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Discussion Starter #1
Hey,
I picked up a 2009 GT6 last summer and I love it.. I was driving today and noticed that clutch was slipping a bit but figured I could continue the drive and check it later.. Moments later my clutch pedal felt like it stuck down when I pressed it so I stuck my foot under it and it came up, and I pulled off to the side, but unable to shift anymore..
Got out, smelled the stink, noticed the smoke coming from the tranny area, and then sat in my car to think about what to do next..
After a few minutes I figured that if I let it cool off or whatever then perhaps it would figure itself out and I'd be able to change gears again (at first I couldn't even accelerate to a certain RPM to switch gears -- yes, I know that trick ;) Anyway, after it cooled down (I guess?) I got it to slam it into first, and was able to hard-shift into 2/3 so I got off at the next exit, drove it home, hoping that I wouldn't hit any reds, and I made it successfully..
So, now, I'm going to replace the clutch (in a few weeks when the snow is off the ground) in my driveway, but I don't know the technology..
People talk about using the stock flywheel, but also talk about making sure you grind it (like you do with brake rotors?) -- should I or not?
It seems to be suggested to buy a 'kit', so I will, and that includes a clutch and a plate or something and a tool to align things..
Now, all that said, I have been known to drive like a maniac, so perhaps that's why my clutch is gone, but do I really need to put in a 'performance' clutch or not? And if I do go 'performance' vs. 'stock' then will everything fit together easily? I feel like stock will be fine because the racing ones would wear out even faster?
Maybe someone could toss a reply with some thoughts about all this rambling for me...
thx
 

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Basically Stock
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Welcome to the club!


I'll try to check these off in order as best I can...

Pedal not coming up sounds like you may have air in the lines, caused by a leaking clutch cylinder. That can cause your clutch to wear out faster by not disengaging, especially if you clutch in at red lights instead of going to neutral. It could be an internal leak, or it could be external. Check your fluid reservoir (shared with the brakes) and see if it's low. If it is, also check the clutch lines.

Could also be that the throwout bearing is out of place, or clutch fork is fucked. But have someone push on your clutch pedal, and see if the slave cylinder moves. If it doesn't, it's air

I suggest OEM style flywheel, not a lightweight one unless it's a track car. I've not met anybody in person who has put a lightweight flywheel on their street driven car and not regretted it. Your original one probably needs to be replaced if your clutch got hot enough for visible smoke to escape. The LUK one from RockAuto will likely be the cheapest you'll be able to get in Ontario

The kits come with a clutch pressure plate, clutch disk, and alignment tool. Your pressure plate might be fine, but replace it anyway to avoid possible issues before the clutch disk itself is worn.

If you want to keep the car totally stock power, an OEM or stage 1 clutch would be the way to go. Stage 1-2 (varies) kevlar full face will last longer. If you plan to mod, then I'd need to know your plans before I can make a suggestion

Most performance clutches drop right in. It's when you get into fancy stuff (eg, multiple clutch plates) that you may need to start putting in some thought. But ones that are single plate and made for the car drop in like OEM.

Racing ones usually last longer, especially when seeing hard use. It's why they exist. The trade off is that they bite harder and can have a heavier clutch pedal feeling. Generally, just avoid ceramic if the car isn't raced ever. I use a ClutchMasters stage 3.5 clutch, and would suggest it if cost isn't an issue. It would be around $750 after duties and shipping from my parts guy. Similar to Amazon's cost (never in stock, massive waiting list...), but way cheaper than anywhere else I found


Where in Ontario are you?
 

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This happen to me with a "performance clutch" the throw out bearing went through the pressure plate 3000 mile on a brand new stage 3 clutch I also went to a machine shop and had them resurface my flywheel for 75$ don't cheap out its not fun doing the work twice Could cost you more 06 gs
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hey, so back then I did replace my clutch myself. thx for the tips.

A year later when i had the engine out, the clutch plate looked pretty bad again so i had them put in another while everything was apart.

I will be replacing the tranny soon and I expect that I may see another used up clutch plate.

Is it my driving? perhaps.
BUT, I just noticed the other day some clicking when I press the clutch pedal and thought maybe I just need some adjustments?

1. That clicking is annoying, any thoughts as to what that is? It's coming from around the pedal itself but I haven't looked down there while stationary.
2. Why am I shredding clutches so fast?
 

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140whp+15.72%= 162hp
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Im here to take notes. I havent replaced my clutch and wanted a stage two for my GS. Im curious to know why ppl regret a lighter flywheel on a street driven car but not for tracking as that is my combo plan for the replacement. Does it make the clutch harder? Im kind of used to the semi-truck clutch.
 

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Im here to take notes. I havent replaced my clutch and wanted a stage two for my GS. Im curious to know why ppl regret a lighter flywheel on a street driven car but not for tracking as that is my combo plan for the replacement. Does it make the clutch harder? Im kind of used to the semi-truck clutch.
It makes stop and go traffic and hill starts that much more of a nightmare is all because the clutch isn’t as forgiving with a racing type clutch and lighter flywheel

That’s how my WRX is but you do get used to it

Also on the WRX sometimes a lighter flywheel will give ppl false misfire codes
 

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Basically Stock
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Yikes, those poor bearings.

The flywheel works just like the crank pulley as a damper for the crankshaft. Those codes are from flex in the crank allowing it to hammer the bearings hard enough that the vibration is picked up by the knock sensors, which are little microphones.

That's a bad sign, and why I don't agree with lightweight flywheels on anything but a circuit car that you make money off of. Way less inertial load on them, and they don't dampen crankshafts.


I remember RRE testing the 6G75 and running into those issues as well. So they scrapped the project because it was unsafe for the engine. That's why there's no RRE underdrive for the GT
 

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Yikes, those poor bearings.

The flywheel works just like the crank pulley as a damper for the crankshaft. Those codes are from flex in the crank allowing it to hammer the bearings hard enough that the vibration is picked up by the knock sensors, which are little microphones.

That's a bad sign, and why I don't agree with lightweight flywheels on anything but a circuit car that you make money off of. Way less inertial load on them, and they don't dampen crankshafts.


I remember RRE testing the 6G75 and running into those issues as well. So they scrapped the project because it was unsafe for the engine. That's why there's no RRE underdrive for the GT
I also wouldn’t recommend a light flywheel for a street car

However I said misfire codes were reported by ppl using them on WRXs not knock learnings in the ECU

Totally different because you seem to think it causes false knock with the knock sensor microphones which it doesn’t

The ECU actually detects a misfire by the crank and cam position sensors, mostly the crank sensor, and any change in speed will make it determine that a misfire is happening

And a lightened flywheel causes more rough turning of the crank from the light flywheel or more firm racing clutch which makes the ECU detect the crank sensor having delays in rotation which is sees as a misfire when there actually isn’t a misfire

I totally agree with you that this is not good for the crank bearings tho, because that slower jackhammering rotation from a lightened flywheel will cause crank bearing damage!

But not false knock, just false misfire

Crank bearing damage is definitely possible tho

Not trying to argue just wanted to put some input in!
 

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Basically Stock
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I actually just misread. I've only slept 2 of the last 30 hours. Lightweight flywheels and pulleys absolutely have been known to cause crank flex though, and set off knock sensors.

Setting off misfire errors is news to me on that platform though, thanks for sharing. I can only imagine how nasty that would be mixed with some valve float around 8800rpm on steel valves (approximate resonant frequency, depending on alloy)
 
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