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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everyone, I'm a bit new to this forum. First off, I have a 2007 GS with a 4g69. Its got about 98k miles on it, and has a pretty bad exhaust leak from the front pipe. Cracked at the middle of the "Y' and has two holes right next to em as well. Not to mention, signs of leaking gaskets at just about every flange.

I've decided to replace the whole exhaust, as even just trying to replace the gaskets and front pipe, the nuts and bolts coming down from the manifold have a very good chance of not being salvage-able. Most likely going to have to cut it at front pipe to even get it out.

Now I've gotten my parts from a mixture of Rockauto and Ebay. I know quality is probably gonna be sub par as went for the cheaper options. I grabbed the DAVICO manifold/cat, Walker front pipes from Rockauto, and DNA motoring Cat back from Ebay. I've read some stories about DNA motoring and headers, but i'm banking that the cat back wont be as bad.

Now along with a full new exhaust, i'd like to be able to replace all of the hardware too. Mainly looking for:
-Manifold nuts, top and bottom
-Spring bolts for the front pipe flex junction
I'm having issues being able to search for and find a proper walker spring bolt kit that I can confirm will work on these flanges. Also looking for the proper nut size to replace all of the manifold nuts on the studs.

I should be good on Torque specs, but finding specs of the hardware seems to be proving difficult. Would anyone have an idea of these specs? Or an idea of where i can find these specs before i have to just take it apart and go to a hardware store to compare? Or even just any advise about tackling a full exhaust replacement would be welcome. Thanks.

TL;DR. Doing a full exhaust replacement on the 2.4L GS, need specs for exhaust hardware (nuts and bolts)
 

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just take an existing nut to auto zone, they have a fitment setup there. I changed all of mine that way. Just make sure you buy no less than grade 8 hardware for exhaust.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
https://youtu.be/famJKzvjlZg decided to tackle the whole thing before the weekend, luckily my job had the exact nuts for the manifold nuts that I needed, and the studs welded to the bottom flange of the manifold were the exact same size. Believe the nuts were labeled as M10 in the bin.

For the spring bolts, it turned out that the stock ones go through a welded square nut on the back of the flange, and the bolts threads were not reusable. I tried to buy a spring bolt kit from Advance Auto, but the threads were so tiny, I couldnt even use a big enough washer to grab the flange. Just ended up reusing the springs, and grabbing grade 8 bolts and nuts that I could use a proper washer for.

I noticed after I had the car running there was a small condensation puddle right about where that flange would be, so I may have to get it back in the air and make sure that gasket is seated right or the bolts are tight enough.

Overall, I think it sounds pretty good, definitely better that it was, with 3 holes in the front pipe. As for fitment, everything lined up with like 99% accuracy. The only problem I had was the hanger on the muffler stuck out a little too far, and with enough vibration could tap on the body. So I just wrapped a section of the hanger with electrical tape to create a spacer, just enough that it shouldnt tap on metal.

For being pretty entry level on being a mechanic, this project was fairly simple, and I think I lucked out on getting the old exhaust out with little pain. Only had to chop the manifold bolts at the bottom, and cut off a pipe that a previous owner must have spliced in, so I could get it past the subframe
 

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Ha, we just went through the same exact situation at the same time as you! Here’s what we did:
1. Reused the stock manifold. Drilled out the old bolts at the bottom flange. Bought new OEM bolts and OEM flange gasket.
2. Bought the Walker mid pipe from RA. Shit quality, IMO. Welds look like they were done by a blind 8-year old. I had to scuff it down completely and shoot it with VHT Flameproof header paint to make it look decent.
3. Bought the Walker intermediate pipe from RA. Same as #2, scuffed completely and painted. Bought new OEM spring bolts and OEM donut seal.
4. Bought DNA catback. Comes with needed bolts and gaskets, but I used high temp anti-seize on the bolts since they did not appear to be stainless. Fit was surprisingly good! I had to cut 1” off the rearmost hanger so it wouldn’t rub against the frame of the car. Plus it allowed us to center the exhaust a little better.

Sound is not bad! Some decent tone but not obnoxious.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yeah the quality of the walker pipes and welds was definitely about a 3/10. At least the flanges were flat and actual fitment was perfectly fine. The manifold I bought had weld splatters in the o2 sensor threads on the top banks. Added an extra 15 min trying to chip them out and had to slowly turn in the sensors to chip off the rest.

For being an "ebay exhaust" the weld and fitment quality of the DNA catback was much higher than the "OEM" parts.

I am curious though, you said you got OEM spring bolts? Do you have a part number or reference to where you got those? The one I tried to get from Walker, same brand as the pipes, had such tiny threads on it. The nut was small enough to slide through the flange. And the mitsu ones I had on where bolted through a welded square nut, that rusted away
 

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Yeah the quality of the walker pipes and welds was definitely about a 3/10. At least the flanges were flat and actual fitment was perfectly fine. The manifold I bought had weld splatters in the o2 sensor threads on the top banks. Added an extra 15 min trying to chip them out and had to slowly turn in the sensors to chip off the rest.

For being an "ebay exhaust" the weld and fitment quality of the DNA catback was much higher than the "OEM" parts.

I am curious though, you said you got OEM spring bolts? Do you have a part number or reference to where you got those? The one I tried to get from Walker, same brand as the pipes, had such tiny threads on it. The nut was small enough to slide through the flange. And the mitsu ones I had on where bolted through a welded square nut, that rusted away
The OEM spring bolts are part number MR431025. I reused the actual springs since they were fine, and I just picked up some good quality M10 fine thread nuts (I think) from my local hardware store. Put a little high temp anti-seize on the threads since the factory spring bolt is not stainless. ;)
 
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