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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey there! So we have 2 eclipses, 97 Spyder GST with 54,000 miles and 08 Spyder GT with 60,000 miles. The 97 was my dream car in high school so when I found it for sale I bought it right at the beginning of the pandemic. With everything being closed down my daughters and I had a blast driving around everywhere. But the mileage was so low and it’s in such pristine condition that we wanted to keep it that way so we bought the 08 for a daily driver. 97 bone stock except for stereo, so far on the 08 we’ve done an Injen Cai, lowered it 2.5 inches, completely tinted out, blacked out headlights, catback exhaust, and an underglow kit! Thought I’d be able to do more to it but after reading the new members post , sounds like there’s not much we can do to beef it up🙁
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Wow is that 2g ever a find!
Yeah man…literally a little old lady deal…school teacher that bought it new in 97, it had been sitting in a garage under a cover for 5 years when I found it. Changed all the fluids, belts, tires, etc. , (it still had the original tires on it!) other than a few door dings here and there it’s almost perfect.
 

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Basically Stock
2009 GS Turbo. 2007 GT
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Welcome to the club. If you're looking for power, there's a ton that can be done, and I'm probably the guy to talk to. If it's the 4 cylinder and manual, power can be found very easily, but requires some skills. If it's the 6, well, if you want to stay below 450whp you're in a good spot, else it becomes quite costly and complicated, but can be done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Welcome to the club. If you're looking for power, there's a ton that can be done, and I'm probably the guy to talk to. If it's the 4 cylinder and manual, power can be found very easily, but requires some skills. If it's the 6, well, if you want to stay below 450whp you're in a good spot, else it becomes quite costly and complicated, but can be done.
Right on man! Please let me know what you think! It’s the GT V6
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
What are you realistically shooting for power wise, and how are you mechanically? Toss me a number between 240whp and 1000whp, and which trans you have
When I got the car I thought 4-450 would be the goal…nothing extremely crazy, but just enough to make people be like whaaaaat?? Lol
I’ve got plenty of tools here and my stepson is a mechanic and has access to a lift if we need it
 

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Basically Stock
2009 GS Turbo. 2007 GT
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A rear mounted turbo such as a PT5976 would be a good go, after you've got a pair of road race engineering headers (or custom). 2.75-3" exhaust would be a good go. 2.75" before the turbo and 3" after would help kill off some lag and spool time as well as preserve some extra flow velocity down low in the RPM range over 3" the whole run. You could get away wihh a 2.25" for the wastegate pipe. Running it to its own muffler is a good go, as wastegates without a muffler are noisy. 39mm should be fine for preventing boost creep.

Fuel system wise, the stock pump won't do 450. A DW200 pump does 255lph, it's right on edge at 450. Stock pump is fine for ~400hp, as a 240lph (actual pumping values will vary with boost, as head pressure in the manifold fights the pump when injectors open). There are many larger pumps, but they'll require a return style fuel system to either work at all, or to not blow a stock regulator every week. Been there, done that. Stock injectors are also a no go. You're going to want something in the 600cc/minute flow area. If you get GOOD injectors like Fuel Injector Development, I know from experience the stock ECU is still happy with them at 1000cc (no need to have a high idle to not go rich). Changing injector size needs a tune.

Still no idea which trans you have. But FX400 clutches work well on the manual for with racing use. FX350 is a bit more street friendly and longer life in street use than an FX400. Both will work. Auto trans, you're actually in the clear here if it is healthy. Just keep up on fluid changes, and I would suggest a trans temp sensor to keep an eye that you aren't overheating

Motor internals will be fine for 450 if you want them at their limits. It's the rods that aren't happy at that point. 400whp isn't bad.

Tuning, there's Fastworks (550usd+$170 adapter) or you could look into a standalone ECU or piggyback. Piggyback is a good way to go, and having it tuned at a local dyno tuner is something I HIGHLY suggest for anyone doing boosted builds who doesn't do their own tuning. Tune it a little overly rich in boost, and keep things safe on stock internals.

MAP sensor, an evo 8/9 sensor works for sure. Evo X should work as well, but I haven't tested. Needs a tune to run with this installed

MAF, you'll need a larger one if you're still using it. Stock is 2.75", won't go past ~340whp. 3.5" will do ~550whp. It scales with surface area of the circle, not diameter. The scaling isn't 100% matched to surface area, as the flow isn't 100% perfectly laminar without boundary zones. But it's very close. A tuner will set that up.

Charge piping, you'll need to run way up to the front and way back unless you use a water:air intercooler, or get creative with methanol injection (it'll be low boost). I'd still likely go air:air intercooler. You won't need anything crazy big, but don't undersize yourself with a $65 eBay one (usually 4" tall *12-18" wide *2" thick or so). 6-8" *18-24" *2.5-3.5" would be plenty, and you'll find lots in that range. 6-8" tall won't need the crash bar removed or notched. I run a 12" tall on my GS, and notched out half the crash beam. But it runs 28psi boost, not 6. So there's much hotter air going through.

That's most of what's involved.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
A rear mounted turbo such as a PT5976 would be a good go, after you've got a pair of road race engineering headers (or custom). 2.75-3" exhaust would be a good go. 2.75" before the turbo and 3" after would help kill off some lag and spool time as well as preserve some extra flow velocity down low in the RPM range over 3" the whole run. You could get away wihh a 2.25" for the wastegate pipe. Running it to its own muffler is a good go, as wastegates without a muffler are noisy. 39mm should be fine for preventing boost creep.

Fuel system wise, the stock pump won't do 450. A DW200 pump does 255lph, it's right on edge at 450. Stock pump is fine for ~400hp, as a 240lph (actual pumping values will vary with boost, as head pressure in the manifold fights the pump when injectors open). There are many larger pumps, but they'll require a return style fuel system to either work at all, or to not blow a stock regulator every week. Been there, done that. Stock injectors are also a no go. You're going to want something in the 600cc/minute flow area. If you get GOOD injectors like Fuel Injector Development, I know from experience the stock ECU is still happy with them at 1000cc (no need to have a high idle to not go rich). Changing injector size needs a tune.

Still no idea which trans you have. But FX400 clutches work well on the manual for with racing use. FX350 is a bit more street friendly and longer life in street use than an FX400. Both will work. Auto trans, you're actually in the clear here if it is healthy. Just keep up on fluid changes, and I would suggest a trans temp sensor to keep an eye that you aren't overheating

Motor internals will be fine for 450 if you want them at their limits. It's the rods that aren't happy at that point. 400whp isn't bad.

Tuning, there's Fastworks (550usd+$170 adapter) or you could look into a standalone ECU or piggyback. Piggyback is a good way to go, and having it tuned at a local dyno tuner is something I HIGHLY suggest for anyone doing boosted builds who doesn't do their own tuning. Tune it a little overly rich in boost, and keep things safe on stock internals.

MAP sensor, an evo 8/9 sensor works for sure. Evo X should work as well, but I haven't tested. Needs a tune to run with this installed

MAF, you'll need a larger one if you're still using it. Stock is 2.75", won't go past ~340whp. 3.5" will do ~550whp. It scales with surface area of the circle, not diameter. The scaling isn't 100% matched to surface area, as the flow isn't 100% perfectly laminar without boundary zones. But it's very close. A tuner will set that up.

Charge piping, you'll need to run way up to the front and way back unless you use a water:air intercooler, or get creative with methanol injection (it'll be low boost). I'd still likely go air:air intercooler. You won't need anything crazy big, but don't undersize yourself with a $65 eBay one (usually 4" tall *12-18" wide *2" thick or so). 6-8" *18-24" *2.5-3.5" would be plenty, and you'll find lots in that range. 6-8" tall won't need the crash bar removed or notched. I run a 12" tall on my GS, and notched out half the crash beam. But it runs 28psi boost, not 6. So there's much hotter air going through.

That's most of what's involved.
Wow! Thank you!
 
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