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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
For those who have Single HID H13 kits in their OEM headlamps, when you go to flash your highs (instinct usually), you lose all light, which could be very dangerous.

Here's what you need to do to fix it.


Basically, T the ballast's Positive wire, and connect both legs of the T 2 the OUTSIDE wires of the H13 socket.

Wiring Before:


Wiring After:


I dont have an Eclipse, or an H13 HiD Kit, so I had to improvise. That white connector is an H13 connector though. Basically, as long as the ballast's Positive wire goes to both OUTSIDE wires, and the ballast's negative wire goes to the MIDDLE wire, nothing else matters.

Quoted from Khanh, Club4geclipse
 

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Whats the difference between say the H11 and H13. The HID's are somethin I know absolutely nothing about. But every1 is telling to go w/ them.
 

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They sell HID kits that have the high and low beams. I have them for my car. It has two bulbs in the one H13 housing. One bulb is HID and the other is halogen, for the hi-beam.

You should not flash an HID ballast on and off because it will fry your ballast in short time.

Another style that incorporates a ji-beam uses a magnetic device in the bulb. When you hit the hi-beam the magnet pulls the HID bulb up so that it raises the light beam. This type doesn't respond quickly so doesn't work well when you flash.
 

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haha yeah I hit my high beam and lost all light once.. learned my lesson
 

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Devil's Advocate
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HID for high/Low im jealous.
 

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:whistle:

Again... you shouldn't have to disable DRLs. A good "kit" will be wired directly to constant 12V power, and relayed to run any kind of hi/lo factory switched power. I say make your own harness... but then again not everyone listened to their Physics teacher when they covered Ohm's Law in high school so...

Yeah.

And true quality hi/lo setups aren't a function of the bulbs... they're a function of the projectors ;) Putting "hi/lo" bulbs in a factory dome headlight system is no different than putting any bulb... but this time with shutters. Kinda stupid actually. And using them with projector units is just outright dumb. Especially if you're going to try to fit something like that in an H1/H13... which really won't fit to begin with.
 

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I've gone through 2 kits both pretty good first one being autovizion didnt have to disable the drls didnt even worry about it.. second one being xetronics also prettyy damn good, had to disable the drls so it all depends.. and ya i failed physics last semester so lets not even go there haha even though it was mechanics and not e and m
 

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Well... like I said. All you need is CONSTANT 12v power. Heck, use a different switch for your lights if you'd like. Personally I'd use something like park... or the DRLs themselves as the switched power :p
 
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