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2K views 13 replies 4 participants last post by  iBlackSunday 
#1 · (Edited)
After spending over $5,000 starting in 2017, I finally achieved my dream setup.. sounds like a meteor strike when the bass hits- Running Subs at 1200W and Door Speakers at 75W each

Tried so many different setups and FINALLY:



More in-depth look:

https://youtu.be/aXYf_dViHCA

Specs:

Kenwood Excelon DMX906S Carplay Radio

Rockford Fosgate Prime R400-4D

Kenwood Excelon KFC-XP6903C Door Speakers

Rockford Fosgate R1200-1D

QPower QBOMB12VL Box

Dual 12" Rockford Fosgate P3's



Swear that every time I get out of my car my jaw is at the floor.. mind is blown at how powerful this setup is!! If there is anyone is MI come check it out
 
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#3 ·
Like I said in the post, I have been trying different setups since 2017. I asked for a history of all of my purchases at mickey shorr when I got this done a few days ago and it dated back to Dec 2017.. added every total up to $5,000. I am sure that if you bought all of these items brand new that you'd be close to 2k not including their labor cost


Edit: car audio is extremely expensive, especially if you don't know what you want ;)
 
#5 ·
Thank you bro!!
 
#6 · (Edited)
I've been an audio head for so long too, since owning my first car. I just got my old old old dual 12 inch Type-R's from my ex-girlfriends house and I just ordered a new stereo deck to get the subs working. I would LOVE to get some Orion HCCA's, but brand new ones are rather expensive, and I know what these subs sound like, and I'm SOOO excited to hear what they sound like in our cars. My amp is a 1800 watt and it hits like a mac truck.

When you installed the aftermarket stereo deck, what did you do for your usual door/rear speakers? Did you have the speakers and the amp before/during? I'm afraid, and I've looked into it that our door speakers don't really connect with aftermarket stereo decks, and I'm looking for different routing of wires to get the stock speakers working without spending $80 on a wiring kit to get it to work, since I'll be replacing them soon, but when it comes to mid speakers, I'm completely lost. All my knowledge is on thundering powerful subwoofers.

Thanks for sharing. I'm so glad there are some on here that are into audio like I am.
 
#10 · (Edited)
By Type-R I mean the Alpine Type-R 12". They're pretty old, but the last time I bumped them, they would absolutely ruin my car. I had a 98 cavalier that was basically brand new with 54,000 miles on it when I bought it back in 2016, and I had to lock-tite a ton of the bolts on the trunk because they would keep coming out. I'm using a 1800 Watt Audiopipe to power them in a rather large ported box. They fucking BEAT and I'm so excited to get them setup in my 4g.

My future audio work is going to involve replacing the dash speakers as well as the door speakers, and I'm looking at amps and speakers right now, even though I lack the funds to purchase anything since all my money is tied up in equipment to get the subs up and running with CORRECT connections. I'm assuming the door and tweets are basically the same connection as the subs, just with smaller power load, meaning Amp connects to battery, Speakers connect to Amp and Amp connects to head unit with RCAs. I've never replaced stock speakers on a vehicle, but I HAVE done a TON of subwoofer work, so I figured it's the same just with less power.

I got my head unit connected with a universal $10 wiring harness from wal-mart, and as I suspected, the door speakers and the woofer in the backseat isn't functional without the Mito-1 harness. I'm not going to worry about the Mito-1 since it's like $130+ and since they speakers the Mito-1 makes work is basically bass, I'm sure the woofers will work great. I also don't want to purchase the Mito-1 since I'm going to be spending the money on the new door and other speakers. I don't know much about mid range and tweeters, so what should I be looking for?
 
#11 ·
Dawg.. your setup will be soooo loud!! Those subs can easily take all 1800W too so crank it up.. just be mindful that your windshield can only take so much ;)

To be honest, I'd copy my exact setup. I have been around and it looks like the Prime R400-4D amp paired with some Excelon KFC-XP6903C's are the best way to go. The sound is unbeatable for the price.

Now - You will really need that mito1 harness.. I have no clue how you are going to get the factory door speakers to work without it. Depends on the radio, but if it only accepts RCA's as a speaker input you'll need an amp if you dont have the mito harness. I wouldn't recommend splicing into the factory harness; sounds like a disaster and smells like electric fire. I personally like to go by the books, but if you can figure out to do that, hats off to you!

I have the GS so who knows but I don't have dash speakers.. are you sure you arent confusing a speaker with an air vent? If you have 6 speakers as opposed to my 4, you will need an amp with more channels.

I'm not going to worry about the Mito-1 since it's like $130+ and since they speakers the Mito-1 makes work is basically bass
The speakers that I'm assuming you are talking about are not responsible for bass, they are your midrange and tweeters. There are 2 door speakers, and 2 speakers in the back level with the seat cushion.
 
#12 · (Edited)
Unless you've completely missed the tweeter speakers on the dash, there are 2. In the very corner of your dash right before the wind shield.

I don't plan on using the stock speakers or the stock amp, which is why I wasn't even going to worry about the Mito-1 harness. With a new amp and new speakers, I'd be completely removing the stock amp in the kick panel of the passenger side and just installing my own amp+speakers in the trunk or back seat. I plan on not having a single audio component be stock, and with an aftermarket amp and aftermarket speakers, the 2nd plug from the stock stereo would be useless (The one the Mito-1 utilizes).

After I post this reply, I'm going to go make sure I'm not losing it and double check the dash speakers. Our cars have 9 speakers. 2 on dash against the windshield, 2 in the doors, 2 in the back seat (They're two way meaning they count as 4 total) and the subwoofer.

Speaker Locations:
Dash Speaker Location
Door Speaker Location
Back Seat Speaker Location (Coup)
Back Seat Speaker Location (Convertible)
Subwoofer Location (Coup)
Subwoofer Location (Convertible)
 
#13 ·
You are right.. I have 2 speakers sitting in my dash that aren't being used!! I am trying to decide if I want to power those with a bigger amp or not now.. It sounds pretty good how it is now.. I haven't even heard the true potential because I don't want to go deaf! Radio is tuned to be turned up to 40 with no problems but I can only get it up to 25 before it hurts.

I thought that the MITO harness was necessary regardless.. My bad for the confusion. You will have to post a vid to the forums when you get the subs working, I can only image the sound. You said you will be taking yours out, so you think I should take out my stock amp or just leave it? It is still mounted in my car but I like to go by that "out of sight, out of mind" saying.
 
#14 ·
Nah, the MITO-1 harness is only necessary if you're utilizing the stock amp in the car. If you have your own mid and tweeter speakers hooked up to an aftermarket amp and ran all new wires, you're literally not touching any of the stock stereo equipment, which is what I was planning on doing. The mids and tweeters will be coming through from the RCA outputs on the back of the aftermarket stereo deck. The tweeters might be a different story and you might needed to purchase a pass through to kind of be the middle man between the aftermarket deck and the wiring. I want ZERO Mitsubishi stock stereo equipment. Personally, I'm probably going to remove the amp and sell it to recoup on the money I'll be spending on the aftermarket stereo equipment, but it's not needed. You can get $80-$100 on the amp as well as $50-70 on the stock stereo face plate and stock deck.
 
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