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Discussion Starter #1
Okay so when I accelerate attempting too gain speed quickly I notice delay in power/torque transfer. I can feel the power of the engine but, it takes a good 2-3, 3-4 seconds before I can feel that power/torque transferred too my wheels. It just feels out of sync, or like playing online multiplayer with lag. For example playing a racing game your ping get’s high an as your lagging the car kinda freezes for a second but the sound is still going so you can hear the power of the engine increasing but your cars not moving lol. I know that there are lots of things that could cause this. However, I'm beginning too think that my torque converter is failing. An here's why so it's a 2007 Gt 3.8L Automatic Transmission F5A5A-4, Engine currently has 150,454 miles.

The transmission fluid was pretty dirty when I got it but I’ve seen worse over the years. I didn’t get it flushed but I did drain & add 5.2qts x5 taking the car for a ride after each drain. Pretty costly at just under $10 a quart but, I wanted too get the fluid as new as possible without getting it flushed. All the symptoms listed below were all present before I did the Drain & Fill five times. The First thing I noticed was a constant shudder feeling every time I drove which, was quite annoying an got me to the point of not even wanting too drive the car. Then I noticed odd electrical buzzing sounds( Idk if that's right description but, that's only way I can explain it.) when parked in my driveway going through all the gears (P-R-N-D). If I went through them slowly (1 at a time) I could notice this sound each time the transmission engaged. If I went through them fast (P to D or D to R) the sounds not noticeable. Also when reversing out of my driveway after I shift too drive a few seconds later I can hear a clunk mix with a grind or scrape sound, my brother thinks it sounds like a door lock or something of that nature, but it defiantly is not an it only happens once the car begins to go forward after a cold start. If I stop an put it in park an then drive right after it happens it won’t do it. It doesn’t do it again until after I’ve shut the car off for a few min. An it’s not the cv axles they’re brand new but, when the axle was pulled out of the transmission barely any fluid came out, only about ½" x ½" circle poured onto drain pan. I thought I should note that because I'm not sure how much fluid is supposed to come out. Also after about a month the transmission fluid level goes down a small amount, probably a qtr of a qt if that.

It also always looks freshly wet underneath the car. Greasy/oily substance, outwards near the tires the substance is not too noticeable but in between the engine & the transmission It is always wet in that area. No fluid puddles ever appear in my driveway. Which I’m beginning too suspect that the wetness is the qtr of qt of transmission fluid it keeps loosing an that it’s leaking from the torque converter seal. Cause correct me if I'm wrong but isn't the torque converter located in between the engine & transmission? Anyway the shudder really started annoying me so I bought some instant shudder fix additive for transmission. To my surprise the additive actually worked, I haven’t felt any shudder since using it. However, The delay in power is still very much present. Has anyone experienced anything similar to the symptoms & Information provided. Does anyone think that there’s a good possibility that the torque converter may be failing? Anyone have any thoughts on a possible cause? I do have two error codes when using a scanner, not sure if they would have anything too do with delaying the power but rather decrease overall power/torque, output. They are P0421 & P0431 (Catalyst Efficency below threshold cylinders 1-4 Bank 1) & (Catalyst Efficency below threshold cylinders 2-3 Bank 2). Any input or thoughts on what you think may be going on are greatly appreciated! Thanks.
 

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That clunk sound right after you start it and start moving in drive is normal and should happen, it’s the ABS system doing a self test
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Really?? It doesn't sound good, but normal huh? Thanks for replying to that, i've been trying too figure out what that was for over a month, thanks man really appreciate it.
 

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No problem, as far as your trans goes, it sounds like either low or dirty fluid or it’s just flat wearing out and slipping
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Not low, an I've just recently ran 25 quarts of diaqueen sp3 through it trying to get the fluid as clean as possible. Drain, fill, drive repeated 5x. What exactly does a slip feel like? Other than the delay of torque too the wheels it rides good, is the brief delay of torque transfer what a slip is? An if the transmission is indeed failing would it be worth it to replace it with a used transmission for no more than $1k? Which is definitely gonna suck cause I've already spent a fortune on this car. I probably never should've bought the car with mileage as high as it was but, allow me to explain my situation. I think I'm roughly $7-$7.5k if not more. The total purchase price came up too $4,220 purchased from a local car dealer. I'm gonna list everything I've done since purchasing the car around 5 months. First things I had done include Engine oil & filter changed, had spark plugs replaced with NGK Iridium spark plugs x6, replaced spark plugs grommets as well as valve cover gasket. I replaced the water pump, timing belt, an related components. Replaced serpentine belt & accessory pulleys, the battery terminals had some slight corrosion so I just bought a new battery. bought 4 brand new mid-grade sport tires, Lug Nuts x20 an got an alignment. MAP(Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor), Vapor canister purge valve solenoid, replaced air filter with a high flow K&N filter, changed the transmission fluid did a homestyle flush by draining, filling, driving which I repeated 5 times. I used around 30 quarts of fluid, I think I used 6 quarts per drain leaving just a little bit left in the 6th quart, 5.6 or 5.7 quarts of fluid drains each time. So yeah it was around 30 quarts of Mitsubishi DiaQueen SPIII priced at just under $10 per quart. Replaced the big transmission mount that sits above the trans an below the battery. Also flushed the coolant system when the water pump was replaced, an filled with OEM Coolant which was like $20 something a gallon an used 2 gallons for refill. Okay onto the suspension/wheel area, I'm just about finished by the way. Both front & back brakes replaced with new ceramic brake pads, drilled & slotted high performance rotors. Both rear calipers are new, one of them needed replaced so I just decided to do them both. Final thing I replaced on both sides of the rear was sway bar end links. Okay now back too the front, Oh an the brand for all the suspension parts for both front & back are Mevotech. Replaced the driver side & passenger side for everything in the following list. Cv Axles, Lower control arms, Sway bar end links, both inner & outer tie rods, wheel bearing & hub assembly. Phew, I believe that includes everything, an to be honest this car has been a giant headache ever since i've bought it. An the worse part about it is I've barley gotten the chance too drive it, because of how the transmission is I'm kinda worried too. I think I purchased the car in May so that'd be around 7 months that i've owned the car. Here's how much i've driven it in those 7 months, The mileage on date of purchase 149,638 current mileage 150,684. Total mileage driven in 7 months = 1,046 An that's actually not accurate because my brother has borrowed it a few time for work an he lives roughly 45 miles one way around 90 miles round trip so i'd say we are about equal in miles driven so that would bring the total miles to a whooping 523 miles!
 

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Nice good to hear you’re doing all of this maintenance!
My car has 149,330 miles so very close to yours, GS Auto
I just drained my trans fluid today and cleaned the magnet, added back in 5 quarts because it was slightly overfilled before, and it’s right at the low hot line after driving it so it could use a touch more fluid but pretty close

I used Chrysler ATF+4 fluid (STP and Carquest brands), its full synthetic and since Chrysler’s relationship with Mitsubishi it is ok to use it, cheaper and WAY easier to find than Diamond SPIII, which is only a semi synthetic anyway

you also don’t need to be using OEM Mitsubishi coolant btw but no harm doing so obviously
 

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Slip feels like no/low acceleration until your engine begins to drop off in torque at high RPM, where the bands can finally engage inside the trans. If you accelerate at lower throttle, does it accelerate harder? If so, that's slip

It sounds like it was very poorly maintained, and no amount of drain/fill/flush will help it. You can try a friction additive to try and regain some life, causing damage to other components, or bite the bullet and do the rebuild now
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Not sure exactly sure what you mean by that, but when I accelerate at lower throttle everything is smooth an seems too be normal. When I push the gas pedal pretty close too the floor, for example passing someone, that's when things get funky. It does start too accelerate faster but with what the engine rpms are at just doesn't feel like I'm accelerating as fast as I should be. When I do push the pedal hard can def feel some stuff going on through the gas pedal. I can't quite explain the noise but it does seem to become increasing more noticeable upon harder acceleration. This noise is new it's the first time I've heard it. An the torque/delay is relatively new as well because, It didn't do it when I first got it. I've also noticed little bits of smoke coming up from the front cat the past few times I've driven it. I couldn't figure out where it was coming from but, I just took it for a drive, an when I got back I could see the little bits of smoke coming up still when I looked underneath I could see the little bits of smoke coming from the right side of the engine oil pan, It wasn't coming from the engine though but it was kinda underneath the pipe right where the first flange is that connects too the manifold. I still couldn't find the source cause it's just little bits, kinda looked like it followed the way the exhaust pipe goes. Is a rebuild hard too do? Something I can do in a garage?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Also when I sit In my driveway an go through P-R-N-D noises can be heard can't really explain what they sound like. An it can be felt inside the cabin as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Yeah something is def leaking, because the underneath of the car always looks oily. Further out towards the tires you don't really notice but just slightly too the right of the middle of the car in between the enigne an the transmission is where its really noticeable an it always looks like it's fresh. An no, when the rpms are high it seems like it's not wanting to go. I found this though, I've experieced the 1st, 2nd, 3rd & the last one.
101790
 

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After I drink a cup of coffee I'll go crawl underneath an get a few pictures. Then I'll take it for a drive an try to get a video of what i'm talking about.
 

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My bad It's been raining so I waited until it was decent out to go out. I got some pictures of underneath the car, I'm also currently replacing the transmission mount so I am gonna take a few more pictures an i'll post them when I get finished.
101791
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Discussion Starter #15
This is a picture of behind the engine, just below where the EGR Valve is located. It's more oily/greasy than it should be right?
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Discussion Starter #16
Also had a question on the trans mount. I now have access to the bolts on the trans mount I just wasn't sure if I had too jack the transmission up before breaking the bolts I have circled lose. Do I do the middle first or does it not matter?
101797
 

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If you don't put a jack under the trans it'll drop down uncontrolled until the other mounts stop it. You may have to undo other mounts first as well to remove that one. Depends on the stiffness of them (I have to undo all of mine to remove that mount because of stiffness)

Once supported, I would undo the center bolt, then the studs. It doesn't dangle that way
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I have a jack underneath the trans with a rubber pad a wooden block in-between the jack an the trans, wouldn't raising it slightly relive the tension on that mount. An it's not supposed too look as wet/oily/greasy as it is in the pictures I posted above is it?
 

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Yes, raising it a bit relieves the tension. Raising it too far of course adds new tension.
Optimally, everything should be clean and dry. But I don't know what that car has driven through, what leaks it previously had that have been fixed since it was last cleaned, etc
 
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