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Discussion Starter #1
08 2.4 spyder .. timing belt went while parking . So I didnt crank on it much but I did try to turn it over a few times because the computer was throwing the camshaft positioning sensor code , i replaced it immediately.
.. A friend of mine and I replaced the whole system .. water pump , tensioner pulleys , all of it ... So we get the car back together and It starts fine but at low idle it runs rough .
The other day I was parked with the motor running and I put my window up and the vibration got worse .
I have been told everything from : Check the top motor mount ( I dont even know what could be wrong there) to a bad pulley to the timing is a hair off .
All I know is I have 1 payment left on the car and Id hate for it to die at this point ... Any help would be fantastic ...
Thank you in advance !
 

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you could’ve got the oil pump gear or the balance shaft gears out of time, the engine would still run in this case, just with the added vibrations from their counter balances being wrong
 

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Yes i bought the whole kit and we changed everything
How many timing marks did you set?

technically you only need the crank and cam in time to make the engine run, but the oil pump (bottom right) has a balance shaft connected to it inside the engine, and the balance shaft small belt has to be in time too for its balance weights

having these balance shafts out of time is worse that not having them at all, instead of not canceling them out at all, they’re effectively adding double the vibrations since they’re wrong
 

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How many timing marks did you set?

technically you only need the crank and cam in time to make the engine run, but the oil pump (bottom right) has a balance shaft connected to it inside the engine, and the balance shaft small belt has to be in time too for its balance weights

having these balance shafts out of time is worse that not having them at all, instead of not canceling them out at all, they’re effectively adding double the vibrations since they’re wrong
He said all 4 were set , but they may have moved during reassembly. Possibly?
 

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The oil pump also has 3 phases. Make sure the balance shaft on the back of it is heavy side down when timed. It's also very finicky, and when the belt tensions, it'll pull itself out of time by 1 tooth if you don't account for that beforehand

A trick that worked well for me doing it solo a few days ago (probably my 5th or 6th 4G69 timing job) was to put a zip tie on the cam pulley holding the belt to it. Just don't cut or score the belt in any way when you remove the zip tie
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The oil pump also has 3 phases. Make sure the balance shaft on the back of it is heavy side down when timed. It's also very finicky, and when the belt tensions, it'll pull itself out of time by 1 tooth if you don't account for that beforehand

A trick that worked well for me doing it solo a few days ago (probably my 5th or 6th 4G69 timing job) was to put a zip tie on the cam pulley holding the belt to it. Just don't cut or score the belt in any way when you remove the zip tie
Thanks bro !!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
How many timing marks did you set?

technically you only need the crank and cam in time to make the engine run, but the oil pump (bottom right) has a balance shaft connected to it inside the engine, and the balance shaft small belt has to be in time too for its balance weights

having these balance shafts out of time is worse that not having them at all, instead of not canceling them out at all, they’re effectively adding double the vibrations since they’re wrong
Thank you for your words also bro !
 
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