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Discussion Starter #1
Tried to replace starter this weekend on my 2010 GS 85k miles. When attempting to remove the O2 sensors from the exhaust manifold to get the heat shield off, only one sensor would come out. On the stuck one, i ended up using almost an entire can of PB blaster, a torch, some big leverage bars, and its only come out about 1.5 turns and no more :madfawk:. At this point i cant get to the starter, had to shut the project down for the weekend (which sucks because the eclipse is my DD). Im thinking my best route would be to go with a new header/exhaust manifold and say screw it cut off the stuck O2 sensor just to get that all out of the way, replace my starter, install new header, and have a performance mod after all the headache this has been. Now my question, i do not have state inspection in my area of WI. if i go with an aftermarket header, i know i will throw a code for the O2 sensor, but is the code the only problem? or will i have any performance issues associated with it? If there will be a performance issue, i may as well spend the extra ammount and get an RRE header with the spacers, and buy a new O2 sensor to replace the one i will be cutting off. I'd rather buy a cheaper header (i cant find stock exhaust manifolds) and not buy a new O2 sensor just to get this starter project done. Ive been reading on the forums, it doesnt look like anyone else has had THIS much of an issue with an O2 sensor, and I havent found an answer to the question of whether or not its ok to run without those 2 sensors or have them installed in a place thats not optimal like a cheaper header. Sorry for the long post, this has taken up my entire weekend:sad: and I need answers. Thanks for reading!
 

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Mits Man
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I put an RRE header in my 2010 GS Sport a couple months back and had to battle my O2 sensors too. I also installed the spacers and haven't had any codes thrown yet.

You mentioned you "may as well get an RRE header"... what other header are you considering? The only other brand-name aftermarket header is made by OBX and I heard their quality is questionable.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I put an RRE header in my 2010 GS Sport a couple months back and had to battle my O2 sensors too. I also installed the spacers and haven't had any codes thrown yet.

You mentioned you "may as well get an RRE header"... what other header are you considering? The only other brand-name aftermarket header is made by OBX and I heard their quality is questionable.
Thanks for the feedback on the RRE. I was just browsing Ebay and it looks like they sell questionable cheap headers, but if that's not right then I'll just wait 2 weeks to save up for the RRE and a new o2 sensor
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Also, any tips on how you got your o2 sensors out? When looking at the engine bay, the one on the left came out super easy, the right one is the stuck one. I've tried everything and it wont come out.
 

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Mits Man
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I would definitely recommend saving up, a header is a pretty critical part. I got my hands on a lightly used RRE header from this forum for only $220!

Sorry, can't help you on the O2 sensors. I was able to get the 2 upper manifold sensors out with a torch and some muscle. The lower 2 would not come out AT ALL! I ended up having my local mechanic remove them and install the spacers for me. They said that they used a torch and high-quality O2 removal tool attached to a big breaker bar.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I would definitely recommend saving up, a header is a pretty critical part. I got my hands on a lightly used RRE header from this forum for only $220!

Sorry, can't help you on the O2 sensors. I was able to get the 2 upper manifold sensors out with a torch and some muscle. The lower 2 would not come out AT ALL! I ended up having my local mechanic remove them and install the spacers for me. They said that they used a torch and high-quality O2 removal tool attached to a big breaker bar.
How long did you have to wait to get that used RRE? Seems like they're pretty high demand on here
 

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you can just disconnect the o2 sensors at the connectors by the valve cover and take the manifold out with the o2 sensors still in.
 

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Mits Man
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!!f

How long did you have to wait to get that used RRE? Seems like they're pretty high demand on here
A couple months after I bought my Eclipse I logged on one day and saw one for sale... goes without saying I bought it ASAP! Keep your eye on the Automotive For Sale/Wanted section, you never know what will pop up on this forum.

In your situation you may just want to follow NamelessFoe's advice and remove the manifold with the O2 sensors still in. At least that way you can install the starter and get your Eclipse back on the streets!

Also, you can always clear the catalytic material from your stock manifold (while it's removed) for a slight performance boost. I read several threads on this forum claiming that it is damn near as effective as installing a header.
 

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F.N.G.
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I got the RRE headers on my GT about 2 years ago and even with the O2 spacers it was throwing a code whenever I would run the car hard for more than 20 or 30 miles. It would stay on for a day or two and then clear itself. RRE said this was because the heat build up on the headers doesn't match the range for that sensor with the stock exhaust. I put their axle back MF exhaust on about a year ago and I haven't seen a code yet (and I've ran it HARD). The exhaust really brings the header advantage alive and IMO is worth the extra cash to get your engine breathing both in AND out more easily (a bonus is it sounds way better than the stock rattle can too).
There was zero performance affect with the code it was throwing, just an annoying light on the dash, but once I put the exhaust on you could seriously tell a difference (maybe 10hp and getting the full benefits of the headers at the same time, so possibly 20hp altogether). If you love your car, do this for sure. Again, I can only speak for the GT side of things so Sabertooth could probably tell you what to expect from the GS better than I can.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
How long did you have to wait to get that used RRE? Seems like they're pretty high demand on here
A couple months after I bought my Eclipse I logged on one day and saw one for sale... goes without saying I bought it ASAP! Keep your eye on the Automotive For Sale/Wanted section, you never know what will pop up on this forum.
Last night I think I found your post to buy that guys header, yea that was lucky timing congrats. Thanks for the tip I will keep an eye on there. Also, pounding out that cat material, does it cause any issues with throwing codes?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I got the RRE headers on my GT about 2 years ago and even with the O2 spacers it was throwing a code whenever I would run the car hard for more than 20 or 30 miles. It would stay on for a day or two and then clear itself. RRE said this was because the heat build up on the headers doesn't match the range for that sensor with the stock exhaust. I put their axle back MF exhaust on about a year ago and I haven't seen a code yet (and I've ran it HARD). The exhaust really brings the header advantage alive and IMO is worth the extra cash to get your engine breathing both in AND out more easily (a bonus is it sounds way better than the stock rattle can too).
There was zero performance affect with the code it was throwing, just an annoying light on the dash, but once I put the exhaust on you could seriously tell a difference (maybe 10hp and getting the full benefits of the headers at the same time, so possibly 20hp altogether). If you love your car, do this for sure. Again, I can only speak for the GT side of things so Sabertooth could probably tell you what to expect from the GS better than I can.
If I have to go the RRE route, I had a shop cut my mufflers off a few years ago and weld in a resonator right before the y-pipe since I've got the duel tip exhaust. Will I need to upgrade the exhaust from after the header to that y-pipe to take the most advantage of the power gain or will those mufflers being out create enough free flow? It's not straight piped, it just has 1 resonator before it splits from the y to the 2 straight exhaust pipes
 

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Discussion Starter #12
you can just disconnect the o2 sensors at the connectors by the valve cover and take the manifold out with the o2 sensors still in.
I looked at it after work today feeling like an idiot that I didnt realize this. But when looking at it I can unplug the sensors but they each have this metal prong in them and i cant get them to truly move anywhere, theyll unplug but i cant move the plug anywhere. I suppose since I have the 1 sensor out, then I can disconnect the exhaust manifold and pull it up out of the way by the sensor plugs but itll have to be right there, I cant take it out of the engine bay entirely. I attached some pics here if you or anyone else can see what I'm saying, maybe I'm just being dumb and need to pull harder but I cant get it to seperate from that metal prong.
 

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F.N.G.
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Did you leave the main cat under there? (there should be one before the resonator), leave that cat alone as it's needed for correct back pressure. Again, all my experiences have been with my v6 gt version, but I'm a little surprised adding that extra outflow without opening up the intake/headers haven't caused you a little power loss. Everything balances out nicely once you get both ends opened up.
Also, it was SUPER tight getting out the factory headers on my car (the 4 cylinder version may not be so bad). I can't imagine trying to wrestle that thing out of there with one or more O2 sensors still connected, but you gotta do what you gotta do if they won't come out.
Good luck, it's a PITA to pull the OEM headers, but most of us have done it and it's well worth it!
 

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I looked at it after work today feeling like an idiot that I didnt realize this. But when looking at it I can unplug the sensors but they each have this metal prong in them and i cant get them to truly move anywhere, theyll unplug but i cant move the plug anywhere. I suppose since I have the 1 sensor out, then I can disconnect the exhaust manifold and pull it up out of the way by the sensor plugs but itll have to be right there, I cant take it out of the engine bay entirely. I attached some pics here if you or anyone else can see what I'm saying, maybe I'm just being dumb and need to pull harder but I cant get it to seperate from that metal prong.
Yeah, push the connectors off the holder, they just slide on. It's going to be tight since it's never been done til now. Push the connectors towards the inside of the car. Once they are off the holder you can disconnect them.
 
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