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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What's up everyone,

So about a year ago, right after the pandemic hit, my 2006 Eclipse completely just died on the road. It started fine, I left the house, and then at the stoplight down the road my engine started to idle strangely, dropping lower and lower RPM and then just died completely. After that, it hasn't been able to start.

Well because I had just moved, and lost the job I had lined up to start because of the shutdown, I ended up having to give up on fixing it because I just had no way to pay for it. But we did try a few things, and I had a mechanic come out and look at it, and he didn't figure out what the problem was either.

Now that I'm back on my feet, I've been trying to get this thing back running again. I even had a friend come over that knows far more about mechanic work than I do and we tried to figure out the problem and still nothing.

Basically the car will not spark the plugs. We are 100% sure that the injectors are firing fuel, because we pulled the fuel rail off and it was shooting gas out when we turned the crank. So we are definitely getting fuel, and the injectors are working. Also we pulled out a spark plug, and my friend saw that it definitely wasn't sparking. So now we are racking our heads trying to figure out every reason that could make this car not spark.

First thing we did was replace the crank and cam sensors. They are both brand new. The spark plugs are also brand new. The ECU was throwing a cam sensor code, but that code is cleared now that we've changed it. And the car still doesn't start.

We checked spark plug ground wires and they seemed to be fine. All of the plugs are almost brand new because the mechanic I mentioned looked at my car a year ago replaced all of the plugs.

Now I know that this car won't turn on if the programming in the key fob isn't right, or if the key battery is dying. However, my fob still works to lock the doors and open the trunk, so I doubt that is why the car refuses to spark, although I'm not a g4 expert so I could be wrong. I've also heard that there are some fuses that regulate the ECU, and I checked the "engine control" fuses and they appear to be fine.

So at this point, I'm wondering if it absolutely has to be that my ECU is completely fried, but somehow still turns over the engine and turns all the lights on, or if there are other factors with the car that will cause the ECU to decide to not signal the spark plugs. If anyone knows any other reasons besides the sensors and the fuses that could cause that I'd love to have some more things to try before I concede to taking this thing to a dealership and throwing a million more dollars at it. I've already spent quite a bit on this thing. I don't want to spend all the money on an ECU until I have no choice, especially if I do replace it and it doesn't fix the issue
 

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1. Key battery is for the fob remote control buttons only, not for the immobilizer; the immobilizer chip is battery-less, it just emits a frequency
So don't worry about the battery in the key
2. If it's an immobilizer problem, you'll have a flashing theft light in the dash when the key is in and turned on, and resulting theft codes including P0513 in the PCM/ECU
So if you don't see the theft light flash or have theft codes like P0513 in the engine computer and theft codes in the ETACS, it's not the immobilizer/your key

I want you to do a compression check on the engine and get us the PSI for each cylinder

Btw, 4 or 6 cyl?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Right I should have been more specific with my car, it's a V6 2006 3.8L.

Also I should have been clear about the conditions. The car will crank, it just never actually starts up. That's why we didn't check compression because we were under the impression it wouldn't even crank without it. But I can get back to you with those tests if you still want the results (I'll probably have to buy a tool and learn exactly how to do that).

Also before the timing is put in to question, my friend checked the timing while i rolled the engine over and he seemed to think it was in time.

And we checked some other things on the code reader and the ecu does output data, like is shows spark advance and all of that. So the timing appears to be fine.

On another note, I'm an absolute idiot and accidentally locked the key in the car. Luckily the window didn't shut all the way and im about to try and get a coat hanger in there to pop the lock back open, but i have to go buy one first. Real smooth move on my part.
 

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Right I should have been more specific with my car, it's a V6 2006 3.8L.

Also I should have been clear about the conditions. The car will crank, it just never actually starts up. That's why we didn't check compression because we were under the impression it wouldn't even crank without it. But I can get back to you with those tests if you still want the results (I'll probably have to buy a tool and learn exactly how to do that).

Also before the timing is put in to question, my friend checked the timing while i rolled the engine over and he seemed to think it was in time.

And we checked some other things on the code reader and the ecu does output data, like is shows spark advance and all of that. So the timing appears to be fine.

On another note, I'm an absolute idiot and accidentally locked the key in the car. Luckily the window didn't shut all the way and im about to try and get a coat hanger in there to pop the lock back open, but i have to go buy one first. Real smooth move on my part.
Ok well doing a compression test on the back 3 of the v6 might be complicated, do the front 3 at first at least

The car should auto unlock itself if locked with the key still in the ignition cylinder, unless you left the key inside the car like on the seat or something
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ok well doing a compression test on the back 3 of the v6 might be complicated, do the front 3 at first at least

The car should auto unlock itself if locked with the key still in the ignition cylinder, unless you left the key inside the car like on the seat or something
I left it in the center console. But the OEM door handles on these G4s are easy to pull so I got it out just now with a coat hanger. Key problem solved.

I'm going to have to go out and buy a compression gauge and I'll most likely need another person to help me do the test since someone has to crank the engine so I'll get back to you on the compression test, most likely a few days from now.
 

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I left it in the center console. But the OEM door handles on these G4s are easy to pull so I got it out just now with a coat hanger. Key problem solved.

I'm going to have to go out and buy a compression gauge and I'll most likely need another person to help me do the test since someone has to crank the engine so I'll get back to you on the compression test, most likely a few days from now.
Sounds good
 

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Just out of curiosity. I have never heard of a vehicle not sparking because of a compression issue. I'm just thinking about what the purpose of him spending the money on the equipment to do that test is. I know you can pick them up for cheap. I know a compression tester is a good tool to have and know how to use and all, but it seems like a pointless expense at this time.

He says he had a camshaft sensor code. Was the code manually cleared out or did it go stored. I know some cars when they have codes like that in the system actually need it cleared out. Some cars need to have a new sensor calibrated with a scan tool. The car wont start to prevent mechanical damage.
 

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Just out of curiosity. I have never heard of a vehicle not sparking because of a compression issue. I'm just thinking about what the purpose of him spending the money on the equipment to do that test is. I know you can pick them up for cheap. I know a compression tester is a good tool to have and know how to use and all, but it seems like a pointless expense at this time.

He says he had a camshaft sensor code. Was the code manually cleared out or did it go stored. I know some cars when they have codes like that in the system actually need it cleared out. Some cars need to have a new sensor calibrated with a scan tool. The car wont start to prevent mechanical damage.
The car can throw a P0335 crankshaft sensor on a no start condition they may be something else
It falsely kept sending that code when my starter went out and wasn’t even engaging the flywheel to turn the engine over

Download the Full FSM and page 597+ has your diagnosis for crank and cam codes


Also, this car does not need the crank or cam sensors relearned to it, they either work or they don’t, idk how good of sensors you got but maybe they’re defective too; and the codes don’t need to be cleared to make it run, they’ll just go to history stored codes if it does start

Check the MFI relay as the FSM instructs

I believe that just being a parts changer based on these codes has caused you more trouble, because it’s likely your crank and cam sensors weren’t bad anyhow, they usually don’t do bad, but should just be cleaned during a timing belt job

Something else is your problem

out of curiosity, when were your spark plugs last changed and with what kind of spark plugs?

It’s common on other cars that if the spark plugs go too long without being changed, the added stress of the bigger spark gap jump wears out the COPs, the relay, or even burn out the ignition driver itself inside the engine computer!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The car can throw a P0335 crankshaft sensor on a no start condition they may be something else
It falsely kept sending that code when my starter went out and wasn’t even engaging the flywheel to turn the engine over

Download the Full FSM and page 597+ has your diagnosis for crank and cam codes


Also, this car does not need the crank or cam sensors relearned to it, they either work or they don’t, idk how good of sensors you got but maybe they’re defective too; and the codes don’t need to be cleared to make it run, they’ll just go to history stored codes if it does start

Check the MFI relay as the FSM instructs

I believe that just being a parts changer based on these codes has caused you more trouble, because it’s likely your crank and cam sensors weren’t bad anyhow, they usually don’t do bad, but should just be cleaned during a timing belt job

Something else is your problem

out of curiosity, when were your spark plugs last changed and with what kind of spark plugs?

It’s common on other cars that if the spark plugs go too long without being changed, the added stress of the bigger spark gap jump wears out the COPs, the relay, or even burn out the ignition driver itself inside the engine computer!
The spark plugs are actually brand new because the car has never sparked since we put them in. We changed them out close to a year ago when this first started because the mechanic did it. Im not sure what spark plugs he changed them out with.

We changed them because there was another unrelated problem to the car, the plug holes were filled with oil because some gaskets went bad so the old plugs were flooded. He got all the oil out, changed the gaskets, and put all new plugs in the car. But that was a year ago and wasnt relevant to the situation now. Im pretty sure that was a symptom of the car shutting down and then repeatedly being tried to start without ever firing. Regardless all thats been fixed. So it has nothing to do with our problem now.
 

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Are they NGK Laser Iridium?
Did he actually do the back ones?
The oil in the spark plug holes are from bad tube seals around the valve cover, common failure at this age
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Are they NGK Laser Iridium?
Did he actually do the back ones?
The oil in the spark plug holes are from bad tube seals around the valve cover, common failure at this age
He did do the back ones because he did have the entire cover off and changed the seals. But im not sure what plugs he put in. I'll pull one and check later after I get off work. I didn't think that the plug itself would keep the car from sparking at all though, wouldn't it spark anyways even if the plug was crap? It'd just go bad faster?
 

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He did do the back ones because he did have the entire cover off and changed the seals. But im not sure what plugs he put in. I'll pull one and check later after I get off work. I didn't think that the plug itself would keep the car from sparking at all though, wouldn't it spark anyways even if the plug was crap? It'd just go bad faster?
Bad plugs could’ve stressed the other electronically parts
 
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