[Sabertooth^2]

Resonator isn't gonna affect it as much as the muffler and cats. Cats will just stop it happening usually. If you have a 2.5" exhaust, you must be taking only the rear bit if you have the stock resonator. Or did you neck down the piping to connect to it?

I'm still working on a way that'll do lots of silly flames. Hopefully with that setup it'll work for anyone. If it'll do it off throttle for my 3" exhaust with a full muffler, it should for you

 

[4g_jayson]

So I have LT headers if I go with 2.5” exhaust with 1 mangaflow resonator to a Meagan muffler with a 4.5” tip I would t shoot flames 🔥 not even the tiniest one ??

 

[Sabertooth^2]

Tuned right, yeah

 

[Sparda D'Mon]

Resonator isn't gonna affect it as much as the muffler and cats. Cats will just stop it happening usually. If you have a 2.5" exhaust, you must be taking only the rear bit if you have the stock resonator. Or did you neck down the piping to connect to it?

I'm still working on a way that'll do lots of silly flames. Hopefully with that setup it'll work for anyone. If it'll do it off throttle for my 3" exhaust with a full muffler, it should for you

I'll take pictures when i get home so you see. I asked the muffler shop guy to go full 2.5 and i think he overlaped the 2.5 pipe over the muffler pipe. I hope he cut it. Dont know if that makes sense. Apologies for the late reply.

 

[Sabertooth^2]

I needed a hgiher PSI actuator, and no aftermarket actuator would fit, leaving me only with the option of make one, or Chinese garbage.

So here's the new one I made using a Garett 22psi actuator and my old one. It's silly, but it works. I cut both rods, drilled the Garett one, stuck the old rod inside, and then welded it. Works great, and hopefully it lasts longer than a set of laces for my shop shoes ever does.

It's definitely a tight fit still

 

[ROAD RENEGADE]

That good Ol Canadian ingenuity. Keep up the good work!

 

[Sabertooth^2]

New headliner

Power seat wiring ran, as well as fuel pump shutoff added to the kick plate

Terracotta interior

Sound deadening all around

Restored interior panels

And a few more things to go

Soon it'll be a cushy daily that still lights up third from a roll. I've got my turbo sent off for a rebuild and hopefully upgrade as well, so maybe 28psi boost isn't where I cap it off.

 

[JustineM]

Wow, I am surprised that this build is still ongoing. Do you have any recent updates?

 

[Sabertooth^2]

It's basically just sitting while I wait to hear what's going on turbo wise. I sent it off to be rebuilt, the rebuilder put in an order for the parts, he got them, found that the company sent the wrong ones, now we're waiting to see how they want to right the situation. It may end up with a complimentary turbo upgrade, which would be neat. But then I'll need to flip my exhaust manifold, and go top mount instead to fit anything larger, as well as change my downpipe and charge piping at the least.

The power from my current turbo was plenty anyway, and I was going to daily it. But larger wouldn't hurt, as it may take away some of the overly sensitive nature of it.

 

[Sabertooth^2]

I forgot to update this.

The turbo is back in, the interior is whole, and everything is working. I need to adjust MAF tables to dial it in, as previously it was working perfectly air fuel wise as pressure was dropping up top I suspect. Now, it is rich at part throttle acceleration, but good in most cruise conditions and wide open.

To celebrate it being on the road again, I made it shiny. Not that it still looks like that after 2 weeks of field dust falling on it. But, as it sits now, it's a comfortable daily again, and quieter inside than it ever has been that I can recall. I still want to sound deaden the door skins, as well as the rear 1/4 panel behind the rear speakers. But I have bigger things on the go.

 

[Sabertooth^2]

Killed a rod bearing once again.

Whole GS driveline is for sale. Just gonna V8 swap it and leave it mild. But, the other project is the priority. This will probably sit in the back of my shop with some other stuff for a while.


EDIT: It's not and no I'm not.

 

[Hiafolks]

Dang that last pic is looking good! What did you do to make the paint look so fresh??

 

[Sabertooth^2]

Washed with soap and water. Then I cleaned the entire body with carburetor cleaner (degreases, but can also damage clear coat and paint if left to sit). Then I went at it with medium then fine polish. After that, I washed the polish off with quick detailer/wax. It took a few hours with some water breaks (very hot in the shop that day) but came out looking pretty fresh.

 

[Sabertooth^2]

The GS got some love today... It has been sitting in my driveway since July. Now it's indoors with friends at least.

I had a bunch of people offer to help push it in, but nobody who did. I ended up pulling it in with my truck and then riding mower once it was up the hill

 

[Sabertooth^2]

I guess I never updated; I got it running again this spring but it turned out to still need a replacement rod, as it was out of round. Hopefully tomorrow BC will get back to me and I can get the ball rolling. Currently it'll drive but will knock, so it only gets turned on as needed to be moved (rare)


My GT, house, Veloster, trailer, TT, and everything else life brings have really ate up a lot of time. I'd like the turn the GS back into a daily driver with an 87 octane tune. Should still be able to keep it at or around 300whp on 87 octane, so at least it'll still be quick. Plus it has that nice interior with all the sound deadening and is damn near factory fresh clean.



The ball is rolling though, and at least this should be a fairly simple job compared to everything else I have going on... Undo the exhaust, undo the charge pipe, drain the coolant, coolant hoses disconnected from the head, valve cover off, timing cover off, timing belt off, head studs undone, head off, oil pan off, windage tray off, undo the rod cap, piston and rod out, undo the rod retainer circlip, wrist pin out, swap rod, piston and rod in, rod caps, clean the deck surfaces, fresh head gasket in, head on, head studs torqued, valve cover on, time it, windage tray on, oil pan on, coolant hoses on, connect exhaust and intake, put in oil, put in coolant, start it, burp it, good to go... Yeah I've done it a couple times now.


EDIT: Was also a damaged crank when the rod came off

 

[Sabertooth^2]

2h of junkyard fun with friends ripping into an Outlander, and I have a new crankshaft for the GS

As it turns out, if you don't care much about fluids or much of anything, you can remove the engine with a crane hooked to a single bracket on the passenger side, and lift the whole unit out that way (with no AC compressor)

 

[Sabertooth^2]

So, I swapped the crank a couple weekends ago. Unfortunately, I went against my usual methods, and decided to try a main seal housing gasket that came with a seal kit, and it leaked.

So this week, I pulled the trans again found that it was the gasket which leaked, and sealed it with RTV. I'm not willing to go against my usual anymore, I'm sticking with RTV. While at it though, I opted to use a fresh rear main I had on a shelf (not that my other one was more than a week old). Well, it leaked again.

Took it apart a couple nights ago again, and found that the brand new Fel-Pro rear main seal was leaking, but all the RTV had held well.


That brings me to today. I've got a new rear main picked up, and am hoping to have a chance Sunday to stick it back together and fire it up. This time with no transmission, I want to catch any leaks before that fella has to come out again. It's eating up space on my lift, and I have other stuff I need to work on

This thing really wants to fight me in coming back to life. But it's gonna happen.

 

[Sabertooth^2]

Got it all together today..... Aaaaaaaaaand now there's a trans input shaft leak hahaha

Time to pull that trans. AGAIN.

Engine is sealed though

 

[Sabertooth^2]

Here's the input shaft seal (NOT called that when you order one, use a balance shaft seal) I removed.

Here's the balance shaft seal in place. No more leak

I'm not going to say it's fixed. But it's not pouring oil, making any bad sounds, and it makes boost.

I need to adjust the tune, as I changed stuff to make it idle rich while it was on the lift