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Hates carbon fiber
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
GUIDE: Common Problems/Concerns ALMOST DONE

Mods please move to proper forum as required. Will be updated frequently

Concern: Rattle under vehicle.
-Occurs under acceleration or at idle. Especially when morning start up (cold). Sounds like thin metal flapping around, sometimes confused as a grinding noise.
Cause:
-Exhaust heatshields loose on exhaust pipe/manifold(s). Cold weather causes heatshields to shrink, giving more room to rattle around.
-Factory exhaust clamps rot out due to rust and excessive heat, causing shield to become loose.
Correction:
-Clamp loose heatshields with screw clamps or mechanics wire.
-If loose heatshield is on bottom half of pipe (torwards the ground, away from chassis), simply remove.
-Loose heatshields on v6 engines are hard to find since there are so many heatshields. Simply jack vehicle up so you can get under it while its rattling, and use a pry bar to apply pressure to each heatshield until the rattle stops, that will be the heatshield that needs to be removed/clamped.
-On 4cyl models, it is ok to remove all the heatshields except for the manifold heatshields, those you may need to clamp.
-Especially the heatshield on the y-pipe, will come loose and cause rattles.
-2008+ MY 4cyl models only have one heatshield on b-pipe which can simply be removed if heatshield becomes loose.
-Updated/stiffer hanger P/N 1577A049 (will be either blue or brown rather than the original black) available which is recommended after removing heatshields.

*hint- to remove heatshields, simply hammer on 10mm socket (use 9mm) to rusted bolt on clamp, then TIGHTEN. Do not loosen. Tightening the bolt will break it causing clamp to become loose which will allow easier removal of clamp and heatshield. If that technique doesn't work, use an angle/die grinder to simply cut off clamp but becareful of surrounding lines/pipes/etc, and do not cut into exhaust pipe.

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Concern: Air Blower not working, no air coming out of vents. A/c not fully operational.
Cause:
-Blower resistor/transistor shorted. Sometimes excessive resistance at blower motor assy (seized/sticking motor bearing).
Correction:
- Replace blower resistor/transistor. Sometimes if the blower motor bearing is bad, it will cause excessive amperage draw from the blower resistor/transistor, causing the resistor/transistor to short out. So replacement of blower motor assembly may be required.

*hint- if fan speed only works in high, and a/c light only comes on when in one of the speeds (not all), blower resistor/transistor needs replacement.

-Upon inspection, take out blower motor assembly and turn the fan blade by hand. If it makes any noise or is hard to turn, bearing is bad and blower motor assembly needs to be replaced.

*parts-
Auto-climate uses transistor P/N 7802A028 $90
Manual-climate uses resistor P/N MR513289 $25
Blower motor P/N 7801A115 $125 or 7802A026 $190 (Varies on vin)
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Concern: Noise when blower fan is on.
Cause:
-Most likely there is debris/leaves in blower case. When blower fan is turned on, the fan blade throws all that debris around causing noise.
Correction:
-Remove blower motor assembly and clean out debris/leaves. A blw gun attachment on a compressed air line works best. Take caution because one time I found a rat's nests in there, and that was a messy cleanup along with a new blower case. But the noise was also accompanied by a horrid smell.

*hint- install a cabin air filter to prevent debris from dropping down into blower assembly housing. Available as an accessory from your dealer. And park in garages or away from trees, pile of leaves, and yard waste as much as possible.
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Concern: Noise when braking while reversing. Usually heard when backing out of driveway or a parking spot.
Cause:
-Brake dust build up inside drum portion of rear braking system.
Correction:
-Your best bet is to deal with the noise, because how often do you drive in reverse? The cause of this is the dust build up from the shoes of the parking brake system. Because its enclosed, the dust doesn't have any major paths of exit. So it just gets caught inbetween the shoes and rotor. So to get rid of the noise, you would have to tear down the rear brakes by removing caliper assembly and rotor. Then clean out the dust with brake cleaner and let it dry. Then apply grease to the points where. the shoe would touch the backing plates (6 points total). Then reassemble. But most likely the noise will come back after a week or two in the cold. So unless your ok with repeating the clean and adjust procedure all the time, you might as well just live with the noise.

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Concern: Noise when going over bumps
Cause:
-Stabilizer/sway bar end links have play. Can be front or rear.
Correction:
-Replace front or rear sway bar links. Try to stick with oem or aftermarket performance ones. Napa/carquest/autozone etc quality sucks because they are hard to tighten and they get loose again after a couple thousand miles. Mapp gas torch works well for the diy'ers. REPLACE IN PAIRS.
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Concern: Noise when turning, vehicle does not drive straight.
Cause: Inner or outer tie rod ends have play.
Correction: Replace inner or outer tie rod ends. Usually its ok to replace just the outers itself if needed. But when the inner needs to be replaced, I recommend replacing the outer as well since it has to be removed to replace the inner. This is not your typical diy'er job at home. And always get an alignment when altering with suspension.
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Concern: Rear hatch does not hold itself in the up position
Cause:
-Snow on the hatch causing excessive weight
-Aftermarket spoiler on the hatch causing excessive weight
-Hatch struts weak
Correction:
-Clean off snow
-Install updated struts (from 09+ MY)
-Replace struts

Concern: E-com displayed on center display
Cause:
-Fuse blown for amp module
-Cheap audio install causing communication issues
Correction:
-Replace fuse(s)
-If using an aftermarket headunit, use the scoshe/metra kit. It will resolve this issue and also allow you to regain subwoofer control with your head unit.
*Hint- I believe there is one under the dash, and there is another under the hood located in the yellow holder, aka IOD, with the 2 fuses. One of them will be for the audio.

Concern: Wiper washer system inoperational
Cause:
-Broken washer fluid tubes at nozzles. Usually the passenger one breaks first.
-Pump failure. Alot of people will try to use the washers in cold weather when the fluid is frozen, and after it doesn't work once, they will still continue to use it for another 5 minutes until the pump shorts out and blows the fuse as well.
Correction:
-Replace the washer nozzle by pressing on the tabs at the bottom side of the nozzle and pushing outward. When you purchase the nozzle, it will come with the rubber hose. I recommend replacing the y-fitting and both sides at the same time.
-if the pump requires replacement, replace it by removing the passenger splash shield under the bumper, then at the bottom of the washer bottle, you will see two pumps. The one closest to the front of the vehicle is for the rear, and the pump for the front nozzles is the rearward pump. Simply unplug the connector and hose, and pull the pump out, let it drain, lubricate the inlet of the new pump and shove it into the washer bottle. Reconnect all connections.

Concern: Pulsation when braking
Cause:
-Warped rotors
-Seized caliper slide pins
Correction:
-When your rotors are warped, REPLACE THEM. These days, rotors are cheap. Better yet, now is the time to upgrade to slotted rotors. 30% of the time, resurfacing rotors will fix a MINOR pulsation. If the pulsaion is heavy, most likely the rotor will be below minimum thickness after resurfacing, which will cause your pulsation to come back after 60 miles.
-Seized caliper slide pins will cause wear issues and can give you pulsations and vibrations. Simply remove the bolts that hold the caliper to its bracket, get a bore hone (brush that you can attach to your drill) and hone out the holes for the slides. Clean off the slide pins and re-lubricate. Make sure you clean the surfaces where the brake pads touch/slide on the bracket as well. Those clips should be replaced during every brake service.
*parts
-pad clips - MN102200 (4cyl and v6 are the same)

Concern: Brake pedal feel is different at times (soft -> hard -> soft), may be accompanied by a squeak.
Cause:
-Valves in ABS hydraulic unit failing, causing intermittent internal leaks/restrictions causing varying brake pedal feel
-Leaking (internally or externally) master cylinder (causes soft/spongy brake pedal)
Correction:
-If hydraulic unit is causing issue (squeak and differentiating pedal feel), DO NOT REPLACE ON YOUR OWN. There is a special bleeding technique used to bleed air out of the hydraulic unit. Leave this one to the certified trained.
-If the master cylinder is leaking internally, simply replace the master cylinder.
-If the master cylinder is leaking externally, replace the master cylinder, and upon removal, inspect the brake booster and vacuum hose. If brake fluid contamination is present, replace the booster and hose as well. (Brake fluid can deteriorate diaphragm in booster and can degrade quality in hose, causing leak vacuum leaks
*Hint- To help differentiate between master cylinder fault or hydraulic unit, park the vehicle with the engine running. Pump the brake pedal. Now press the brake pedal firmly and hold it down. If the pedal continues to move down torwards the floor slowly (as if the pedal does not stop going down), then there is a leak at the master cylinder. If you press the pedal firmly til it stops, if it stays at that position and doesn't continue to go down, hydraulic unit is at fault.
-It is also possible you have leaking caliper piston seals, or a leaking line... but this is a COMMON problem thread, with the causes that are common to our vehicles.

Concern: Service engine soon light on (P0421 P0431)
Cause:
-Rich fuel trims from the factory causing the catalytic converters (part of the exhaust manifold) to overheat
Correction:
-Replace the exhaust manifolds/catalytic converters. This is pretty involved for the rear bank of the v6 since it requires removing the passenger axle.
-Take vehicle to dealer for updated fuel trim software reflash. But before you do anything, you should take your vehicle to the dealer for these codes. They are informed about the condition and will most likely warranty it. (8 year, 80,000 miles)
*Hint- Even if your out of warranty, you should still visit the dealer to see if you can get it covered. Alot of times, especially if your a frequent customer, they have the right to "goodwill" the repair. Which may be free or little cost to you.
-p0421 rear bank
-p0431 front bank
*Parts
Exhaust manifold
-4 cyl 1555a085 or 1555a085 (varies by vin) p0421 or p0431 or both
-6 cyl 1555a420 bank 2 kit (front/left) p0431
-6 cyl 1555a425 bank 1 kit (rear/right) p0421

Concern: Service engine soon light on (P0455-Evap gross leak)
Cause:
-Broken vapor canister
Correction:

Concern: SRS light on
Cause:
-Unplugged seat (maybe you removed your seats to vacuum), srs ecu doesn't see occupant sensor and sear airbag, so it panics and throws codes for OCS and air bag modules.
-Or maybe you unplugged your center display which contains the indicator lamps about the passenger air bag and seatbelt. (yes, srs ecu monitors those)
-Turned the key to the on position while the vehicle battery had low voltage. (Ign 1 voltage extraordinarily low)
Correction:
-CHECK ALL THOSE CONNECTIONS
-verify your battery is charged and above 11.2 volts
-Perform reset procedure (Disconnect battery for 10 minutes while hooking up a load, like a test light or 12v accessory between the positive and negative cables to discharge any residual voltage)
*Hint- This reset procedure also works for clearing out any other dtc's (a/t, mfi, a/c, etacs, etc)

Concern: Transmission in fail safe mode (Stuck in 2nd/3rd gear), harsh shifting, gear indicator light flashing (A/T only)
Cause:
-Shifting the car when the rpm's are at 7k
-Broken wires at shift selector position switch (top of trans under intake piping)
Correction:
-Scan for DTC's.
-If dtc's are gear ratio related, transmission needs internal repair (valve body, solenoids, clutch packs, etc)
-Most of the time it will be a shift select lever or vss code. open wire by the sensor/switch. 9/10 times ive seen the wires bit into, torn apart by an animal. I don't know why but if an animal is going to live in the engine bay, its under the intake piping on top of the trans, next to the battery.
-Repair the wiring and reset the codes.

Concern: No start when cold
Cause:
-Engine flooded. It's a reflex for alot of people to hold the key in the start position for 1 second. But when its single digits out (very cold), the engine may need a bit more cranking to start. Usually when they turn the key the first time and it fails, they will crank it again for a few seconds (and not wait til the engine actually starts before they release the key). By that time, the engine has been cranked for ~5 seconds without actually starting. The third time they will crank for about 5 seconds and totally flood the engine.
Correction:
4 cyl ONLY-> Remove spark plugs.<-
1) Disconnect connector on the vehicle-front side of the timing belt cover (if your looking at the timing belt cover from the passenger side of the engine bay, the connector will be to the right of that cover. Unplug it.
1a) On the v6, the connector is between the two timing belt covers in the middle of both banks, triangular shape.
2) Hook up jumper cables(turn on car that jumper cables are hookd up to) or a booster pack
3) Crank the engine with your foot on the gas pedal all the way to the floor. Crank for ~5 seconds. This will suck in air through the intake which will blend with the air and let the mixture out of the exhaust, pretty much cleaning the cylinders. And removing the spark plugs helps with the whole air theory.
4) Let it sit with the key in the on position for 5 seconds with the gas pedal to the floor again.
5) Then crank again for another ~8 seconds.
6) Reinstall spark plugs if removed (at some cases, the plugs could be fouled out if the cylinders were severely flooded, then they will need to be replaced).
7) Reconnect unplugged connector.
8) Crank the engine with gas pedal pressed down until vehicle starts (it may take a bit of cranking but DONT STOP CRANKING UNTIL IT STARTS, and keep your foot on the gas pedal).
You will get some smoke, from all the unburnt gas. You will probably also get SERVICE ENGINE SOON light with misfire and cam/crank sensor DTC's. Simply clear them with a scanner or drive it around 5 ignition cycles for 20 minutes each, or perform a reset procedure via battery (clean throttle body after reset procedure via battery)
*Hint- The connectors we disconnected are for the crank angle sensor. Unplugging that will leave the ecu clueless on timing and will not shoot spark or fuel.
-We do not take out plugs on the v6 because the spark plug removal consists of removing the intake manifold. Pretty involved, so if you don't mind doing so, go ahead and remove plugs on your v6. Otherwise, you should be fine.
-Put a flame to the tip of the plugs to ignite/get rid of the remaining fuel that sits on the plug tips.
-We hook up jumper cables or a booster pack because this procedure of cranking without alternator charging will probably kill the battery.
-If your one that has a broken key, the electronic portion of the key must be held to the igntion cylinder for the immobilizer to read. If not, the immobilizer will engage because it thinks the vehicle is trying to be started without the programmed keys, so it will not shoot spark, which can flood your engine as well.

Concern: Vehicle will not idle after battery replacement/recharge
Cause:
-
Correction:
-

Concern: Water leak at A-pillar (non-spyder with sunroof)
Cause:
-Seal around sunroof glass shrinks over time, causing poor seal at sunroof glass. The occurs when the heavy rain comes or through the car wash. It may come out of the a-pillar's bolt covers, but if it pools up enough in the headliner, it may pour out of the c-pillars under acceleration.
Correction:
-Replace the sunroof glass. The weatherstrip (seal) does not come seperate.
-After replacing the glass, check your gaps between the seal and the roof of the car. An index card is the perfect thickness of gap. It should be able to move with little-no restriction. But should not move loosely in the gaps. Otherwise, you may have to adjust the angle of the glass.
*Hint- Whenever dealing with weatherstrips, lubricate the weatherstrips and mating surfaces with silicone spray before installation, and spray weatherstrips at every oil change.

Concern: Water leak on passenger floor (sometimes driver)
Cause:
-Clogged evaporator/heater core box drain from loose debris/leaves
Correction:
-I'll post a picture sometime but you have to locate the drain tube in the firewall under the hood, and stick a wire hanger to unclog the drain. Compressed air works well too.

Concern: Water leak (Spyders)
Cause:
-
Correction:
-

Concern: Engine noise, valve/lifter knocking/tapping
Cause:
-Bad bleeding in lifters.
Correction:
-Search around, there is alot of discussion about this on the boards. But most likely you will find a rev pattern which is used to bleed the lifters. It may not fix it 100% but it surely helps.
-Adjusting valve lash a help, but only help a bit. I've adjust valve lash clearance enough times and only 8% of the ones I've done have required adjusting.
*Hints- I've seen oil pumps on 4 cyl engines go bad once every few years, which will give you a rod knock due to low pressure from side clearance. But do not confuse the lifter noise with a rod knock. You can tell the difference by engine temp and rpm. At operating temperature and 2500-3500+ rpm, lifter noise will die down a bit. Rod knock will always be present no matter what RPM your at.
-Always use 5w-20, change your oil every 3,000 miles, and when the vehicle is started when colder than 60 degrees farenheit, allow the coolant temp guage to reach the middle.


Concern: Engine noise, high pitch noise (belt rubbing metal) (V6 ONLY)
Cause:
-Oil filter shield rubbing against drive belt. Some large oil filter sockets will PUsh the shield out when you twist the filter loose.
Correction:
-Grab the engine oil filter with your palm, and the shield with your fingers, and squeeze to bring the shield back closer to the filter, but do not let it make contact with the filter.
-Or you could just take it off.
*Hint- If this happens to your vehicle, FIX IT. If it keeps rubbing long enough, it may tear the drive belt.

Concern: Coolant leak
Cause:
-Mitusbishi engines have water pump issues. They tend to leak often
Correction:
-Replace the water pump. All belts have to come off and coolant has to be drained for the water pump to be changed. So replacement of the timing belt, balancer belt (4cyl only), tensioner, drive belts, and thermostat are recommended.
*Hint- This is a warranty-able fix if your vehicle is still under warranty. So take it to the dealer if it is, and tell them that while they are in that area, you want them to replace the belts and thermostat. It may cost you the price of the belts/tensioner/tstat, and some labor for the tstat, but it'll save you 5-6 hours for when you want to replace those things later. 5 hours of labor could be $600 at some dealers.
*parts-

Concern: Oil leak/seepage around oil pan
Cause:
-Liquid gasket at oil pan is degraded, causing oil leak. Very common and I've seen this as early as 6,000 miles.
Correction:
-Remove engine oil pan and clean off old gasket material. Reseal with Mitsubishi's FIPG, or oem equivalent liquid gasket (like hondabond). Do not use an actual gasket sheet, those are worthless.

Concern: ATF leakage (A/T ONLY, obviously)
Cause:
-Transmission pan gasket material degraded, causing atf leak. Same as engine oil pan.
-Axle seals leaking.
Correction:
-Remove transimission oil pan and remove gasket material. Reseal with DiaQueen ATF liquid sealant (pink, do not use mitsu' engine oil gray sealant)
-For axle leaks, its pretty involved, requireing removing both the axles, and using a seal puller or pry bar to take them out and a dealer special tool (big socket and a mallet) to press the new seals in.
*Hint- For some reason, from the factory, the passenger inner boot (4 cyl only), will have a coat of grease on it. Do not confuse this as an axle leak. You can differentiate by looking at the surrounding area of where the passenger axle goes into the trans. If the surrounding area has residue, the axle seal is leaking. If the residue is ONLY on the passenger inner boot, theres no leak to worry about, just degrease the boot. But most dealers should clean the boot residue at pre-delivery inspection before they sell the vehicle.

Concern: Climate control backlighting internmittent operation. More common on auto a/c systems.
Cause:
-Internal failure on Climate cotrol module.
Coffection:
Replace the whole climate control module.

Concern: A/C inop, a/c light flashing, air from vents is never cold when ambient temp is hot, a/c compressor clutch not kicking in.
Cause:
-Leak at top passenger corner of condensor.
-Leak at one of the lines off the compressor where the rubber hose turns into metal line.
Correction:
-Replace condensor (requires removal of radiator support, removal of front bumper cover recommended).
-Replace the compressor line.
*Hint- On high mileage vehicles, if the a/c shuts off, or starts blinking at high rpms, the compressor clutch needs to be replaced (worn out and it slips at high rpm's)
-Everytime the a/c light starts flashing, that means there is a current dtc in the climate control system. Could be slipping clutch, low refridgerant charge, ambient temp sensor short, etc. There is no way to retrieve codes without oem MUT-III (Mitsubishie's scan tool)
-Mitsubishi knows about the condensor concern and came out with an updated condensor (released in 2008). To differentiate between old or updated, look at the top passenger corner, in the end tank (cylindrical end of the condensor) it will have an equal sign "=" stamped into it if it is the updated condensor. Previous style condensors will have no markings in that corner area.

QUICK INFO:
Warranty coverage
-Bumper-to-bumper 5 years/60,000 miles
-Powertrain 10 years/100,000 miles (2nd+ owner drops down to 5 years/60,000 miles)
-Emission systems 8 years/80,000 miles
-Adjustments (alignments/freon recharge/etc) 12 months/12,000 miles
-Navi/Audio system 3 years/36,000 miles


I try my best to help out my community here at club4g.org. But at times I may approach a typo that can mislead to many different things. If that ever happens, my apologies. But I assume no responsibility for any mistyped-inaccurate information listed in any of my posts.

But any questions, go ahead and ask. And any input, feel free to add.
 

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Elitist Prick
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Concern: Noise when going over bumps
This is scraping. It indicates that you have achieved the proper level of low.

Concern: Rear hatch does not hold itself in the up position
If you have added an aftermarket spoiler, etc.. it may be too heavy for the lift shocks. Otherwise, your shocks need replaced.

Concern: Pulsation when braking
Warped rotors. Have them turned if not too bad or replace them.

Concern: Engine noise, valve/lifter knocking/tapping
Check under hood. If your engine is a Mitsubishi, this is what is causing the lifter tick.
 

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This thread is really good. I had my resistor fan motor go. They replaced that. I spoke to the dealer today and they said the same thing when backing up the loud noise being the emergency break dust too. They are replacing my cat converter too cause I have the P0420 error code. Can we add cheap plastic door handles coming apart to this thread.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
fml, just finished it up. went to click submit (i guess it logged me out automatically) and it asked me to log in. I logged in and it cleared my inputted text =(

Fatal error: Call to a member function shareads() on a non-object in /home/club4g/club4g.org/board/includes/functions.php(5737) : eval()'d code on line 35
 

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Hates carbon fiber
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1,808 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Concern: Noise when going over bumps
This is scraping. It indicates that you have achieved the proper level of low.

Concern: Rear hatch does not hold itself in the up position
If you have added an aftermarket spoiler, etc.. it may be too heavy for the lift shocks. Otherwise, your shocks need replaced.

Concern: Pulsation when braking
Warped rotors. Have them turned if not too bad or replace them.

Concern: Engine noise, valve/lifter knocking/tapping
Check under hood. If your engine is a Mitsubishi, this is what is causing the lifter tick.
Touche'

Sent from my DROID3 using Tapatalk
 

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Elitist Prick
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Sorry, two are real and the other two....I couldn't resist.
 

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My 07 eclipse goes out of warranty on March 11th and in the last month I've had 5 things break on it. Kind a crazy since my car only has 38k miles and that i'm only a month away from no bumper to bumper.

Dealership had to replace:
Blower Motor (service manager told me this is a very common problem)
Rear Hatch Struts
Trunk Cover
Fuel Cap


Plus the biggest one of all: When I turn the air on to blow on the feet only it blows out the windshield vent... They have to take apart my entire dash to fix it and they will be giving me a free loaner car while they have it for 2-3 days. Has anyone else had this problem???

On the bright side though my dealership has been very easy to work with.
 

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My cigarette lighter plug went out and right when that did so did the one in the middle compartment, would that be a fuse problem? or something else?
 

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So many ideas, But no $$$
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HELP! i didn't see this problem, but i got in my car today and turned it on and thats where shit when wrong; first the check engine light came on (which happens sometimes, because i gutted my headers) then i put it in reverse and it shift harder ass hell! I back up and put it in drive and another hard ass shit, and my "D" is flashing I have it some gas, and my MPH didn't move....HELP ANYONE!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

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HELP! i didn't see this problem, but i got in my car today and turned it on and thats where shit when wrong; first the check engine light came on (which happens sometimes, because i gutted my headers) then i put it in reverse and it shift harder ass hell! I back up and put it in drive and another hard ass shit, and my "D" is flashing I have it some gas, and my MPH didn't move....HELP ANYONE!!!!!!!!!!!!
Sounds like your canbus is fuxored up. You need to reset your codes and it'll go away (until next time). That happened to me after installing my headers (who the hell knows why?). But I cleared the code and it hasn't happened in months. Get yourself the torque app with a obd2 bluetooth scan tool and you can pull and clear codes from your phone. That's what I have.
 

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buying 2007

I am buying a 2007 eclipse and noticed a few issues. The air bag light and fasten seat belt lights are on even when the seatbelts are fastened. Also lights on rearview mirror do not work. The green a.c. light stays on even when pushed and it doesn't seem to blow cold so I am not sure if it is on or not. Thanks in advance for all the help.
 

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anyone think they can help? so i replaced my blower resistor cuz it went out, and now my blower is on full blast no matter what. wether it is off or on low, as soon as i turn key to on, it blows. I have the v6 gt climate control. anyone?
 

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Anyone ever have luck with the SRS fix in this thread? I believe I threw mine while installing my new head unit and I'd rather not spend 100+ at a dealer getting it reset. Can't do a proper quote because I'm on mobile but this is the one I'm talking about:

"Concern: SRS light on Cause: -Unplugged seat (maybe you removed your seats to vacuum), srs ecu doesn't see occupant sensor and sear airbag, so it panics and throws codes for OCS and air bag modules. -Or maybe you unplugged your center display which contains the indicator lamps about the passenger air bag and seatbelt. (yes, srs ecu monitors those) -Turned the key to the on position while the vehicle battery had low voltage. (Ign 1 voltage extraordinarily low) Correction: -CHECK ALL THOSE CONNECTIONS -verify your battery is charged and above 11.2 volts -Perform reset procedure (Disconnect battery for 10 minutes while hooking up a load, like a test light or 12v accessory between the positive and negative cables to discharge any residual voltage) *Hint- This reset procedure also works for clearing out any other dtc's (a/t, mfi, a/c, etacs, etc)"
 

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Anyone ever have luck with the SRS fix in this thread? I believe I threw mine while installing my new head unit and I'd rather not spend 100+ at a dealer getting it reset. Can't do a proper quote because I'm on mobile but this is the one I'm talking about:

"Concern: SRS light on:

This is why we stress you disconnect your battery before any maintenance. There are many SRS sensors in the cabin, as well as engine area, and the rear of the vehicle. When the battery is disconnected the SRS system does not work, and doesn't know it's being worked on. Another reason to disconnect the battery, if you are working on a live electrical system, you can shock one of the many ECU's on this car, also you can set-off a air-bag and injure yourself, or kill yourself.

They do sell OBDII readers that will clear SRS Codes, but they cost +$500.00.

The SRS systems on all cars are under Federal Laws. They don't want this system to be reset by average Joe. That is why the dealership must clear these code/s. They have to by Federal Laws test the SRS system before clearing any SRS codes and make sure the system is working correctly.

.
 

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Yup, I know I messed up after coming here to read about what happened. I'll definitely be disconnecting the battery when working on my car in the future. I was just hoping for a solution to what has already happened cheaper than the ~$100 the dealer wants.
 
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