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I haven't had mine done... Haven't had any symptoms of issues, and already run DOT4... So I'm not sure what they'd say. Plus... Not OEM brakes or brake lines. Sooooo......
They wouldn’t care if you didn’t have OEM brake components, and the recall has them put a sticker by your brake fluid reservoir and in your manual saying to ONLY use DOT4 as they blamed the corrosion of the ABS module on the DOT3, they flush it with DOT4 and see if that fixes it, on mine it didn’t fix it with just the flush so they said they need to replace the module and keep the car for a few days, they replace the ABS module, program it, and then flush and bleed the system again with DOT4 and tell you to only use DOT4 from here on out

I got the car used and when I got it I had to double pump the brakes every time to stop as pumping once did nothing at all, I assume this is why the previous owner wrecked the car and hit someone else and it ended up at the insurance auction in the first place

It was the only time I ever went to the dealer, cost me $0, and they replaced my module and didn’t just bleed the system so I’m happy 🙂
 

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Basically Stock
2009 GS Turbo. 2007 GT
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Discussion Starter · #262 ·
I'd be happy with a new module, but doubt they'd do it. And every brake caliper has twice the bleeding to be done as well.

I'd probably even rather put in my own ABS module at my own expense if mine ever acted up rather than let them touch it... I couldn't trust them to not ruin my $3000 motor, lol. Eg, if someone started it and drove it right away, that would cause issues. When it fires up, it only makes about 10inhg vacuum, vs the 24 it does hot. That's because the pistons and rings have to expand, and if it's revved up before that, it'll potentially score the shit out of the pistons, rings, and cylinder walls.


I feel there's a point where a dealership just shouldn't be touching it anymore, as they'd expect too many things to be OEM as they're used to.
 

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Basically Stock
2009 GS Turbo. 2007 GT
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Discussion Starter · #266 ·
Ah, there's not much need for me to do anything. You're gonna get the optimal map, because the tune you're getting is based on your mods and averaged out between a thousand people who have been tuned with the exact same mods. Then, they alter it a little for your engine, and it's done.

If after that you want to make the exhaust crackle or something, yeah, I can get you there. But there won't be power to be gained beyond the tune they give you unless you change something after
 

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👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼 I’m definitely down for the crackles addition after I get tuned just gotta get a few more things and I’ll be clean fast lmao
 

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I have mine set to 2500+rpm. Above 4000 I have it set to be most aggressive. I went 2500 because that way I can do the speed limit in town without crackles for tame normal driving.

In my video, I was just shy of 8000rpm at peak, then the pops stopped at 2500
What do u do to create the “pops”? Increase fueling cells and pull timing?
 

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I adjust the hot DFCO, leave the fueling targets untouched, and retard timing to as far as 0 degrees above 4000, and then taper back to 5 degrees at 2500 (makes it very mild down load vs up top)
DFCO? What’s that? Decoration fuel cut off? I don’t think that’s a parameter on my Fastworks definition

Ok, I’ve seen YouTube videos where guys show on the BRZ or something doing this and they just take their first column (0 load?) and make the cells like -8 or something to do this, 0 seems a little safer than a negative number, not sure if all ECU’s on all cars would even understand or allow a negative timing cell number
 

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Basically Stock
2009 GS Turbo. 2007 GT
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Discussion Starter · #275 ·
They should all understand negative. And I do it at load 64 and less, which by default are the top 3 in fastworks I believe.

You can go as aggressive as you want, but it runs hotter, and is more prone to damage something.

You can also add it so that somewhere on the load table higher than that it'll pop too. You'd just have to find the pedal combo and be in that RPM value (eg, 5000-5499) to hit it, and you could blow flames. Or, you could take your table, stretch it out, and do what I did. Beyond 7800 I go 0 degrees up top at all loads. I would need a lighter clutch for it to work as a no lift shift though, or a fresher trans, not sure. But it'll certainly let me know when I hit my redline now, so I won't hit soft cut and have to wait by mistake

For dfco, you can set by temperature and rpm
 

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140whp+15.72%= 162hp
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Hmmm... trying to understand what you and Kyle were talking about, James. But i guess ill know more once i get fastworks.

Oh yeah, if i remove my glasspack, stock resonator and muffler will my pops sound louder? How about flames without going agressive?
 

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Basically Stock
2009 GS Turbo. 2007 GT
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Discussion Starter · #277 ·
Louder yes. Flames, kinda. That's a thing that's easiest on straight piped exhausts of low diameter. Less volume, less dissipation, and the flame happens closer to the end of the pipe.

Eg, a 1.5" straight pipe on these cars (no cats is a must) would give a lot of flames. A 3" with mufflers would have trouble until higher power
 

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Hmmm... trying to understand what you and Kyle were talking about, James. But i guess ill know more once i get fastworks.

Oh yeah, if i remove my glasspack, stock resonator and muffler will my pops sound louder? How about flames without going agressive?
Please do not remove the stock resonator on this car unless you’re doing a dump pipe out of a custom turbo setup or something, it sounds awful without it, it’s kinda like a glass pack
 
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