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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hi all,
I'm replacing my rear brake but stumble on this...
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it's metal and round not a flat head slot like in the manual ..
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I didn't fry it out because i'm afraid to break it and the rotor will stuck there..
Does anyone know what it is??
Thanks.
 

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I did my rotors myself on my GS. I’m pretty sure that it’s not a screw, and if it is, then I broke the shit out of mine, and I haven’t had any issues.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
So it doesn’t hold the rotor to anything?
My rotors are rusted so I may give them a couple hits to let them loose..
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I tried to poke it with a screw driver and feel like it's metal.
But you're right, i think that is where we make the adjustment for the hand brake...
 

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I tried to poke it with a screw driver and feel like it's metal.
But you're right, i think that is where we make the adjustment for the hand brake...
If there is a metal one, it might be the one used at the factory when the car is being assembled to hold the rotors on before the wheels go on

After that, just take it out, don’t need it anymore, prevent it from rusting in
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
You’re right.
The plug is plastic and I can pop it off after remove the rotor.
The other problem is the spring inside actually hits the wheel bearing..
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Do you know how i can push it down flush so it doesn’t hit the bearing?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I got it.
There is a metal piece looks like a “T”, I use a plier pull it up then re-align the spring and push it back down... voila ..no more no more hitting... thanks guys..:D:D:D
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I spoke too soon..
The brake rotor hits the drum and cause the dragging noise..
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Is there anyway for me to tighten up the drum so the brake rotor has more clearance without hitting it??
Does anyone have any instruction to rebuild those?
Thanks.
 

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I just did my rotors and they were stuck hard. I too thought that plug was a screw of some sort (I forget if it was my old jeep but Ive seen rotors held in place with a screw in the rotor ) but it popped right out . There are 2 screw holes in the rotors that open up to the flat surface of the axle head so you can run 2 screws through to break the rotors free. My rotors were so tight (rusted on) that I stripped all of the 6 steel bolts i bought getting all four rotors off. I was tossing the rotors so i didnt care if i stripped the rotor screw holes, those rotors were coming off!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Yeah you’re right. They are plastic nut to cover the slot for making adjustments on hand brake..
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
So i bought a rebuild drum brake kit and change the springs, metal stud but the rotor still hits the drum.. it seems like the brake line doesn't release so the drum still contacts the rotor even after i let the brake pedal goes...This is frustrating..:mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad:.. spend 3hours today but still can't figure out..
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Pedal? This is the parking brake, on the hand pull lever

and if your car is old rusty and crusty like some of ours and the parking brake wasn’t regularly used or used in a long time and you just pulled it, it’s probably stuck on now…
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
That’s a possibility so I remove the shifter console and the hand brake cable is visible..
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There is a small glove box on top that I can’t remove to make the adjustment to the cable

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I try to fry it out but it feel like there are screws hold it down. I didn’t use a lot of force cause I’m afraid I will brake it.
Do you know how to remove it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I remove the center console and adjust the cables to 7 clicks.. everything is good.. the dragging noise is dust shield is bent .. straighten it out and voila.. no noise so far..
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