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no pressure from clutch pedal

21K views 30 replies 8 participants last post by  SanDiegoEclipse 
#1 ·
everything was fine until i had to make a sudden stop. my foot slipped off the clutch before i had gotten the car out of gear then after two more shift the pedal went all the way down with no resistance. cant get into gear or anything. had to push the car a few blocks home. What could it be? slave and/or master cylinder?
 
#6 ·
My first thought was slave cylinder. Usually the clutch smells a little or shows some signs of slippage before it just goes. Unless it lets loose when you're beating its ass, and then you can have catastrophic clutch failure hahaha.
 
#12 ·
well this other place says everything will be fine with just the master and slave cylinder. my question is, how do they both go out at the same time? they just called and said they need to pull the transmission anyway to do the slave cylinder. ugh, if i knew that i would have ordered a lsd and had them put it in. but when they called not long ago they said that they got fluid to come out to where the line ends at the bellhousing. howd they do that yet they say i need a master and slave cylinder. I asked how did they both go out almost instanly without me noticing anything before hand. His reply was that the slave could be bad but the master will work harder until it just goes out... wtf?
 
#13 ·
The LSD install is much more involved than simply dropping the tranny. The tranny itself needs to be split, and carefully dissassembled for the LSD install. No fun.

I think honestly they don't know if its the master or slave so they are just going to replace both to cover their asses. And if they are pulling the tranny you better make sure you do a clutch while its out at least, you'll kick yourself in the ass later!!
 
#14 ·
that clutch isnt that old. maybe 20,000 miles on it. i just dont want to pay to have the transsmission pulled if i dont need to. i dont remember seeing the service manual mention anything about that much work to change the slave or master cylinders
 
#15 ·
If the price of the parts arn't that expensive, change them both as preventive maintenance. It's kind of like the timing belt, change the water pump at the same time to save on labor costs. If you don't change the water pump, 10/20 thousand miles down the road when the water pump does go, you have to pay for the same labor charges again. I.E. they have to remove the same parts for a timing belt, as the do for a water pump. But this type maintnance also applies with brakes and tires, they should be changed as pairs.

I'm not sure if this is the same case with master and slave cylinders, but...
 
#19 ·
soo i finally got time to actually get under my hoodnow that the car is back at the house and the damn slave is in the bellhousing but i dont think thats the problem. i tried to bleed the lines and no pressure. from the looks of it the bleeder valve is before the slave soo i figure i should be getting fluid atleast to there. soo im thinking bad slave. next free day i have im going to take out the master and see.
 
#20 · (Edited)
Status/Help Me



So what happened with your car??

I'm new on the forum, but I've owned my Eclipse about four years now. Tonight I was driving my car to pick up my daughter from dance class. I was traveling south east on a local road I attempted to shift my car into 2nd gear, but my clutch pedal lost all pressure and went completely to the floorboard. Once that happened I could not shift my car at all. It was a bad situation because I was stranded in the middle of the road and oncoming cars were not yielding. I called my wife and she came to assist me. In the mix we called our insurance company for a tow truck and while I was waiting I disconnected the battery, but that did nothing. I attempted to move the shifter and push on the clutch pedal, however no success. My car does start, but that is it. If any members here have some good advice I would really appreciate it. :dunno:

-T-
 
#21 ·
its a lot that could be wrong. Try bleeding the line and checking for leaks, but if that's not the case, then it maybe a bad cylinder. You could check the master cylinder but everywhere I went says if one is out then both should be changed. We have a concentric slave, inside the transmission. A ton of labor for a 150 dollar part. To tell if its the master have someone get in the car pop the hood and start hitting the clutch pedal and see if the fluid in the reservior moves, it shouldn't. There's a way to pull it out and check if you wanna pull it apart and check seals and stuff.
 
#22 ·
Clutch Issues



I feel sick right now because this seems like a major repair. This car has been a headache from the beginning. One week after I bought it there was a recall on the master brake cylinder. They replaced that and then squeaky brakes occurred, which I have had squeaky brakes ever since. I noticed my clutch was acting stiff early yesterday morning, however it did not seem like a problem. Why is there no indication light? I am so aggravated right now. My biggest worry is that they will not cover it with my power-train warranty, because I have been researching it for the past few hours and everyone has commented it is not covered. I'm not sure if that's true or not, but if it is I will never buy a Mitsubishi again. My car only has 42,524 miles on it and those miles are very easy miles. I cannot believe it is experiencing this failure so soon. Any comments?

-T-
 
#30 ·
Yes the 2006 had a recall for the Master Cylinder, and the brakes. Check your fluid but if the fluid is low than the Brake light usually comes on on the dash. The same one that is on when you have the e-brake engaged. Clutch's are not usually covered under warranty by an manufacturer not just Mitsubishi its a wear an tear item.. However just because your clutch went dead like that doesn't mean your problem is the clutch itself. It really is hard to say for sure like exec said it could be a lotta things
 
#31 · (Edited)
Status



Ok so it turns out there is a leak in the front of the transmission. Suspect push rod is broken inside the clutch master cylinder and the clutch slave cylinder is bad. Bad news it's a lot of $$$$$$$. Right now I am looking at no less than $1385 not including the clutch, if the clutch is bad it will be $1900. However, I don't think it is because of the low mileage on my car. Labor for removing the transmission is ridiculous! The dealership is not wanting to cover one single problem, however I am contacting corporate headquarters Monday. Because, it involves the transmission removal and replacement. The 100k power-train warranty should apply. Either way I have it at a local auto shop thanks to Mitsubishi wanting to charge me almost double the price. Unreal! :bash:

-T-
 
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