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Intermittent No Start (with weird temporary fix)

398 Views 12 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  2010eclipsespyderman
My car for a while now has had intermittent no starts (whirring, one click, no crank) they happened every few months until recently they’ve happened pretty much every other time I try to start the car. Just got alternator tested at autozone and it ran fine (14+ volts at idle). Battery was replaced shortly before buying the car (about 8 months ago). Starter could be the issue or many other random things as I’ve seen in these forums (wires, fuses, fuel injectors?, and so on). Only thing is- I just found out it will start without fail if I do the following:
1 Try to start
2 move from start or on position back to accessories position
3 try to start again
If I don’t do that it fails to start every time. If I do that it doesn’t fail to start (tried it probably 5 times)

Questions:
Have I just been hovering in accessories for long enough for it to work this whole time and just a weird muscle memory has made my car start all along.. or is it a problem that’s just now actually getting worse?
Could this be a wiring issue and if so why does accessories provide the magic touch to fix it?
Could this be something else given the weirdness of it starting?
(I have 2 keys by the way and one has a new fob battery and it acts the same with both of them)
Why do so many people have so many different weird issues with the starting of these cars?

I’ll try to update with any answers or further questions I find this week. I appreciate any feedback/hypotheses/common experiences. Hope we can once and for all figure out a common cause for this weird type of issue for all of our sakes.
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Try replacing your starter relay it should be cheap and easy and sounds like it could fix it
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Try replacing your starter relay it should be cheap and easy and sounds like it could fix it
Okay I’ll try that and update.
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Getting ready to pull the starter today so I can replace the solenoid and I’m wanting to replace the starter relay as well but I cannot for the life of me figure out where the damn thing is. Tearstone said something about the manual transmission starter relay but not for automatics. Do automatics just not have them? What would they have instead that needs to be checked/replaced if bad?
I’m not sure my issue is related to yours, but I had a no crank 1/10 times. Turns out the ignition cylinder was bad and not sending voltage to the starter.
I’m not sure my issue is related to yours, but I had a no crank 1/10 times. Turns out the ignition cylinder was bad and not sending voltage to the starter.
Interesting okay. I’m in the process of replacing the battery cables (corroded) and possibly the starter. Hopefully the ignition switch to starter cable as well. If it still doesn’t work I’m looking at the ignition switch/lock cylinder. Possibly the battery as well because the positive post is a bit melted.
Try replacing your starter relay it should be cheap and easy and sounds like it could fix it
No starter relay on the automatic from what I can tell- replacing either the solenoid or the starter itself though. Was just gonna do the solenoid but can’t find a good fitting one online so fml probably have to do the whole starter
Battery and alternator tested fine. Replacing starter since no good buying source for a solenoid replacement was found. Replacing battery cables too but I cannot find the gauge info on them fucking anywhere. Anyone know what cables to replace the negative and positive (to starter and to fuse box) cables with?? What gauge are they/what brand/model number is a proper replacement? Nothing about them in the forums, factory manual, mits parts warehouse site, or anywhere
Your key fob battery good?

Sent from my ZTE A2020U Pro using Tapatalk
Your key fob battery good?

Sent from my ZTE A2020U Pro using Tapatalk
Yes. I replaced it recently just for preventative maintenance. Good thing for people to check though not often considered so good thought!
Battery and alternator tested fine. Replacing starter since no good buying source for a solenoid replacement was found. Replacing battery cables too but I cannot find the gauge info on them fucking anywhere. Anyone know what cables to replace the negative and positive (to starter and to fuse box) cables with?? What gauge are they/what brand/model number is a proper replacement? Nothing about them in the forums, factory manual, mits parts warehouse site, or anywhere
Did the cables replacement by making my own and purchasing a new oem fusible link relay from eBay for the positive terminal. Cables replaced: both positive connection cables with 2awg welding copper cable from windynation- lugs are tinned copper, came with the cables on amazon. Terminals are marine grade, universal, modified the fusible link to fit by breaking off a bit of plastic from one side and drilling the Mount hole to 3/8”. Used heat shrink wrap, mesh wire covers, 3m 33+, and gold thermal tape where necessary to protect wires. Also got new heat resistant zipties since old mounting brackets/ties aren’t thick enough for the new cables. The alternator cable was not replaced as it tasted fine but if you want to, 2awg would work for that too. Reused the rubber cable end protector for the starter. Retailed/covered all wire harnesses. Organized new cables similar to before. Also replaced starter with Bosch reman from rock auto. Starting fine, hopefully will continue to. If you need links to supplies/guides for cables etc lmk. My brother in law fixed his 3g with similar problem by getting new battery terminals.
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terminals : shoreline marine battery terminal kit on Amazon- top nut replaced with generic zinc nuts from Lowe’s for tighter fit and ability to fit over fusible link
forgot to mention new chassis negative ground wire is 4awg- not necessary but it’s the smallest i had. Engine/transmission negative ground wire is 2awg though which is important- keep the engine ground the same size as the positive cables.
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