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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2009 2.4.
130,000 miles

Background:

changed timing belt/balancer belt. Original tensioner left in it.

After 5000 miles, oil light would flicker during idle. Checked oil level, full, didnt worry about it. 10,000 miles later, oil leaking on ground. Just maintained oil level for 1 year (2,000). Oil leak getting worse; bad burnt oil smell coming into cabin, oil light flicker getting more frequent and staying on for 2,000 rpms. OK, time to figure it out. I went straight to Oil pressure switch for diag because timing of light flicker didnt make sense. Removed connector, bunch of oil pours out of pressure switch connector (failed oil pressure switch). Replaced it with new part, no more oil leak. Light flickers only at idle again. Driving hard one day, 6,000 RPM's, out of the blue; loud nasty rattling sound comes from engine bay. I drive easy. Almost same kind
of rattle when I had the stock A/C compressor fail on me (not the compressor this time). A few months later, same rattling sound heard 3,000 + rpms. No matter what kind of load on engine, when it hits around 3k rpm, it rattles and can easily be heard in cabin. Sounds like shit bearing or extreme valve train ticking. NOT KNOCKING, at least when you look up videos of rod knock, it does not sound close to harshness and low frequency of rod knock. I'm isolating sound from middle of engine to top of engine and sounds like coming from intake manifold area (on head). But is difficult to locate. MAy be middle of engine.

THE NOISE APPEARS OVER 3K RPM AND WHEN THE ENGINE IS WARMED UP. YOU CAN START IT COLD, REV IT TO 4.5K RPM NO NOISE. ENGINE IDLES SMOOTH AND DOESNT MAKE NOISE EITHER COLD OR WARM. Want video? I am Stumped!

I've removed accessory belt, ran engine, noise still exists.

Banged around on exhaust system, cant find loose heat shield, cant confirm if Cats are bad.

No Check Engine Light

Want Video??
 
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