi if I bury the throttle at 1000 (don't do this on stock motors). Then it'll hold boost to 7000rpm before my wastegate flap gets blown open (just an overstressed weak 4psi actuator). But that's because it's a titanium wheeled ball bearing turbo on a tubular equal length manifold, and twin scroll. But it's limited to about 500whp once maxed out. Every setup will be different, I went for the fastest spooling combo possible that'll make 500hp
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I'm not sure what intake flange you mean. But the BOV, wastegate, and boost gauge should all have their own dedicated lines off the manifold or they will all function incorrectly

The gauge should show a ton of movement in the -22 to 0 range (vacuum) in low throttle driving. When the turbo begins to make boost, you'll see it cross over 0.

When it'll see it's boost threshold depends on the turbo, and your exhaust design. Based on your manifold, I wouldn't expect super early spool, or spool at low throttle. Log manifolds have the worst flow of any style. Then what bearings are in your turbo, the turbine shape, sizes, housing shape and size, turbine material, etc will all play in to how it spools too.

Eg, part throttle I'll go into boost like nothing. 2400rpm and I'm at 20psi if I bury the throttle at 1000 (don't do this on stock motors). Then it'll hold boost to 7000rpm before my wastegate flap gets blown open (just an overstressed weak 4psi actuator). But that's because it's a titanium wheeled ball bearing turbo on a tubular equal length manifold, and twin scroll. But it's limited to about 500whp once maxed out. Every setup will be different, I went for the fastest spooling combo possible that'll make 500hp
You got a couple snap shot pictures to show where you hooked up your lines to? Good information by the way.

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Mine actually all come off the manifold, but I use a 4G63 intake manifold. It has 1 more port than I needed

When I used a 4G69 manifold, I removed the resonator from it, and bolted a plate to where it sat. I had a 1/4 NPT barb in there, and used it for my boost controller signal.

Certain things have to go away when you go turbo, like the PCV valve connection to the intake manifold. If you leave it connected to the intake manifold when boosted, it won't vent under throttle, causing crankcase pressure issues. So that for example adds a port you can use. Then vent PCV to a can with a breather filter
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Mine actually all come off the manifold, but I use a 4G63 intake manifold. It has 1 more port than I needed

When I used a 4G69 manifold, I removed the resonator from it, and bolted a plate to where it sat. I had a 1/4 NPT barb in there, and used it for my boost controller signal.

Certain things have to go away when you go turbo, like the PCV valve connection to the intake manifold. If you leave it connected to the intake manifold when boosted, it won't vent under throttle, causing crankcase pressure issues. So that for example adds a port you can use. Then vent PCV to a can with a breather filter
Something like this? I noticed on your car you have a blue line going to a brass fitting with a black hose. But doesn't the pcv need intake pressure to operate?


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You're thinking intake vacuum. And the answer is no.

Intake vacuum can help bring crankcase pressures lower than straight to atmosphere. But intake PRESSURE will raise them, and have the opposite effect of what's desired. The pressure in a crankcase comes from air going past the piston rings. You want to get it out of there, and to atmosphere is one choice, to the intake before the turbo is your other.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
You're thinking intake vacuum. And the answer is no.

Intake vacuum can help bring crankcase pressures lower than straight to atmosphere. But intake PRESSURE will raise them, and have the opposite effect of what's desired. The pressure in a crankcase comes from air going past the piston rings. You want to get it out of there, and to atmosphere is one choice, to the intake before the turbo is your other.
Having the pcv valve in the can with a filter made my car run like crap. Did you actually remove the whole pcv valve.

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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
No. Did you give yourself a vacuum leak? The line goes from the head to the can to atmosphere. Then at the manifold the port must be blocked totally.

Then the breather inlet on the other side is fine to replace with a breather filter, but NA won't cause any issues.
My bad I forgot I flashed a new boost tune. My car now is bouncing from too lean to too rich. I get the codes. It weird cause on my way to work it ran great I had no problems. On the way home that's when it started to happen. No power when pushing on the gas. Almost feel like running out of gas. I thought it had something to do with the pcv valve. Micheal is getting really close. He is looking into it.

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Some much craziness in this thread. Just keep data logging and send it to who ever is tuning(I believe I read it was Michael). I read you are running 20psi? Have you done any inter engine work?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Some much craziness in this thread. Just keep data logging and send it to who ever is tuning(I believe I read it was Michael). I read you are running 20psi? Have you done any inter engine work?
I believe sabertooth is the one running the 20psi don't quote me. I am only running 6 psi with stock internal.

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